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Pacific Storm and Surf Forecast
Updated: Tuesday, July 30, 2024 12:47 PM
Buoys: Northern CA - Southern CA - Hawaii - Gulf of Alaska - Pacific Northwest
Buoy Forecast:
Northern CA - Southern CA - Hawaii - Gulf of Alaska - Pacific Northwest
Pacific Links:  Atmospheric Models - Buoy Data - Current Weather - Wave Models
Forecast Archives: Enter Here
A chronology of recent Mavericks Underground forecasts. Once you enter, just click on the HTML file forecast you want to review (e.g. 073199.html equals July 31, 1999). To view the maps that correspond to that forecast date, select the html file labeled 073199 maps.html
1.0 - California & 2.2 - Hawaii
Using the 'Summer' Scale
(See Swell Category Table link at bottom of page)

Probability for presence of largest swells in near-shore waters of NCal, SCal or Hawaii.    
Issued for Week of Monday 7/29 thru Sun 8/4
Swell Potential Rating Categories
5 = Good probability for 3 or more days of Significant swell
4 = Good probability for 1-2 days of Significant swell
3 = Good probability for 3 or more days of Intermediate/Advanced swell
2 = Good probability for  1-2 days of
Intermediate/Advanced swell
1 = Good probability for 3 or more days of Impulse or Windswell
0 = Low probability for 1-2 days of Impulse or Windswell   

Olympic Swell Moving Towards HI
Models Suggest Stronger Gale in S. Central Pacific Beyond

BUOY ROUNDUP
Tuesday, July 30, 2024 :

  • Buoy 239 (Lani)/Buoy 238 (Barbers Pt): Seas were 2.9 ft @ 11.8 secs with swell 0.8 ft @ 16.8 secs from 204 degrees. Water temp 79.5 (Barbers Pt), 79.5 (Pearl Harbor 233), 79.3 (Lani 239).
  • Buoy 187 (Pauwela): Seas were 5.6 ft @ 7.7 secs with swell 4.4 ft @ 6.5 secs from 54 degrees. Water temp 78.3 degs
  • Buoy 106 (Waimea)/Buoy 202 (Hanalei): Seas were 4.1 ft @ 7.7 secs with swell 3.0 ft @ 7.5 secs from 30 degrees. Water temp 78.8 degs
  • Buoy 46025 (Catalina RDG): Seas were 3.1 ft @ 14.7 secs with swell 1.5 ft @ 13.6 secs from 140 degrees. Wind northeast at 2-4 kts. Water temperature 65.5 degs, 54.3 (Harvest 071), 67.3 (Topanga 103), 61.2 (Long Beach 215), 68.7 (Oceanside Offshore 045), 69.6 (Del Mar 153), 70.2 (Torrey Pines Outer 100). At Harvest Buoy (071) primary swell was 1.6 ft @ 13.7 secs from 186 degrees. At E. Santa Barbara (46053) swell was 2.1 ft @ 6.0 secs from 266 degrees. At Santa Monica (028) swell was 1.3 ft @ 14.5 secs from 205 degrees. At Oceanside (045) swell was 1.7 ft @ 13.6 secs from 188 degrees. Southward at Pt Loma (191) swell was 1.7 ft @ 13.7 secs from 189 degrees. Water temperature was 64.0 degrees (Imperial Beach).
  • Buoy 029 (Pt Reyes)/Buoy 157 (Pt Sur): Seas were 3.2 ft @ 14.3 secs with southern hemi swell 1.7 ft @ 14.7 secs from 188 degrees. Wind west at 2 kts (Bodega Bay 46013) and NA (Half Moon Bay 1801583) and SSW at 2 kts (Monterey Bay (46092). Water temp 55.0 (Bodega Bay 46013), 52.7 degs (Pt Reyes 029), 58.5 (San Francisco 46026), 59.4 (SF Bar 142), NA (Half Moon Bay 1801583) and 56.7 (Monterey Bay 46092).

See Hi-Res Buoy Dashboards (bottom of the page)

Swell Classification Guidelines

Significant: Winter - Swell 8 ft @ 14 secs or greater (11+ ft faces) for 8+ hours (greater than double overhead).
Summer
- Head high or better.
Advanced: Winter - Swell and period combination capable of generating faces 1.5 times overhead to double overhead (7-10 ft)
Summer - Chest to head high.
Intermediate/Utility Class: Winter - Swell and period combination generating faces at head high to 1.5 times overhead (4-7 ft).
Summer
- Waist to chest high.
Impulse/Windswell: Winter - Swell and period combination generating faces up to head high (1-4 ft) or anything with a period less than 11 secs.
Summer
- up to waist high swell. Also called 'Background' swell.

Surf Heights for Hawaii should be consider 'Hawaiian Scale' if period exceeds 14 secs.

PACIFIC OVERVIEW
Current Conditions
On Tuesday (7/30) in North and Central CA waves were flat to knee high and heavily warbled from modest southwest wind and not rideable. Protected breaks were flat to knee high and lightly warbled but with clean surface conditions and low fog. At Santa Cruz surf was flat to rarely knee high and clean and soft and inconsistent with fog early. In Southern California/Ventura waves were flat to knee high and clean and soft and fogged in early. Central Orange County had sets at waist to chest high and lined up but soft and fairly clean with just a slight onshore wind early and clear. South Orange County's best summertime breaks had set waves at chest to head high and lined up with decent form but soft with clean conditions. North San Diego had sets at thigh to waist high and mushed and weak but clean earl. Oahu's North Shore was flat and clean early. The South Shore had a few thigh high sets and soft and clean early. The East Shore was getting east windswell at waist high and chopped from moderate east trades.

See QuikCASTs for the 5 day surf overview or read below for the detailed view.

Meteorological Overview
On Tuesday (7/30) minimal background swell was hitting California from a gale that formed in the far Southeast Pacific on Wed (7/17) with 28 ft seas aimed east mainly targeting only Chile. Beyond a a small local gale developed southwest of Tahiti Sun (7/28) with seas to 28 ft aimed north tracking east and southeast into Tues (7/30) with seas building to 35 ft over a small area hitting the Olympic Games arena now with some energy expected to reach Hawaii and the US mainland. Beyond there is a suggestions of some sort of gale developing over the South Central Pacific Fri-Sat (8/3) with up to 30 ft seas aimed aimed northeast into Mon (8/5). And now secondary energy is forecast building over the Southeast Pacific Mon-Tues (8/6) with 36 ft seas aimed northeast. But the models remain unstable and wavering as to the exact details. At least there is some hope.

See all the details below...

 

SHORT- TERM FORECAST
Current marine weather and wave analysis plus forecast conditions for the next 72 hours

North Pacific

Overview
Surface Analysis
On Tuesday (7/30) no swell was in the water or being produced.

Over the next 72 hours no swell producing weather systems of interest are forecast.

 

North Pacific Animations: Jetstream - Surface Pressure/Wind - Sea Height - Surf Height

 

Tropical Update
No tropical systems of interest were being tracked. The GFS model suggest some sort of tropical system developing 800 nmiles south-southeast of Southern CA on Fri (8/2) building while tracking west-northwest then stalling while drifting north later Sun (8/4) and moving into the North CA swell window continuing on a slow northwest track from there into Tues (8/6) at hurricane strength. Something to monitor.

California Nearshore Forecast
(North CA is defined as the area north of the Golden Gate - Central CA from Pt Conception to the Golden Gate, and Southern CA everywhere south of Pt Conception).

  • Wed AM (7/31) northwest winds are forecast at 10-15 kts for North and Central CA early. In the afternoon northwest winds to be 10-15 kts for North CA and 10-15 kts for Central CA over a shallow area. No real windswell expected.
  • Thurs AM (8/1) northwest winds to be 10+ kts for North CA and 10-15 kts for Central CA early. More of the same in the afternoon. No windswell of interest forecast.
  • Fri AM (8/2) northwest winds to be 10-15 kts for North CA and 15 kts south of Monterey Bay early. In the afternoon northwest winds to be 15 kts for North CA and 15+ kts for Central CA. Minimal raw windchop developing later.
  • Sat AM (8/3) northwest winds are forecast at 15-20 kts for North CA and 10-15 kts for Central CA early. In the afternoon northwest winds are forecast at 15 kts steady over building area. Minimal short period windswell possible.
  • Sun AM (8/4) northwest winds fade to 10+ kts for all of North and Central CA early. No change in the afternoon. No meaningful windswell forecast.
  • Mon AM (8/5) northwest winds to be 10 kts for North CA early and up to 15 kts in pockets south of Monterey Bay. In the afternoon northwest winds to be 10-15 kts for both North and Central CA. No windswell forecast.
  • Tues AM (8/6) northwest winds build to 15-20 kts for North CA and 10-15 kts for Central CA early. Minimal odds for windswell production.

Total snow accumulation for the next 10 days respectively for Squaw Valley, Sugar Bowl, Kirkwood and Mammoth are projected at 0, 0, 0 and 0 inches.

Temperatures for the intersection of Tioga Pass Road and the John Muir Trail (Toulomne Meadows - 8700 ft): Freeze Level 14,000 ft or greater for the entire 10 day forecast period. Temps at the intersection 55-60 degrees through Wed (7/31) then 60-70 degrees through Tues (8/6) before fading to 55-60 degrees beyond.

- - -

Tioga Pass/Pacific Crest Trail intersection forecast: Temps - Freeze Level
More locations here (scroll down to 'Resort Snow Forecasts>Central CA or North CA Caltrans & Backcountry')

Snow Models: http://www.stormsurf.com/mdls/menu_snow.html (Scroll down for Resort specific forecasts).

 

South Pacific

Overview
Jetstream
On Tuesday AM (7/30) the southern branch of the jet was weak with winds 60-80 kts tracking east between 60-65S and but trying to lift weakly northeast over the Central South Pacific but not strong enough to support gale formation. Over the next 72 hours a very weak trough is to continue over the Central South Pacific but offering nothing until Thurs (8/1) when a new pulse of wind energy gets infused into the jet south of New Zealand forming a legit trough being fed with 140 kts winds starting to offering limited support for gale formation. Beyond 72 hours starting Sat (8/3) that trough is to slowly build southeast of New Zealand with winds lifting northeast at 120-140 kts offering limited support for gale formation before weakening into Sun (8/4).

Surface Analysis
On Tuesday (7/30) background swell from a small gale that developed in the far Southeast Pacific continued weakly limping into CA but of no real interest.

Over the next 72 hours swell from an extratropical/cutoff gale that developed south of Tahiti was hitting the Olympic venue and weakly bound for Hawaii but not the US West Coast (see Olympic Gale below).

 

Olympic Gale
A small gale was developing in the Olympic swell window Sun AM (7/28) southwest of Tahiti with winds 40-45 kts over a tiny area and seas building from 27 ft at 27S 162.5W aimed north trying to produce some swell. In the evening south winds were 45 kts with seas 26 ft at 27.75S 158.5W or 769 nmiles southwest of Tahiti on the 221 degree path. On Mon AM (7/29) the gale was falling east-southeast with south winds 50 kts and seas 31 ft at 28S 153.75W or 626 nmiles south of Tahiti on the 198.7 degree path. The gale continued on it's east-southeast track in the evening with 45-50 kt south wind and seas 35 ft at 29.5S 149W aimed north or 733 nmiles out on the 197.8 deg path. On Tues AM (7/30) the gale is to be fading with 40 kt south winds and seas fading from 23 ft at 31S 148W or 595 nmiles out on the 194 degree path. The gale to evaporate after that. Unrefined local swell is to possible result for the Olympic venue and up into Hawaii.

Tahiti: Expect swell to build on Tues (7/30) at 10.3 ft @ 13 secs later (13.5 ft). Wind southwest 20-25 kts all day. Swell holds all day Wed (7/31) at 9.8 ft @ 12-13 secs (12 ft) then starts fading. Wind south 15+ kts all day. Residuals Thurs AM (8/1) fading from 7.6 ft @ 12 secs (9.0 ft). Wind southeast 10+ kts. Swell Direction: 240 moving to 195 degrees.

Oahu: Expect swell arrival on Wed (7/31) building to 1.2 ft @ 14-15 secs later (1.5-2.0 ft). Swell builds more on Thurs (8/1) to 1.8 ft @ 14-15 secs later (2.5 ft). Swell peaks on Fri (8/2) at 2.4 ft @ 13-14 secs later (3.0 ft). Swell continues on Sat (8/3) fading from 2.5 ft @ 12-13 (3.0-3.5 ft). Residuals on Sun (8/4) fading from 2.5 ft @ 12-13 secs (3.0 ft). Swell fading Mon (8/5) from 2.5 ft @ 12 secs (3.0 ft). Swell Direction: 208 moving to 180 degrees

No meaningful swell to reach the US West Coast.

 

South Pacific Animations: Jetstream - Surface Pressure/Wind - Sea Height - Surf Height

 

QuikCAST's

 

LONG-TERM FORECAST
Marine weather and forecast conditions 3-10 days into the future

North Pacific

Beyond 72 hours no swell producing weather systems are forecast.

 

South Pacific

Beyond 72 hours starting Thurs PM (8/1) a gale is forecast developing southeast of New Zealand with 30 kt southwest winds and seas building to 20 ft at 59S 172E aimed well north and northeast. On Fri AM (8/2) southwest winds are to be pushing northeast at 35+ kts with seas 23 ft at 57.25S 173.75E aimed northeast. In the evening fetch builds some while pushing steadily northeast with southwest winds 35-40 kts with seas 26 ft at 52S 175W aimed northeast. On Sat AM (8/3) fetch is to be building in coverage at 40-45 kts aimed northeast with seas 30 ft at 47.75S 162.25W aimed northeast. Fetch holding in the evening at 40-45 kts aimed northeast with seas 31 ft at 44.75S 157.75W aimed northeast. Fetch holds on Sun AM (8/4) at 40-45 kts with seas 29 ft at 46.5S 146.75W aimed northeast. Fetch fading and starting to push due east in the evening at 40+ kts with seas fading from 28 ft at 42S 148W aimed east-northeast. Something to monitor but so far not strong enough to result in meaningful swell.

On Mon AM (8/5) secondary fetch is to build over the same area with southwest winds 40 kts and seas building from 25 ft at 52S 153W aimed north-northeast. In the evening southwest winds build to 45 kts with seas 34 ft at 53.25S 144.5W aimed northeast. On Tues AM (8/6) southwest winds fade from 40 kts with seas 33 ft at 50S 140W aimed northeast. Something to monitor.

 

 

MJO/ENSO Forecast

 

ENSO Neutral In Control
Forecast Suggests a Weak La Nina Ahead
9 Kelvin Waves traversed the Pacific from Dec '22 through Dec 2023 erupting off Ecuador setting up El Nino for the Winter of 23-24. But that is over and cold water has traversed the subsurface equatorial Pacific and is starting to erupt off the coast of Ecuador with the remaining warm pool created by El Nino starting to dissipate in the East Equatorial Pacific. Regardless, the atmosphere is still weakly in El Nino mode and will continue from previous momentum while slowly fading through Fall of 2024.

MJO/ENSO Discussion
The Madden Julian Oscillation (MJO) is a periodic weather cycle that tracks east along the equator circumnavigating the globe. It is characterized in it's Inactive Phase by enhanced trade winds and dry weather over the part of the equator it is in control of, and in it's Active Phase by slackening if not an outright reversing trade winds while enhancing precipitation. The oscillation occurs in roughly 20-30 day cycles (Inactive for 20-30 days, then Active for 20-30 days) over any single location on the planet, though most noticeable in the Pacific. During the Active Phase in the Pacific the MJO tends to support the formation of stronger and longer lasting gales resulting in enhanced potential for the formation of swell producing storms. Prolonged and consecutive Active MJO Phases in the Pacific help support the formation of El Nino. During the Inactive Phase the jet stream tends to split resulting in high pressure and less potential for swell producing storm development. Wind anomalies in the Kelvin Wave Generation Area (KWGA) are key for understanding what Phase the MJO is in over the Pacific. The KWGA is located on the equator from 135E-170W and 5 degs north and south (or on the equator from New Guinea east to the dateline). West wind anomalies in the KWGA suggest the Active Phase of the MJO in the Pacific, and east anomalies suggests the Inactive Phase. In turn the Active Phase strengthens and the Inactive Phase weakens the jetstream, which in turn enhances or dampens storm production respectively in the Pacific.And the El Nino/La Nino cycle (collectively know as ENSO - El Nino Southern Oscillation) is a less frequent (about once every 7 years) but more impactful cycle that affects world wide weather. Specifically, strong El Nino events promote storm production in the Pacific while La Nina events suppress storm production. These therefore have a significant impact on the production of swell and surf. The paragraphs below analyze the state of the MJO and ENSO in the Pacific and provide forecasts for upcoming activity (or inactivity depending on the state and interaction of these two oscillations).

Overview: In 2019 warm equatorial waters were fading, and by August a tongue of cool water was tracking west on the equator from Ecuador over the Galapagos reaching to a point nearly south of Hawaii. A bit of a recovery tried to occur during Fall of 2019, with weak warm water building in the Nino 1.2 region, but cool water held in a pool off Peru. By April 2020 a cool pool was starting to build, forming a well defined cool tongue that evolved into La Nina, with it fully developing through July 2020. That pattern continued until late Fall 2022 when trades started fading and by early 2023 multiple Kelvin Waves were in flight with significant warming developing over the East Equatorial Pacific. La Nina was dead on 3/18/2023 with El Nino apparently developing. But it was not coupled with the atmosphere as of 7/20/2023.

LONG-RANGE PACIFIC STORM AND SWELL GENERATION POTENTIAL FORECAST
Summer 2024 = 6.0 (California & Hawaii)
Rating based on a 1-10 scale: 1 being the lowest (small and infrequent surf conditions), 5 being normal/average, and 10 being extraordinary (frequent events of large, long period swells)

Rationale: A 3 year La Nina started fading in Jan 2023 and was gone by April. 10 Active MJO's produced 9 Kelvin Waves from Dec 2022 through Dec 2023 resulting in El Nino. The CFS model is predicting steady weal easterly anomalies over the KWGA with the low pressure bias moving over the Maritime Continent and a high pressure bias setting up over the dateline region. We are now in a fading El Nino pattern with La Nina forecast and trying to develop over the Pacific. But, the Summer after a strong El Nino Winter in the Pacific it is normal for the Southern hemi storm pattern to be stronger than normal and centered under New Zealand. The net result should be a somewhat above normal number of swells with above normal size and duration originating under New Zealand.

KWGA/Equatorial Surface Wind Analysis (KWGA - Kelvin Wave Generation Area - The area 5 degrees north and south of the equator from 170W to 135E)
Analysis (TAO Buoys): As of (7/29) 5 day average winds were strong from the east over the East equatorial Pacific and strong east over the Central Pacific and strong east over the KWGA. Anomalies were moderate east over the East equatorial Pacific and light east over the Central Pacific and light west over the KWGA. (Note: These are 5 day average winds, versus realtime, so they lag what is happening today (by about 2.5 days).
2 Week Forecast (GFS Model): (7/30) Today modest east anomalies were over the West KWGA and modest west anomalies over the East KWGA. The forecast suggests the pattern holding till 8/2 while east anomalies build in coverage filling most of the KWGA west of the dateline and then all of the KWGA starting 8/3-8/4 then fading with west anomalies starting to fill the KWGA 8/10 through the end of the model run on 8/15.

Kelvin Wave Generation Area wind monitoring model: West and East

MJO/WWB/Wind Projections:  
OLR Models: (7/29) Currently a neutral MJO pattern was over the KWGA. The statistic model depicts weak Inactive MJO (dry air) setting up on day 5 of the model run building to day 10 of the model run and holding on day 15 of the model run. The dynamic model depicts basically the same thing but with the Inactive MJO starting on on day 10 and gone with a neutral MJO on day 15.
Phase Diagrams - 2 week forecast (CA and GEFS): (7/17) Stale Data - The statistical model depicts the Active Phase was over the far East Maritime Continent and weak. It is to move to the East Pacific 2 weeks out and very weak. The dynamic model depicts about the same thing.
40 day Upper Level Model (assumed to be a statistical model and 1 week ahead of what is occurring at the surface): (7/30) This model depicts a weak Inactive MJO Phase (dry air) over the West KWGA. It is to track east through 8/29 and then be east of the KWGA with an even weaker Active Phase (wet air) moving over the KWGA holding through the last day of the model run 9/8.
4 Week CFS Model (850 mb wind): (7/29)
Today a weak Active MJO was indicated moving over the KWGA with a mix of weak east and west anomalies filling the KWGA. The forecast has the Active MJO tracking through the KWGA through 8/8 with limited west anomalies during that period. Beyond east anomalies are to rebuild at moderate status filling the KWGA through he end of the model run on 8/26 with indications of a very weak Inactive MJO signal indicated 8/12-8/19.
3 Month CFS Model (850 mb wind): (7/30) - using the 5th ensemble member - the mean of the 4 individual members which are all from the 00Z run - 1 run per day):
Today a weak Inactive MJO was starting to build over the West KWGA with a weak Active MJO and spotty west anomalies exiting the KWGA. West anomalies to hang around till 8/3 when then Inactive Phase then tracks east with east anomalies taking hold and continuing to 9/7 when the next Active MJO starts pushing into the West KWGA 8/29 with west anomalies developing 8/31. The Active Phase is to track east through the end of the model run on 10/27 with west anomalies building east to about 160E on 9/6 reaching the dateline 10/18 for a brief window then retrograding west. Beyond east anomalies are forecast east of the dateline steadily building and reaching over the dateline and steadily building to the west over the coming months. But latest model runs suggest maybe east anomalies to not be a prevalent as previously thought. The low pass filter indicates the low pressure is over the Indian Ocean (starting 4/28) and a second contour developed 7/14 and is to be hold through the end of the model run. The high pressure bias started to develop in the Pacific on the dateline 5/4 and built quickly east on (7/24) filling the bulk of the KWGA and east to California if not the whole of the Pacific, but is to collapse 8/7 and be gone. Is is to return filling the bulk of the KWGA starting 9/22 and beyond with only 1 contour line. This is actually an upgrade suggesting weakness in La Nina.

CFSv2 3 month forecast for 850 mb winds, MJO, Rossby etc - Alternate link

Subsurface Waters Temps
TAO Array: (7/30) Today in the far West Pacific the 30 degree isotherm was stable at 175E today. The 29 degree isotherm was retrograding from 170W to 174W. The 28 deg isotherm line had moved east from 143W to 118W but is now retrograding west at 153W. The 24 degree isotherm extends east to 100W where previously it was the whole way across the Pacific but very shallow. Anomaly wise, warm anomalies were now at +1-2 degs filling the East Pacific from 50 meters and above the whole way to the dateline but this is likely not real and just a model anomaly due to no valid sensors in that area. A pool of cold anomalies at up to -5 degs was centered subsurface at 155W. The hi-res GODAS animation posted 7/22 indicates cold anomalies reaching to the surface east of 150W and growing in coverage in the east. Subsurface cold water was filling the equatorial East Pacific thermocline. La Nina is here but not strong. The GODAS animation is 1 week behind the TAO data but also is more detailed and accurately depicted since its satellite based.
Sea Level Anomalies: (7/22) Sea heights over the equatorial Pacific were negative at -5 cms east of 170W with 2 broad pockets at -10 to -15 cms between 110-150W and 155-165W. This suggests a cooling trend is in play. Per the Upper Ocean Heat Anomaly Histogram (7/22) cold water started filling the Equatorial Pacific early March then retracted in June but is now rebuilding in coverage with temps currently -0.5 to -1.5 degs from Ecuador to 170W and poised for more growth. Weak warm anomalies at +0.5-1.0 degs were west of the dateline over the West Pacific. A clear La Nina pattern is in play.

Surface Water Temps
The more warm water in the equatorial East Pacific means more storm production in the North Pacific during winter months (roughly speaking). Cold water in that area has a dampening effect. Regardless of what the atmospheric models and surface winds suggest, actual water temperatures are a ground-truth indicator of what is occurring in the ocean. All data is from blended infrared and microwave sensors.
Satellite Imagery
Hi-res Nino1.2 & 3.4 Qualitative Analysis: (7/29) The latest images depict what appears to be a La Nina cool stream building on the equator from Ecuador west to 170W. Residual warm anomalies from the remnants of El Nino were north and south of it across the Pacific. We are in a transitional phase moving from El Nino to La Nina.
Hi-res 7 day Trend (7/29): A moderate stream of cooling waters were on the equator from Ecuador west over the Galapagos out to nearly 160W. La Nina appears to be pulsing.
Hi-res Overview: (7/27) A moderate stream of cooler than normal waters were running west over the Equatorial Pacific from Peru up to Ecuador then west out to 180W but still pretty weak. Remnant warm water from El Nino was over the rest of the equatorial Pacific from 20N to 20S.
Nino1.2 Daily CDAS Index Temps: (7/30) (The official OISST temp record runs about +0.2 degrees higher). Today's temps continued falling as they have the past 2 weeks down at -1.178 degrees but had been briefly near +0.0 (7/7-7/11) after rising from -1.008 (on Tues 6/25). Previously the trend has been steady at roughly -0.750 since 5/14. Highlights from the recent past are -1.105 (5/28), -1.014 (5/16) rising to +0.184 degrees (5/2) after falling to -0.843 (4/21) and -0.565 on 4/1 and has been below 0 since 3/19.
Nino 3.4 Daily CDAS Index Temps:
(7/30) (OISST runs about +0.2 degrees higher). Today's temps were falling hard at -0.435 and have been generally on a dropping trend since 6/30. Temps fell below the zero mark on 5/20 and but then rebuilt hovering near neutral 6/2 through 6/30. Previously temps have been in the +1.2 deg range since 3/11. Temps were at +1.2 degs or higher since 1/13. Temps had been in the +1.5 range 11/19-1/12.
Weekly OISST
Anomalies were +0.1 (week of 7/24), +0.2 (7/17), +0.3 (7/10 and 7/3), +0.4 ( 6/26) +0.3 (6/19) +0.0 (week of 6/12) +0.1 (6/5 & 5/29) +0.2 degs (5/15 and 5/22), +0.3 (5/8), +0.5 (5/1), +0.8 (4/24), +0.7 (week of 4/17), +0.9 (4/10), +1.2 (week of 4/3), +1.0 (3/27), +1.3 (3/20), +1.1 degs (3/13), +1.4 (3/6), +1.3 (2/28), +1.5 (2/14 & 2/21) +1.7 (2/7), +1.8 (1/31). +1.7 (1/24 & 1/17) up at +1.9 (1/10 & 1/3), +2.0 (12/27, 12/20 and 12/13) after being at +1.9 (12/6), +2.0 (11/29) and +2.1 (11/22 - the highest), then +1.9 (11/15) and +1.8 degs (11/8 & 11/1).
Monthly Data
is falling from +1.72 Oct, +2.02 Nov, +2.02 Dec and +1.82 Jan and +1.52 Feb, +1.12 March, +0.78 April, +0.24 May, +0.16 June. .
3 Month ONI (centered) 3 month period is -0.22 (AMJ), +0.07 MAM, +0.48 FMA, +0.86 JFM, 1.21 for DJF and +1.47 ft for NDJ (just short of minimal Super El Nino status) and +1.49 OND . All others were less than that.

Click for Full Sized Image Click for Full Sized Image

CFSV2 Forecast for Nino3.4 Sea Surface Temp (SST) Anomalies & Current SST Anomalies

SST Anomaly Projections
CFSv2 Data (Nino3.4 Region)
Previous - Temps rose to +0.50 degs mid-May 2023, +0.9 degs in mid-June, and +1.05 mid July reaching up to +1.30 degs early Aug, +1.6 degs in Sept holding in Oct and , +1.95 in Nov, +2.0 in Dec and +1.85 in Jan 2024 and +1.65 in Feb then down to +0.75 degs mid-April, +0.25 mid May and then 0.25 mid June and mid-July, beating expectations.
Forecast (7/30) - Temps to fall to -0.50 late Aug and -1.40 degs in Nov 2024. The PDF Corrected forecast effectively suggests the same trend but with temps to -0.25 degs in Aug and -0.6 in Sept then down to -1.05 degs in Nov-Dec. According to this version of the model we are moving to a weak to moderate La Nina.
IRI Consensus Plume: The July 19, 2024 Plume (all models) depicts temps are -0.229 degs today and is the 2nd month below neutral since El Nino developed. Temps to fall steadily from here forward down to -0.383 in Aug (3 month running mean) then fading from there down to -0.5213 in Oct then rising from there. This is an upgrade with temps previously forecast down to -0.944 (per the April model run). The Dynamic model suggest temps falling to -0.697 in Nov and the Statistic down to -0.315 in Jan.
See chart here - link.

Atmospheric Coupling (Indicating the presence of El Nino in the atmosphere driven by the ocean):
Southern Oscillation Index (SOI) (negative is good, positive bad - all but the Daily Index was a lagging indicator):
Today (7/30) the Daily Index was negative at -23.33 and negative now 4 days in a row likely due to extratropical low pressure in the area of Tahiti. It was positive the previous 4 days. It was negative the 11 days prior. It was positive the 13 days previous to that.
The 30 day average was falling at -5.31. Recent max lows were -19.26 on 2/20, -10.43 on 11/16 and -15.70 on 9/23.
The 90 day average was falling at -2.12. It has not been positive yet since the demise of El Nino. Recent max lows were -11.14 on 11/17, -11.85 on 10/15.
We are in ENSO neutral status.

Pacific Decadal Oscillation
(Negative is bad, Positive is good) The PDO theoretically turned from a 16 year negative run (Jan '98-Feb 2014) turning weakly positive March 2014 holding into June 2017 (up to +1.86 driven by the 2015-16 El Nino) then turned neutral. It went negative again 10/2019 and hard negative in 10/2021-10/2023 driven by a 3 year La Nina conditions (down to -3.13). It started rising (but still negative) 11/2023-2/2024 driven by a strong El Nino, but not enough to even get it to break positive ground (best reading at -1.33 on 2/24). It then started falling to -1.57 in March 2024 and -2.129 April, -3.00 May, -3.02 in June). Looking at the long term record, it seems likely we are still in the Cool Phase of the PDO (La Nina 'like') since 5/1998 with no signs of moving to the positive/warm phase (El Nino 'like').

See imagery in the ENSO Powertool 


Powerlines Jeff Clark Inside Mavericks

Local Interest
Stormsurf Video Surf Forecast for this week. See it Here
For automatic notification of forecast updates, subscribe to the Stormsurf001 YouTube channel - just click the 'Subscribe' button below the video.

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NBC News - Climate Change and Surfing: https://www.nbcnews.com/mach/science/climate-change-good-surfing-other-sports-not-so-much-ncna1017131

Mavericks & Stormsurf on HBO Sports with Bryant Gumbel https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=luQSYf5sKjQ

Pieces Featuring Stormsurf:
http://www.bloomberg.com/video/how-to-predict-the-best-surfing-waves-EsNiR~0xR5yXGOlOq2MqfA.html
http://www.cbsnews.com/videos/surfs-up-for-mavericks-invitational-in-calif/

Time Zone Converter By popular demand we've built and easy to use time convert that transposes GMT time to whatever time zone you are located. It's ion left hand column on every page on the site near the link to the swell calculator.

Surf Height-Swell Height Correlation Table

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