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Pacific Storm and Surf Forecast
Updated: Thursday, October 6, 2022 1:39 PM
Buoys: Northern CA - Southern CA - Hawaii - Gulf of Alaska - Pacific Northwest
Buoy Forecast:
Northern CA - Southern CA - Hawaii - Gulf of Alaska - Pacific Northwest
Pacific Links:  Atmospheric Models - Buoy Data - Current Weather - Wave Models
Forecast Archives: Enter Here
A chronology of recent Mavericks Underground forecasts. Once you enter, just click on the HTML file forecast you want to review (e.g. 073199.html equals July 31, 1999). To view the maps that correspond to that forecast date, select the html file labeled 073199 maps.html
2.1 - California & 2.5 - Hawaii
Using the 'Summer' Scale
(See Swell Category Table link at bottom of page)

Probability for presence of largest swells in near-shore waters of NCal, SCal or Hawaii.    

Issued for Week of Monday 10/3 thru Sun 10/9

Swell Potential Rating Categories
5 = Good probability for 3 or more days of Significant swell
4 = Good probability for 1-2 days of Significant swell
3 = Good probability for 3 or more days of Intermediate/Advanced swell
2 = Good probability for  1-2 days of
Intermediate/Advanced swell
1 = Good probability for 3 or more days of Impulse or Windswell
0 = Low probability for 1-2 days of Impulse or Windswell   

Small NPac Swell Bound for HI & CA
One Last SPac Swell Tracking North

 

BUOY ROUNDUP
Thursday, October 6, 2022 :

  • Buoy 238 (Barbers Pt)/Buoy 239 (Lani): Seas were 3.2 ft @ 12.5 secs with swell 2.0 ft @ 11.9 secs from 208 degrees. Water temp 81.3 degs (Barbers Pt), 81.0 (Pearl Harbor 233), 80.6 (Lani 239).
  • Buoy 106 (Waimea): Seas were 3.8 ft @ 9.9 secs with swell 2.7 ft @ 8.6 secs from 188 degrees. Water temp 81.0 degs.
  • Buoy 46025 (Catalina RDG): Seas were 3.1 ft @ 13.7 secs with swell 2.0 ft @ 13.9 secs from 177 degrees. Wind west at 2-4 kts. Water temperature 68.7 degs, 68.7 (Topanga 103), 67.1 degs (Long Beach 215), 68.9 (Oceanside Offshore 045), 67.1 (Del Mar 153), 70.9 (Torrey Pines Outer 100). At Harvest Buoy (071) primary swell was 4.2 ft @ 13.7 secs from 289 degrees. At Santa Monica (028) swell was 2.1 ft @ 13.9 secs from 195 degrees. At Oceanside (045) swell was 2.3 ft @ 13.5 secs from 196 degrees. Southward at Pt Loma (191) this buoy was down.
  • Buoy 46012 (Half Moon Bay)/029 (Pt Reyes): Seas were 5.2 ft @ 13.7 secs with swell 3.2 ft @ 13.7 secs from 282 degrees and southern hemi swell 1.8 ft @ 14.0 secs from 210 degrees. Wind at buoy 46012 was northwest at 6-10 kts. Water temp 55.8 degs (Pt Reyes 029), 54.0 (Pt Reyes 46013), 59.0 (46026), 59.7 (SF Bar 142), 61.0 (Pt Santa Cruz 254) and 63.1 (Monterey Bay 46042).

See Hi-Res Buoy Dashboards (bottom of the page)

Swell Classification Guidelines

Significant: Winter - Swell 8 ft @ 14 secs or greater (11+ ft faces) for 8+ hours (greater than double overhead).
Summer
- Head high or better.
Advanced: Winter - Swell and period combination capable of generating faces 1.5 times overhead to double overhead (7-10 ft)
Summer - Chest to head high.
Intermediate/Utility Class: Winter - Swell and period combination generating faces at head high to 1.5 times overhead (4-7 ft).
Summer
- Waist to chest high.
Impulse/Windswell: Winter - Swell and period combination generating faces up to head high (1-4 ft) or anything with a period less than 11 secs.
Summer
- up to waist high swell. Also called 'Background' swell.

Surf Heights for Hawaii should be consider 'Hawaiian Scale' if period exceeds 14 secs.

PACIFIC OVERVIEW
Current Conditions
On Thursday (10/6) North and Central CA had windswell coming from the northwest at chest high and fairly lined up but a little warbled and soft but with fairly clean conditions. Protected breaks were thigh to maybe waist high and soft and crumbled but clean with light fog. At Santa Cruz surf was waist high or so and clean and soft. In Southern California/Ventura waves were thigh to waist high and lined up but crumbled and uneven with light northwest wind on it. Central Orange County had sets to head high and lined up if not closed out and clean. South Orange County's best summertime breaks had sets to head high on the peak and lined up and clean with decent form but not very long walls. North San Diego had sets at waist high and sometimes some more and lined up and clean but mostly pretty soft. Hawaii's North Shore had sets at waist to maybe chest high and lined up and fairly clean but with some warble in the water early and soft. The South Shore was waist to chest high and lined up with good form when it came and clean. The East Shore had some thigh high sets and ruffled from east-northeast trades.

See QuikCASTs for the 5 day surf overview or read below for the detailed view.

Meteorological Overview
On Thursday (10/6) California was getting minimal background southern hemi swell mixed with minimal northwest windswell. Hawaii was getting leftover getting swell from a small cutoff low that developed north-northeast of Hawaii on Sat (10/1) producing 20-21 ft seas falling south into early Sun (10/2). Looking forward a small gale tracked east through the Central South Pacific Sat-Sun (10/2) producing 28-30 ft sea over a small area aimed east. Small swell is pushing northeast and is to arrive in Hawaii over the weekend and along the US West Coast early next week. After that nothing is forecast down south. Looking north another small gale developed in the Northwestern Gulf Tues-Thurs (10/6) generating up to 22 ft seas aimed southeast. swell is radiating towards Hawaii and the US West Coast. Beyond the Northern Hemi is not indicating any real effort towards becoming productive.

See all the details below...

 

SHORT- TERM FORECAST
Current marine weather and wave analysis plus forecast conditions for the next 72 hours

North Pacific

Overview
Jetstream
On Thursday (10/6) the jetstream was ridging up into the West and Central Bering Sea then falling solidly south of the Eastern Aleutians forming a trough being fed by 140 kt winds reaching down into the Central Gulf then turning hard north with the trough fairly pinched and moving into North Canada. There was very limited support for gale development in that trough. Over the next 72 hours that trough is to become fully cutoff from the main flow still circulating in the Central Gulf with winds to 120 kts offering support for low pressure development. But most energy is to remain north up in the Bering Sea. Beyond 72 hours that cutoff low is forecast to continue circulating locked over the Central Gulf into Mon (10/10) before tapping the main jetstream energy on Tues (10/11). At that time a new trough is to start sagging south just east of the dateline and tight if not pinched being fed by 160 kts winds and tracking east with it's apex moving just 400 nmiles north of Hawaii on Thurs (10/13) perhaps offering some opportunity to produce more low pressure. And at that time the jet in the west is to sink south some becoming fully exposed south of the West Aleutians. Something to monitor.


Surface Analysis
On Thursday (10/6) swell from a gale that formed in the Northwestern Gulf is radiating towards Hawaii and California (see Another Cutoff Gulf Low below).

Over the next 72 hours remnants of the above gale is to continue circulating in the Central Gulf of Alaska possibly regenerating some on Fri PM (10/7) producing 30 kt north winds targeting Hawaii and trying to get traction on the oceans surface. On Sat AM (10/8) 30-35 kt north winds are forecast with seas building to 19 ft at 39.75N 155.5W aimed south at Hawaii. In the evening 30-35 kts north and west winds are to be wrapping around the southern quadrant of the gale with seas 18-20 ft at 36.75N 156.75W aimed at Hawaii and the US West Coast. On Sun AM (10/9) fetch is to fade to 25 kts with seas fading from 15 ft at 33N 155W targeting Hawaii and the US West Coast. The gael to fade from there. Maybe more swell is to result primarily for Hawaii. Something to monitor.

 

Another Cutoff Gulf Low
A gale was developing in the Northwestern Gulf on Tues AM (10/4) falling south from the East Aleutian Islands producing 30-35 kts northwest winds over a tiny area and seas 20 ft at 50.75N 165.5W aimed southeast. Fetch is to fall southeast in the evening at 35 kts with seas 21 ft at 48N 163.5W aimed southeast. This system is to continue over the Northwestern Gulf on Wed AM (10/5) with 30 kt northwest winds and seas 21 ft at 44N 158W aimed southeast. In the evening fetch is to be fading in coverage at 30 kts from the northwest with seas 19 ft at 43.5N 160W aimed southeast. Something to monitor for both Hawaii and the US West Coast.

Oahu: Expect swell arrival on Fri (10/7) building to 4.3 ft @ 14 secs later (6.0 ft). Swell continue Sat AM (10/8) fading from 4.8 ft @ 12 secs early (5.5 ft). Windswell continues on Sun (10/9) at 4.2 ft @ 10-11 secs and holding (4.5 ft). Swell rebuilding on Sun (10/10) at 5.0 ft @ 12 secs (6.0 ft) holding all day. Swell finally starting to fade on Mon (10/11) from 4.0 ft @ 11 secs early (4.5 ft). Swell Direction: 350 moving to 360 degrees

North CA: Expect swell arrival on Sat (10/8) at 3.3 ft @ 13 secs early (4.0 ft). Swell fading Sun (10/9) fading from 2.2 ft @ 11-12 secs (2.5 ft). Dribbles on Mon (10/10) fading from 1.5 ft @ 10 secs (1.5 ft). Swell Direction: 296-300 degrees

 

North Pacific Animations: Jetstream - Surface Pressure/Wind - Sea Height - Surf Height

 

Tropical Update
No tropical systems of interest are being monitored at this time.

California Nearshore Forecast

  • Fri AM (10/7) northwest winds to be 15 kts for Cape Mendocino and 10 kts for Bodega Bay southward rebuilding to 15 kts south of Monterey Bay and holding all day. Limited north windswell for exposed breaks later.
  • Sat AM (10/8) northwest winds to be 10-15 kts for Cape Mendocino and 10 kts for Bodega Bay southward to Pt Conception and holding all day. Limited north windswell for exposed breaks early.
  • Sun AM (10/9) northwest winds to be 5 kts for all of North and Central CA holding all day maybe building to 15 kts for Cape Mendocino later. No windswell production forecast.
  • Mon (10/10) northwest winds to be 5-10 kts early for all of North and Central CA holding all day but possibly building to 20-25 kts off the coast of the CA-OR border. Possible building windswell later.
  • Tues (10/11) northwest winds are forecast at 20-25 kts for Cape Mendocino but light northwest at 5 kts south of there holding all day but fading at Cape Mendocino to 15 kts in the afternoon. Limited northwest windswell.
  • Wed (10/12) northwest winds to be 5-10 kts for North and Central CA early maybe building to near 15 kts later.
  • Thurs (10/13) northwest winds to start building at 15 kts for all of North and Central CA early and solidifying and pushing near 20 kts for Central CA south of Monterey Bay in the afternoon.

Total snow accumulation for the next 10 days respectively for Squaw Valley, Sugar Bowl, Kirkwood and Mammoth are projected at 0, 0, 0, and 0 inches.

Freezing level for the Tioga Pass Road is 12,5000 ft today and is to fall to 10.500 ft 10/10-10/13, then rebuilding back to 12,500 ft beyond.

- - -

Tioga Pass/Pacific Crest Trail intersection forecast: Temps - Freeze Level
More locations here (scroll down to 'Resort Snow Forecasts>Central CA or North CA Caltrans & Backcountry')

Snow Models: http://www.stormsurf.com/mdls/menu_snow.html (Scroll down for Resort specific forecasts).

 

South Pacific

Overview
Surface Analysis
Swell from a gale that previously crossed the South Pacific is tracking northeast (see South Central Pacific Gale below).

Over the next 72 hours no swell producing weather systems of interest are forecast.

 

South Central Pacific Gale
On Fri PM (9/30) a small gale developed under New Zealand with 35-40 kt west winds and seas 28 ft over a small area aimed east at 54S 166E aimed east. On Sat AM (10/1) fetch built some at 35-40 kts tracking east with seas 29 ft at 53S 175W aimed east. In the evening fetch continued east over the Central South Pacific at 35-45 kts from the southwest with seas 31 ft over a tiny area at 54.5S 158.5W aimed east. On Sun AM (10/2) southwest winds were 40 kts with seas 31 ft at 51.5S 146.5W aimed east. Fetch is to fade in the evening from 30-35 kts from the southwest with seas fading from 27 ft at 50S 138.5W aimed northeast. Low odds of swell production. Something to monitor.

Hawaii: Small swell to arrive on Sat (10/8) building to 1.4 ft @ 16-17 secs later (2.0-2.5 ft). Swell peaking on Sun AM (10/9) at 1.7 ft @ 15-16 secs (2.5 ft). Swell fading on Mon AM (10/10) from 1.5 ft @ 14-15 secs (2.0-2.5 ft). Dribbles on Tues AM (10/11) fading from 1.2 ft @ 13-14 secs (1.5 ft). Swell Direction: 201 degrees

Southern CA: Expect swell arrival on Mon (10/10) building to 1.6 ft @ 17-18 secs later (2.5 ft). Swell building on Tues (10/11) to 2.1 ft @ 15-16 secs (3.0-3.5 ft). Swell fading some on Wed (10/12) from 2.0 ft @ 14-15 secs (3.0 ft). Dribbles on Thurs (10/13) fading from 1.7 ft @ 13-14 secs early (2.0-2.5 ft). Swell Direction: 202 degrees

North CA: Southern CA: Expect swell arrival on Mon (10/10) building to 1.6 ft @ 17-18 secs later (2.5 ft). Swell building on Tues (10/11) to 2.1 ft @ 16-17 secs (3.0-3.5 ft). Swell fading some on Wed (10/12) from 2.0 ft @ 14-15 secs (3.0 ft). Dribbles on Thurs (10/13) fading from 1.8 ft @ 13-14 secs early (2.0-2.5 ft). Swell Direction: 202 degrees

 

South Pacific Animations: Jetstream - Surface Pressure/Wind - Sea Height - Surf Height

 

QuikCAST's

 

LONG-TERM FORECAST
Marine weather and forecast conditions 3-10 days into the future

North Pacific

Beyond 72 hours perhaps another small and weak low pressure system is to develop in a trough north of Hawaii on Thurs (10/13) producing 19 ft seas aimed south. But that's a long way from actually happening. Something to monitor.

 

South Pacific

Beyond 72 hours no clear swell producing weather systems are forecast.

 

MJO/ENSO Forecast

 

Upwelling Phase Underway
Models Suggesting this to be the Final La Nina Surge
Cool subsurface water volume peaked under the equatorial Pacific on 10/15/21, faded in May and June 2022, but is stating to rebuild in late July. A Kelvin Wave traversed the equatorial Pacific May-June, but was discharged by late July. The SOI appears to be past its peak. La Nina conditions are projected reinforcing in Nino3.4 in Fall then fading by Winter turning neutral. Overall cool water volume over the entire equatorial Pacific is to be fading steadily from here forward. The outlook is turning more optimistic.

MJO/ENSO Discussion
The Madden Julian Oscillation (MJO) is a periodic weather cycle that tracks east along the equator circumnavigating the globe. It is characterized in it's Inactive Phase by enhanced trade winds and dry weather over the part of the equator it is in control of, and in it's Active Phase by slackening if not an outright reversing trade winds while enhancing precipitation. The oscillation occurs in roughly 20-30 day cycles (Inactive for 20-30 days, then Active for 20-30 days) over any single location on the planet, though most noticeable in the Pacific. During the Active Phase in the Pacific the MJO tends to support the formation of stronger and longer lasting gales resulting in enhanced potential for the formation of swell producing storms. Prolonged and consecutive Active MJO Phases in the Pacific help support the formation of El Nino. During the Inactive Phase the jet stream tends to split resulting in high pressure and less potential for swell producing storm development. Wind anomalies in the Kelvin Wave Generation Area (KWGA) are key for understanding what Phase the MJO is in over the Pacific. The KWGA is located on the equator from 135E-170W and 5 degs north and south (or on the equator from New Guinea east to the dateline). West wind anomalies in the KWGA suggest the Active Phase of the MJO in the Pacific, and east anomalies suggests the Inactive Phase. In turn the Active Phase strengthens and the Inactive Phase weakens the jetstream, which in turn enhances or dampens storm production respectively in the Pacific.And the El Nino/La Nino cycle (collectively know as ENSO - El Nino Southern Oscillation) is a less frequent (about once every 7 years) but more impactful cycle that affects world wide weather. Specifically, strong El Nino events promote storm production in the Pacific while La Nina events suppress storm production. These therefore have a significant impact on the production of swell and surf. The paragraphs below analyze the state of the MJO and ENSO in the Pacific and provide forecasts for upcoming activity (or inactivity depending on the state and interaction of these two oscillations).

Overview: In 2019 warm equatorial waters were fading, and by August a tongue of cool water was tracking west on the equator from Ecuador over the Galapagos reaching to a point nearly south of Hawaii. A bit of a recovery tried to occur during Fall of 2019, with weak warm water building in the Nino 1.2 region, but cool water held in a pool off Peru. By April 2020 a cool pool was starting to build, forming a well defined cool tongue that evolved into La Nina, with it fully developing through July 2020. A slow dissolving of La Nina started in March 2021 with 2 Kelvin Waves sweeping east and arriving over the Galapagos in June. Weak warming set up over the equator with no cool waters present. NOAA declared La Nina dead. But cold water returned in July 2021 and a second pulse of La Nina developed through the Winter of 2022 and is continuing today, though possibly weaker with its foundation appearing to be in decline.

LONG-RANGE PACIFIC STORM AND SWELL GENERATION POTENTIAL FORECAST
Fall/Winter 2022 = 4.0 (California & Hawaii)
Rating based on a 1-10 scale: 1 being the lowest (small and infrequent surf conditions), 5 being normal/average, and 10 being extraordinary (frequent events of large, long period swells)

Rationale: It was assumed that the moderate La Nina from the Winter of 2020/2021 was on the wane and that a return to neutral ENSO state would set up over the Pacific Basin through the summer of 2021. But La Nina made a strong return by the end of Sept much like what the CFS model suggested would happen and a full double dip pattern took hold through the Winter of 21/22. But a quick fade is forecast as we move into late December 2022 with the CFS predicting a return to a neutral wind anomaly pattern and the low pressure bias making headway in to the KWGA in early Jan. Still it will take some time for the atmosphere to fully respond, resulting in a less than normal swell production forecast especially for Fall into early Winter 2022. But by later in Jan or early Feb 2023 a return to a more normal pattern might take hold. As a result a significantly reduced number of storm days and storm intensity is expected Oct 22-Jan 23, resulting in a below normal level of swells, with swell being below normal duration and period. But by Feb 2023, the number of storm days, intensity and duration of those storms should start improving as La Nina fades out. The net result is we're currently thinking a near normal number of swells with normal size and duration is to result, but all focused sometime after Jan 2023. The swell pattern will be below normal before Jan and above normal after Jan 23 with the average of the two being 'normal'. Of course this is all highly speculative at this early date.

KWGA/Equatorial Surface Wind Analysis (KWGA - Kelvin Wave Generation Area - The area 5 degrees north and south of the equator from 170W to 135E)
Analysis (TAO Buoys): As of (10/5) 5 day average winds were strong from the east over the Eastern equatorial Pacific and strong east over the Central Pacific and strong east over the KWGA. Anomalies were neutral over the East equatorial Pacific and modest east over the Central Pacific and moderate east over the KWGA. (Note: These are 5 day average winds, versus realtime, so they lag what is happening today (by about 2.5 days).
1 Week Forecast (GFS Model): (10/6) Moderate east anomalies were filling the KWGA today. The 7 day forecast calls for east anomalies starting to fade while tracking east on 10/7 and then mostly east of the dateline 10/10 only to build back at near strong status on the dateline on the last day of the model run on 10/13. The 2 week GFS 925 mb wind anomaly chart depicts east anomalies fading some then pulsing in the KWGA on Thurs (10/13) before fading on 10/17 with west anomalies in the far KWGA on 10/21 building almost filling the KWGA at the end of the model run on 10/22.

Kelvin Wave Generation Area wind monitoring model: West and East

MJO/WWB/Wind Projections:  
OLR Models: (10/5) A neutral MJO signal was indicated today over the KWGA. The statistical model indicates a weak Active MJO signal starting to develop over the far West KWGA on day 5 of the model run building and filling the KWGA on days 10 and 15 of the model run. The dynamic model suggests the same thing but the signal not nearly as strong on day 10 fading to near neutral on day 15.
Phase Diagrams 2 week forecast (ECMF and GEFS): (10/6) The statistical model depicts the Active signal was very weak over the west Maritime Continent and is slowly track east while building to moderate strength over the far West Pacific 15 days out. The dynamic model suggest the same thing.
40 day Upper Level Model (assumed to be a statistical mode and 1 week ahead of what is occurring at the surface): (10/6) A moderate Inactive MJO signal (dry air) was moving inland over Ecuador today. The forecast depicts the Inactive Phase no longer in the Pacific on 10/12. A modest Active Phase (wet air) is to push east and into the KWGA starting 10/11 and then slowly easing east filling the Pacific 10/16 eventually moving into Ecuador 11/10. A modest Inactive Phase of the MJO is to start pushing east over the KWGA on 10/31 filling the KWGA at the end of the model run 11/15.
4 Week CFS Model (850 mb wind): (10/5)
A weak Inactive signal was indicated today trying to push into the KWGA with moderate east anomalies filling the KWGA. The forecast calls for the Inactive Phase gone with east anomalies fading to weak strength on 10/9 then rebuilding on 10/11 holding for 2 days then fading. On 10/17 a weak Active Phase of the MJO is to start pushing through the KWGA with west anomalies reaching to 150E on 10/19, then fading fast with east anomalies rebuilding and in control at modest strength at the end of the model run on 11/2.
3 Month CFS Model (850 mb wind):
(10/6) - using the 5th ensemble member - the mean of the 4 individual members which are all from the 00Z run - 1 run per day):
Today east anomalies were over the KWGA with the Inactive Phase of the MJO fading from the KWGA. Moderate east anomalies are forecast holding in the KWGA through 10/20. But in the west a coherent Active Phase of the MJO is to start pushing into the KWGA in earnest on 10/8 expanding coverage and filling it by 10/17 with west anomalies building in behind expanding east from Maritime Continent to the dateline on 10/21 and filling in more beyond. This would be a huge change if it develops as forecast. The key date is 10/31 for the demise of east anomalies and presumably La Nina. The Active Phase is to fade on 12/17 with a weak Inactive Phase of the MJO following starting 10/31 through the end of the model run on 1/3/2023 but with weak west anomalies in control the whole time. The low pass filter indicates a high pressure bias with 2 contour lines centered at 180W with its western perimeter at 150E today. The second contour is to hold into October then collapse on 12/25 with the western edge of the high pressure bias retrograding west to 145E at 10/28 then starting to ease east and collapsing on 12/25 and gone beyond. A broad double contour low pressure bias is established centered over the West Maritime Continent at 90E with it's leading edge at 125E today but is forecast retrograding to 123E on 10/18 then starting to ease east to 145E at the end of the model run. Of note, east anomalies which are and have been centered at 180W and are to continue to have some solid influence over the KWGA into early Oct, then dissipate completely by 10/31 with west anomalies taking over the KWGA beyond. And the High Pressure Bias is dissipate in late Dev. This would be a huge step forward, if it develops.

CFSv2 3 month forecast for 850 mb winds, MJO, Rossby etc - Alternate link

Subsurface Waters Temps
TAO Array: (10/6) Today in the far West Pacific the 29 degree isotherm was gone, previously at 171E. The 28 deg isotherm line was steady at 175E. The 26 degree isotherm was at 150W today, previously at 145W. The 24 deg isotherm had backtracked from Ecuador to 133W but was easing east from 130W to 118W today. Anomaly wise, warm anomalies +2 deg C were in a pocket in the far West Pacific down 150m with it's leading edge easing east to 150W. A pocket of cool anomalies at -2 degs C were centered at 110W and filling the area from 155W and points east of there but they appear to be easing east, fading and losing density. The hi-res GODAS animation posted 9/30 indicates the same broad area of warm anomalies in the west pushing east to 150W and far warmer. A cool pocket was filling the area east of 150W and reaching the surface and far cooler. The GODAS animation appears to be 1 week behind the TAO data but also is more detailed and accurately modeled.
Sea Level Anomalies: (9/30) Sea heights were stable but negative over the East Equatorial Pacific. A broad pocket of positive anomalies were over the equator in the far West Pacific and starting to move east reaching to 150W. A pocket of negative anomalies were covering from Ecuador to 150W with a previous broad core at -15 cms now repositioned east at 110W with -10 cm anomalies holding from the Galapagos to 140W. Per the Upper Ocean Heat Anomaly Histogram cool anomalies were positioned in the Central Equatorial Pacific between 155W to Ecuador and easing east. It is already longer in duration than the previous cool pulse. If something doesn't change soon, La Nina will last through the Winter and the models will all be wrong.

Surface Water Temps
The more warm water in the equatorial East Pacific means more storm production in the North Pacific during winter months (roughly speaking). Cold water in that area has a dampening effect. Regardless of what the atmospheric models and surface winds suggest, actual water temperatures are a ground-truth indicator of what is occurring in the ocean. All data is from blended infrared and microwave sensors.
Satellite Imagery
Hi-res Nino1.2 & 3.4 Qualitative Analysis: (10/5) The latest images depict a broad generic pool of cool water extending west from Chile and Peru to the dateline and filling well south of the equator. A pocket of very cool water was erupting between Ecuador to 115W. An area of warm water was present on the equator from Ecuador west to 140W but mostly just north of the equator starting at 2N. A weak area of warm water was present north of the equator (15 deg N) extending off mainland Mexico to 145W. Overall this indicates the late stages of La Nina.
Hi-res 7 day Trend (10/5): Mostly warming water is on the equator in a thin string from Ecuador to 125W. The trend was towards warming.
Hi-res Overview: (10/5) Persistent cool waters cover a large area from Ecuador to 160E on and south of the equator from South America down at 20S with the coolest waters between 80W to 120W on the equator. Warmer than normal waters were on the equator in the east aligned in a thin stream from Ecuador to 110W starting 3 degrees north of the equator. La Nina remains in control over the East Equatorial Pacific and the density and intensity of the cooling appears to be building some on the equator with warm water from a previous Kelvin Wave breaking up over the East equatorial Pacific.
Nino1.2 Daily CDAS Index Temps: (10/6) (These temps are biased high by about 0.2 degs compared to official sources). Today's temps were rising slightly at -1.299 after falling to -1.498 degs on 9/21 and had been falling since 9/14 after being in the -1.0 range since 7/29. Coral Reef indicates temps at -1.791 degs and steady the past 3 days but rising from a low of -2.1 degs on 9/28. Temp were down on 7/20 to -1.6 degs. Previously temps were stable near -1.4 degrees 6/12 through 7/27. Peaks in that time frame were -1.189 (7/7), -1.534 (7/5). Previously temps were at -1.822 on 6/9 after being up to -1.506 (5/21) and that after hovering around -2.0 degs since 4/21/22. Prior to that temps were fading after peaking at +0.760 on 3/18. Temps had been moving upwards since 2/20, and beat a previous high of -0.650 degs on 1/9 and that after being down at -1.871 on 1/3/22 and -1.954 on 12/18/21, the lowest this year so far. Previously temps dropped on 11/24/21 at -1.700, the lowest in months after previously toggling steady at about -0.6 degs from mid Aug to Oct 6, then falling from there. That year temps bottomed out at -2.138 on 8/13/20. The longterm trend has been steadily downward.
Nino 3.4 Daily CDAS Index Temps:
(10/6) (These temps are biased high by about 0.2 degs). Today's temps were rising slightly at -0.811 after peaking at -0.819 on 9/22 and have been in the -1.0 range since 8/16. Coral Reef indicates temps at -0.802 degs and steady the past few days. Temps had fallen since 7/15 reaching La Nina threshold on 7/27 after being more or less steady the previous 3 weeks peaking at -0.25 on 7/14 and -0.275 on 7/5. Previously temps had been on an upward trend since 5/15/22 rising to -0.414 degs (6/19) and -0.493 on 6/9, the first reading above La Nina threshold values since Sept 2021. Temps were down to -0.929 (5/2/22) and that after rising to a peak at -0.704 on 3/27 and had been on a gentle rising trend since falling to -1.012 on 3/8. Previously temps were rising slightly to -0.505 on 2/2 and that after reaching a peak low of -1.096 on 1/3/22 beating the previous low of -1.080 on 11/2/21, the lowest in a year. Prior to that temps had been in a freefall starting from the -0.175 range in early Sept/21. Before that temps peaked up at 7/1/21 +0.332, the highest in a year. Temps previously had been steady near -0.222 since early March 2021. Temps bottomed out at -1.654 on 11/3/2020.

Click for Full Sized Image Click for Full Sized Image

CFSV2 Forecast for Nino3.4 Sea Surface Temp (SST) Anomalies & Current SST Anomalies

SST Anomaly Projections
CFSv2 Uncorrected Data
Previous - Temps rose in early Nov 2020 after bottoming out at -1.25 degs, up to -0.01 degs in mid-June 2021 then fading to -1.05 degs in mid-Nov then rebuilding to -0.7 in mid Feb 2022 then fading to -1.1 degs in May before starting an upward climb peaking in mid-June at -0.65 degs and mid July at -0.55 degs. A steady decline set in after that falling to -1.00 degs in Aug and earl Sept.
Forecast (10/6) - Temps are to be falling from about -1.0 degs in Sept to -1.25 degs mid-Oct then slowly rising in Nov before starting a quick rise in Dec and reaching above the La Nina threshold in Feb 2023 and up to +0.45 degs in June and heading up from there presumably. This model suggests we are going to steadily transition towards ENSO neutral in Dec. The PDF Corrected forecast suggests temps bottoming out at -1.10 in mid Oct and are to slowly start creeping up in Nov and Dec then starting a steep upward climb from -0.80 degs in Jan rising above La Nina threshold in Feb and rising from there forward to +0.40 degs in April/May. According to this version of the model we will hold in weak La Nina conditions through Fall before starting a trend towards neutrality in Dec with momentum towards El Nino in Spring. The surface temp coverage model suggests a temps holding steady through Nov. then a steady erosion of the coldest waters south of Nino3.4 (down at 20S) is to begin. By Dec a clear discharge of La Nina is to begin with near neutral temps prevailing over the entire equatorial Pacific and turning fully neutral in Feb and beyond. The greater equatorial Pacific cool signature looks to hold through mid-Oct then quickly dissolving beyond.
IRI Consensus Plume: The September 19, 2022 Plume depicts temps are -0.957 degs today. Temps to hold in Oct at -0.925 then are to warm to the La Nina threshold at -0.658 in Dec and -0.445 in Jan rising to +0.172 in May. This model suggests a continuation of minimal La Nina temps through early Dec then transitioning to ENSO neutral. This model is in line with the CFS model.
See chart here - link.

Atmospheric Coupling (Indicating the presence of El Nino in the atmosphere driven by the ocean):
Southern Oscillation Index (SOI) (negative is good, positive bad - all but the Daily Index was a lagging indicator):
Today (10/8) the Daily Index was falling at +25.46 rising hard at . Previous peaks were +37.19 (10/5), +33.57 (5/24), +40.77 (5/10), +31.44 (4/27), +31.80 (4/6), +27.33 (1/31) and +46.71 (12/26). The trend has been solidly positive. Previous other notable peaks were +30.98 (11/26/21), +36.90 (9/28), +27.75 ( 9/13) and +37.86 (7/15).
The 30 day average was rising at +19.73 after peaking at +19.66 on 9/28. It was down to +6.89 on 7/29. It peaked at +20.34 (5/12) the highest in a year and beating last years high of +19.51 (1/14).
The 90 day average was rising slightly at +12.72 previously at +12.92 on 8/11 and that after peaking at +18.40 (7/2) beating it's previous peak of +16.86 (5/31), the highest in a year. It previously peaked at +9.80 (9/21) after falling to it's lowest point in a year at +1.06 (6/9). The 90 day average peaked at +15.75 (2/23/21 - clearly indicative of La Nina then). This index is a lagging indicator but suggest La Nina is returning.

Pacific Decadal Oscillation
The PDO theoretically turned from a 16 year negative run (Jan 98-Feb 2014) in early 2014 and was positive till Dec 2019, but has been negative ever since, driven by recent La Nina conditions. In May-July 2021 it was the most negative its been in the -1.80 to -2.04 range since Sept 2012 (-2.99) and then fell to -3.16 in Oct 2021 (the lowest since July 1933) then settled at -2.72 in Nov and Dec 2021. Looking at the long term record, it seems likely we are still in the Cool Phase of the PDO (La Nina 'like') with no signs of moving to the positive/warm phase (El Nino 'like').

See imagery in the ENSO Powertool 


Powerlines Jeff Clark Inside Mavericks

Local Interest
Stormsurf Video Surf Forecast for this week. See it Here
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NBC News - Climate Change and Surfing: https://www.nbcnews.com/mach/science/climate-change-good-surfing-other-sports-not-so-much-ncna1017131

Mavericks & Stormsurf on HBO Sports with Bryant Gumbel https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=luQSYf5sKjQ

Pieces Featuring Stormsurf:
http://www.bloomberg.com/video/how-to-predict-the-best-surfing-waves-EsNiR~0xR5yXGOlOq2MqfA.html
http://www.cbsnews.com/videos/surfs-up-for-mavericks-invitational-in-calif/

Time Zone Converter By popular demand we've built and easy to use time convert that transposes GMT time to whatever time zone you are located. It's ion left hand column on every page on the site near the link to the swell calculator.

Surf Height-Swell Height Correlation Table

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