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Pacific Storm and Surf Forecast
Updated: Sunday, July 9, 2023 1:28 PM
Buoys: Northern CA - Southern CA - Hawaii - Gulf of Alaska - Pacific Northwest
Buoy Forecast:
Northern CA - Southern CA - Hawaii - Gulf of Alaska - Pacific Northwest
Pacific Links:  Atmospheric Models - Buoy Data - Current Weather - Wave Models
Forecast Archives: Enter Here
A chronology of recent Mavericks Underground forecasts. Once you enter, just click on the HTML file forecast you want to review (e.g. 073199.html equals July 31, 1999). To view the maps that correspond to that forecast date, select the html file labeled 073199 maps.html
1.9 - California & 2.5 - Hawaii
Using the 'Summer' Scale
(See Swell Category Table link at bottom of page)

Probability for presence of largest swells in near-shore waters of NCal, SCal or Hawaii.    
Issued for Week of Monday 7/10 thru Sun 7/16
Swell Potential Rating Categories
5 = Good probability for 3 or more days of Significant swell
4 = Good probability for 1-2 days of Significant swell
3 = Good probability for 3 or more days of Intermediate/Advanced swell
2 = Good probability for  1-2 days of
Intermediate/Advanced swell
1 = Good probability for 3 or more days of Impulse or Windswell
0 = Low probability for 1-2 days of Impulse or Windswell   

Weak New Zealand Swell Moving Towards HI
South Pacific Falls Asleep

Sunday, July 9, 2023 :

  • Buoy 238 (Barbers Pt)/Buoy 239 (Lani): Seas were 3.0 ft @ 13.3 secs with swell 1.4 ft @ 13.4 secs from 191 degrees. Water temp 79.7 degs (Barbers Pt), 79.7 (Pearl Harbor 233), 79.3 (Lani 239).
  • Buoy 106 (Waimea): This buoy is down. Using Buoy 202 (Hanalei): Seas were 6.2 ft @ 7.1 secs with swell 4.8 ft @ 6.6 secs from 54 degrees. Water temp 78.1 degs
  • Buoy 46025 (Catalina RDG): Seas were 3.4 ft @ 13.7 secs with swell 1.6 ft @ 14.0 secs from 186 degrees. Wind east at 4-6 kts. Water temperature 65.5 degs, 66.0 (Topanga 103), 62.2 degs (Long Beach 215), 66.0 (Oceanside Offshore 045), 67.1 (Del Mar 153), 68.5 (Torrey Pines Outer 100). At Harvest Buoy (071) primary swell was 5.6 ft @ 7.9 secs from 310 degrees. At E. Santa Barbara (46053) swell was 3.1 ft @ 7.7 secs from 270 degrees. At Santa Monica (028) swell was 1.3 ft @ 14.7 secs from 196 degrees. At Oceanside (045) swell was 1.7 ft @ 14.6 secs from 191 degrees. Southward at Pt Loma (191) swell was 2.8 ft @ 9.0 secs from 276 degrees. Water temperature was 66.8 degrees.
  • Buoy 46012 (Half Moon Bay) Out of Service /029 (Pt Reyes): Seas were 5.1 ft @ 5.6 secs with swell 4.3 ft @ 6.6 secs from 310 degrees and southern hemi swell 1.7 ft @ 13.7 secs from 186 degrees. Wind northwest at 10-14 kts (46026). Water temp 51.1 (Bodega Bay 46013), 52.7 degs (Pt Reyes 029), 52.7 (San Francisco 46026), 54.7 (SF Bar 142), 59.7 (Pt Santa Cruz 254) and 56.1 (Monterey Bay 46042).

See Hi-Res Buoy Dashboards (bottom of the page)

Swell Classification Guidelines

Significant: Winter - Swell 8 ft @ 14 secs or greater (11+ ft faces) for 8+ hours (greater than double overhead).
- Head high or better.
Advanced: Winter - Swell and period combination capable of generating faces 1.5 times overhead to double overhead (7-10 ft)
Summer - Chest to head high.
Intermediate/Utility Class: Winter - Swell and period combination generating faces at head high to 1.5 times overhead (4-7 ft).
- Waist to chest high.
Impulse/Windswell: Winter - Swell and period combination generating faces up to head high (1-4 ft) or anything with a period less than 11 secs.
- up to waist high swell. Also called 'Background' swell.

Surf Heights for Hawaii should be consider 'Hawaiian Scale' if period exceeds 14 secs.

Current Conditions
On Sunday (7/9) North and Central CA waves were knee to thigh high coming from the northwest and warbled if not nearly chopped and mushed with dense overcast. Protected breaks were knee to thigh high and cleaner but still somewhat warbled and soft and weak. At Santa Cruz surf was knee to thigh high and clean and sunny. In Southern California/Ventura waves were thigh high and somewhat lined up and mushed with northwest warble but not nearshore wind. Central Orange County had sets at waist to chest high coming from the south and lined up but pretty soft but also mostly clean. South Orange County's best summertime breaks had sets at waist to chest and clean and lined up with decent form but with northwest warble in the water. North San Diego had sets at chest high and lined up with decent form and fairly clean. Oahu's North Shore had some shoulder high sets and lined up with decent form and clean. The South Shore had a few thigh high sets and clean but soft. The East Shore was getting east windswell at chest high and chopped from strong east-northeast trades.

See QuikCASTs for the 5 day surf overview or read below for the detailed view.

Meteorological Overview
On Sunday (7/9) in California lingering remnant swell was hitting the southern end of the state originating from the second of two gales that developed in the far Southeast Pacific on Mon-Wed (6/27) with 33 ft seas aimed north before moving east of the CA swell window. No swell other than local windswell was hitting Hawaii. And another gale developed just east of New Zealand Tues-Wed (7/5) producing 26 ft seas aimed northeast. Small weak swell is propagating towards Hawaii. Otherwise no swell producing weather systems are forecast.

See all the details below...


Current marine weather and wave analysis plus forecast conditions for the next 72 hours

North Pacific

Surface Analysis
On Sunday (7/9) no swell of interest was in the water or being generated relative to Hawaii or California.

Over the next 72 hours no swell producing weather systems of interest are forecast.


North Pacific Animations: Jetstream - Surface Pressure/Wind - Sea Height - Surf Height


Tropical Update
o tropical systems of interest are being monitored at this time.

California Nearshore Forecast

  • Mon AM (7/10) northwest winds a forecast at 10+ kts for North CA and 10-15 kts for Central CA early and up to 20 kts south of Big Sur. In the afternoon northwest winds to be 15-20 kts for North CA and 15 kts for Central CA. No real windswell forecast, just local chop.
  • Tues AM (7/11) northwest winds to be 20-25 kts for Cape Mendocino and 10-15 kts for the rest of North and all of Central CA early. In the afternoon northwest winds to be 20 kts for Cape Mendocino and 10 kts from Pt Reyes southward. Windswell building some.
  • Wed AM (7/12) northwest winds to be 20 kts for Cape Mendocino to the Golden Gate and 10 kts for Central CA. No change in the afternoon. Windswell holding.
  • Thurs AM (7/13) northwest winds to be 15-20 kts for North and Central CA early. In the afternoon northwest winds to build to 20 kts along the North and Central CA coast. Windswell building slightly later.
  • Fri AM (7/14) northwest winds are forecast at 20 kts for Cape Mendocino and 15-20 kts for the rest of North and Central CA early. In the afternoon northwest winds to build to 20-25 kts for Cape Mendocino and 20 kts for the rest of North CA and 15+ kts for Central CA. Windswell building more.
  • Sat AM (7/15) northwest winds to be 25 kts for Cape Mendocino and 10-15 kts for Pt Reyes southward early. In the afternoon more of the same is forecast but with light winds from Pt Reyes southward if not turning to a light eddy flow (south winds). Windswell building some.
  • Sun AM (7/16) northwest winds are forecast at 30+ kts for Cape Mendocino but an eddy flow from Pt Arena southward. Windswell building.

Total snow accumulation for the next 10 days respectively for Squaw Valley, Sugar Bowl, Kirkwood and Mammoth are projected at 0, 0, 0, and 0 inches.

Freezing level for the Pacific Crest Trail and Tioga Pass Road intersection: 14,000+ ft steady from here forward. Summer has arrived in the mountains (starting 7/1). Solid snowmelt continuing.

- - -

Tioga Pass/Pacific Crest Trail intersection forecast: Temps - Freeze Level
More locations here (scroll down to 'Resort Snow Forecasts>Central CA or North CA Caltrans & Backcountry')

Snow Models: (Scroll down for Resort specific forecasts).


South Pacific

On Sunday (7/9) the jetstream was split with the northern branch dominating with 160 kt winds blowing east of Australia then weaker traveling on the 35S latitude line. The influential southern branch was very weak running east on the 65S latitude line forming a weak ridge over the Central Pacific offering no support for gale development. Over the next 72 hours more of the same is forecast but with the ridge in the southern branch pushing further south down on the 70S latitude line over the Ross ICe Shelf and heading east from there offering no support for gale development. Beyond 72 hours starting Wed (7/12) the ridge is to slowly weaken but still present holding over the entirety of the deep South Pacific offering no support for gale development.

Surface Analysis
On Sunday (7/9) the last remnant energy from a swell originating from the second of two gales previously in the far Southeast Pacific was fading along the California coast.

Over the next 72 hours tiny swell from a weak gale previously in the Southwest Pacific just east of New Zealand was tracking towards Hawaii (see Weak New Zealand Gale below).

Otherwise no swell producing weather systems are forecast.


Second Southeast Pacific Gale
On Mon AM (6/26) another small gale developed deep in the Southeast Pacific with 40 kt southwest winds and seas building from 23 ft at 60.75S 142.75W aimed northeast. In the evening south fetch built while lifting northeast at 45 kts with seas 29 ft at 60S 133W. On Tues AM (6/27) the gale was lifting northeast with 40 kt southwest winds and seas building to 33 ft at 56S 127W aimed northeast. In the evening fetch was tracking northeast while fading from 30-35 kts with seas 28 ft at 50.25S 123W aimed northeast. On Wed AM (6/28) fetch held at 35 kts from the southwest with seas 26 ft at 44S 119.5W aimed northeast on the edge of the California swell window. The gale faded out from there.

North CA: Dribbles on Sun (7/9) fading from 1.7 ft @ 12-13 secs early (2.0 ft). Swell Direction: 182 degrees


Weak New Zealand Gale
A gale started developing just south and east of New Zealand on Mon PM (7/3) producing 30-35 kt southwest winds over a decent sized area with seas building from 23 ft at 48.25S 166.5E aimed northeast. On Tues AM (7/4) the gale was building in coverage with 30-35 kts southwest winds aimed northeast and seas 25 ft at 50.5S 170E aimed northeast trying to get sufficient traction on the oceans surface. In the evening fetch consolidated more at 35-40 kts from the southwest while lifting northeast with seas 25 ft at 47.5S 178W aimed northeast. On Wed AM (7/5) 30-35 kt southwest winds continued nearly stationary just east of New Zealand with seas 27 ft at 45.5S 166.75W aimed northeast. In the evening southwest winds were fading from 30-35 kts and shrinking in coverage with seas 25 ft at 42.5S 177.5W aimed northeast. The gale was gone after that. Maybe some small swell to result pushing northeast.

Oahu: Expect swell arrival on Wed (7/12) at 2.0 ft @ 16 secs early (3.0 ft) with period dropping to 15 secs later in the day. Swell fading Thurs (7/13) from 1.9 ft @ 14 secs (2.5 ft) early. Dribbles on Fri (7/14) fading from 1.3 ft @ 12-13 secs early (1.5 ft). Swell Direction: 195 degrees

Southern CA: Expect swell arrival on Fri (7/14) building to 1.6 ft @ 16 secs (2.5 ft) mid-day. Swell holding Sat (7/15) at 1.6 ft @ 15 secs (2.5 ft). Swell fading on Sun (7/16) from 1.5 ft @ 14-15 secs (2.0 ft). Swell Direction: 211 degrees

North CA: Expect swell arrival on Fri (7/14) building to 1.8 ft @ 16 secs (2.5 ft) late. Swell holding Sat (7/15) at 1.8 ft @ 15 secs (2.5-3.0 ft). Swell fading on Sun (7/16) from 1.7 ft @ 14-15 secs (2.5 ft). Swell Direction: 211 degrees


South Pacific Animations: Jetstream - Surface Pressure/Wind - Sea Height - Surf Height




Marine weather and forecast conditions 3-10 days into the future

North Pacific

Beyond 72 hours no swell producing weather systems of interest are forecast.


South Pacific

Beyond 72 hours no swell producing weather systems of interest are forecast.


MJO/ENSO Forecast


El Nino Stalled - Inactive MJO In-Place
Kelvin Wave #4 Is Erupting - Kelvin Wave #5 Developing in the West - Active MJO #6 Done Likely Producing Another Kelvin Wave
NINO3.4 In El Nino Territory and Holding Steady in Coverage

1 Kelvin Wave traversed the Pacific in Dec '22 with a 2nd in Jan-Feb and a 3rd and 4th in March-April and a 5th developing now. And Westerly Winds from MJO #6 likely have produced another Kelvin Wave. But the MJO has stalled now. Sea Surface Temperatures are stable but not warming or expanding. And the SOI is giving up ground. The MJO machine has faltered and the atmosphere is showing no signs of becoming coupled with the ocean.

MJO/ENSO Discussion
The Madden Julian Oscillation (MJO) is a periodic weather cycle that tracks east along the equator circumnavigating the globe. It is characterized in it's Inactive Phase by enhanced trade winds and dry weather over the part of the equator it is in control of, and in it's Active Phase by slackening if not an outright reversing trade winds while enhancing precipitation. The oscillation occurs in roughly 20-30 day cycles (Inactive for 20-30 days, then Active for 20-30 days) over any single location on the planet, though most noticeable in the Pacific. During the Active Phase in the Pacific the MJO tends to support the formation of stronger and longer lasting gales resulting in enhanced potential for the formation of swell producing storms. Prolonged and consecutive Active MJO Phases in the Pacific help support the formation of El Nino. During the Inactive Phase the jet stream tends to split resulting in high pressure and less potential for swell producing storm development. Wind anomalies in the Kelvin Wave Generation Area (KWGA) are key for understanding what Phase the MJO is in over the Pacific. The KWGA is located on the equator from 135E-170W and 5 degs north and south (or on the equator from New Guinea east to the dateline). West wind anomalies in the KWGA suggest the Active Phase of the MJO in the Pacific, and east anomalies suggests the Inactive Phase. In turn the Active Phase strengthens and the Inactive Phase weakens the jetstream, which in turn enhances or dampens storm production respectively in the Pacific.And the El Nino/La Nino cycle (collectively know as ENSO - El Nino Southern Oscillation) is a less frequent (about once every 7 years) but more impactful cycle that affects world wide weather. Specifically, strong El Nino events promote storm production in the Pacific while La Nina events suppress storm production. These therefore have a significant impact on the production of swell and surf. The paragraphs below analyze the state of the MJO and ENSO in the Pacific and provide forecasts for upcoming activity (or inactivity depending on the state and interaction of these two oscillations).

Overview: In 2019 warm equatorial waters were fading, and by August a tongue of cool water was tracking west on the equator from Ecuador over the Galapagos reaching to a point nearly south of Hawaii. A bit of a recovery tried to occur during Fall of 2019, with weak warm water building in the Nino 1.2 region, but cool water held in a pool off Peru. By April 2020 a cool pool was starting to build, forming a well defined cool tongue that evolved into La Nina, with it fully developing through July 2020. That basically continued until late Fall 2022 when trades started fading and by early 2023 multiple Kelvin Waves were in flight with significant warming developing over the East Equatorial Pacific. La Nina was dead on 3/18/2023 with El Nino apparently developing.

Summer 2023 = 3.7 (California & Hawaii)
Rating based on a 1-10 scale: 1 being the lowest (small and infrequent surf conditions), 5 being normal/average, and 10 being extraordinary (frequent events of large, long period swells)

Rationale: A 3 year La Nina started fading in Jan 2023 and was gone by April. 3 Active MJO's produced 3 Kelvin Waves with the 3rd in that series poised to start erupting off Ecuador now (May 2023). The CFS model is predicting steady west anomalies from here forward and the leading edge of the low pressure bias on the dateline and forecast to nearly fill the Pacific during June. We are in a state of transition from ENSO neutral to El Nino during the summer of 2023. As a result we will be moving from a period of reduced number of storm days and storm intensity during the early part of Summer towards a period of enhanced storm production starting Late July and beyond, getting fairly intense come Fall. This should result in a slightly below normal level of swells, with swells being below normal duration and period over early Summer. But by late July 2023, the number of storm days, intensity and duration of those storms should start improving as El Nino starts getting a solid footprint on the atmosphere. The net result is we're currently thinking a near normal number of swells with normal size and duration is to result, but all focused sometime after late July 2023. The swell pattern will be normal to somewhat below normal before July and above normal after July 23. And By Sept, the El Nino footprint should be solid. Of course this is all highly speculative at this early and based mostly on the CFS model and it's projection of a building ENSO footprint getting solid by Sept.

KWGA/Equatorial Surface Wind Analysis (KWGA - Kelvin Wave Generation Area - The area 5 degrees north and south of the equator from 170W to 135E)
Analysis (TAO Buoys): As of (7/8) 5 day average winds were strong from the east over the East equatorial Pacific and strong east over the Central Pacific and moderate to strong east over the KWGA. Anomalies were modest east over the East equatorial Pacific and weak west over the Central Pacific and moderate east over the KWGA. (Note: These are 5 day average winds, versus realtime, so they lag what is happening today (by about 2.5 days).
2 Week Forecast (GFS Model): (7/9) Moderate east anomalies were filling most of the the KWGA focused on the dateline with weak west anomalies in the far west KWGA. Moderate east anomalies are to hold through 7/13 but with west anomalies holding traction in the west to 130E . But on 7/14 a change sets up with modest west anomalies developing and filling the KWGA through 7/22, but then fading with weak east anomalies again starting to take over the KWGA through the end of the model run on 7/25.
Kelvin Wave Generation Area wind monitoring model: West and East

MJO/WWB/Wind Projections:  
OLR Models: (7/8) A neutral MJO was over the KWGA today. The statistical model indicates a neutral MJO pattern in control holding through day 15 of the model run. The dynamic model indicates the same thing but with a Active MJO developing on days 10-15 of the model run.
Phase Diagrams - 2 week forecast (CA and GEFS): (7/9) The statistical model depicts the Active signal was weak over the Central Indian Ocean and is to ease east to the Central Maritime Continent 15 days out and very weak. The dynamic model indicates it moving to the East Maritime Continent on day 15 of the model run and very weak.
40 day Upper Level Model (assumed to be a statistical mode and 1 week ahead of what is occurring at the surface): (7/9) A moderate Inactive (dry) pattern was over the East Pacific today with a strong Active (wet) pattern over the far West Pacific. The forecast has the Inactive Phase (dry air) pushing east into Ecuador and gone by 7/24. But the Active Phase (wet air) is to continue over the KWGA through 7/24 then fading while pushing east of the KWGA and into Ecuador on 8/13 and very weak. A new Inactive Phase (dry air) is to develop over the the KWGA on 7/29 filling it through 8/13 then fading over the Central Pacific the last day of the model run on 8/18.
4 Week CFS Model (850 mb wind): (7/8)
Today the Inactive Phase of the MJO was indicated over the East KWGA with modest east anomalies there and no MJO and building west anomalies over the West KWGA. The forecast indicates the Inactive MJO signal and east anomalies fading and gone by 7/11 with west anomalies building to moderate strength and filling the KWGA and then strong 7/12 holding in the heart of the KWGA through 7/22 fading to moderate strength and then rebuilding to strong status on 7/27 and holding if not building in the heart of the KWGA through the end of the model run on 8/5. Weak east anomalies are forecast developing on the dateline 7/22 and beyond.
3 Month CFS Model (850 mb wind):
(7/9) - using the 5th ensemble member - the mean of the 4 individual members which are all from the 00Z run - 1 run per day):
Today the Inactive Phase of the MJO was holding over the KWGA with neutral to weak east anomalies in control though weak west anomalies were in the far West KWGA. The Inactive Phase is to slowly traverse the KWGA finally gone on 7/17 with west anomalies developing moderately on 7/12 quickly building to strong status on 7/13 and holding as the Active Phase starts building 7/13 in the west and filling the KWGA by 7/18. The Active Phase is to hold through 9/8 with strong west anomalies pretty much the whole time. Impressive. The Inactive Phase is to follow 8/27 through the end of the model run on 10/6 but with modest west anomalies still in control and building back to strong status on 9/15 and continuing through the end of the model run. Basically west anomalies are forecast 7/13 and beyond. El Nino is developing. The shift to El Nino started on 2/15. The low pass filter indicates a high pressure bias with 1 contour line centered at 115W with its western perimeter at 125W today and well east of the KWGA and moving east to 120W in Aug and tracking slowly east from there and gone by late Sept. A broad low pressure bias is established over the West KWGA centered at 170E with 3 contour lines and it's leading edge well east of the dateline at 145W today (it started pushing east on 2/15). A more gradual push east is to continue into 7/25 then stalling at 135W filling most of the Pacific with the third contour line holding till 8/10. The primarily contours leading edge is to be locked at 135W through the end of the model run with it's center at 170E. This is all a big deal and is being repeated in some form consistently from one run of the model to the next since Oct 2022. It appears a strong El Nino is developing.

CFSv2 3 month forecast for 850 mb winds, MJO, Rossby etc - Alternate link

Subsurface Waters Temps
TAO Array: (7/9) Today in the far West Pacific the leading edge of the 30 deg isotherm was present and easing east to 178E (previously 180W) with the 29 degree isotherm backtracking from 157W to 158W. The 28 deg isotherm line was backtracking to 125W (previously 120W). The 26 degree isotherm extended the whole way across the Pacific and was stable at 65 m down in the far East. Anomaly wise, warm anomalies at +2 deg C started at 156W (previously 165W) pushing east with +3-7 degs anomalies over the East Pacific starting at 142W. +6 degree anomalies were from 116W into Ecuador. Amazing but troubling in that no new warm water pockets other than the base warm state at +1 degs were in the West Pacific, meaning no new Kelvin Wave were in-flight. The hi-res GODAS animation posted 7/2 indicates a huge very warm stream of +1-2 degs anomalies extending from the far West Pacific and building while tracking east and then upwards from there over the far East Pacific with +4-5 degs anomalies from Kelvin Wave #3-4 erupting from 165W into Ecuador. A pocket of warmer waters was approaching the dateline between 145E to 175E at +2-3 degs (Kelvin Wave #5) while another pocket of warming waters were in the West Pacific at 120E at +2 degs (Kelvin Wave #6). In other words, this image suggests there more warm water under the dateline than the TAO array suggests. No cool anomalies were indicated. El Nino is developing. The GODAS animation is 1 week behind the TAO data but also is more detailed and accurately depicted since its satellite based.
Sea Level Anomalies: (7/2) Sea heights were positive across the equatorial Pacific at +0-5 cms solid connected to a +10 cms pocket from 130W east into Ecuador. But heights were only at 0 to +5 over a vast portion of the Central and West Pacific with a small break at 142W suggesting no major reservoir of warm water exists there. Positive anomalies extending north into Central America and south to Chile. This means no cool water was at depth. Per the Upper Ocean Heat Anomaly Histogram warm water continues building in intensity and coverage at +1.00-2.00 degs over the East Pacific from 170E and east of there. Some decline in temps have occurred west of the dateline but still +0.5 to +1.0 degrees. Otherwise there's been no change since mid March, a steady flow of warm water pushing east.

Surface Water Temps
The more warm water in the equatorial East Pacific means more storm production in the North Pacific during winter months (roughly speaking). Cold water in that area has a dampening effect. Regardless of what the atmospheric models and surface winds suggest, actual water temperatures are a ground-truth indicator of what is occurring in the ocean. All data is from blended infrared and microwave sensors.
Satellite Imagery
Hi-res Nino1.2 & 3.4 Qualitative Analysis: (7/8) The latest images depict a strong warm signal along the coasts of Peru and Ecuador and building the past few days with lesser but still serious heat extending up Mexico reaching the tip of Baja with a stable tongue extending west over the Galapagos continuing along the equator reaching west beyond the dateline with a warmer core to 138W. This is a clear El Nino signal. And warmer than normal temps were present well off the coasts of Chile and Peru. The classic El Nino triangle was developing. The last remnants of La Nina are gone on the equator but remnants are still quite evident along the California and Baja coast with cold temps and a Springtime upwelling pattern still in control there and likely be reinforced. La Nina is not budging atmospherically over the Pacific.
Hi-res 7 day Trend (7/8): Weak warming was in a few thin pockets on the equator from Ecuador to 105W and then again near the dateline. A neutral pattern was over the rest of the equatorial Pacific. It's not surprising there's no clear signal of warming along Ecuador because temps are already so warm they can't get much warmer. A neutral trend was along the coasts of Chile and Peru. The pattern of adding energy to the warm surface pool is stable. A warming trend had been well entrenched over the East Pacific since Nov 1 with no cooling waters over the equatorial East Pacific since 12/15 except for the time frame from 4/23 to today.
Hi-res Overview: (7/8) Warmer than normal waters are filling the East Pacific off Chile, Peru, Ecuador and north up to Mexico with strong warming in a few pockets along the immediate cost of Peru and Ecuador. And the classic El Nino tongue of more intense warming is building considerably over the equator west to the dateline and beyond. No cool waters were on the equator anymore. Everything is now looking like El Nino. But the La NIna enhanced cool pool off California persists unfazed. Very perplexing. It's a clear sign of the negative PDO and it is not budging.
Nino1.2 Daily CDAS Index Temps: (7/9) (These temps are biased high by about 0.2 degs compared to official sources). Today's temps are down slightly at +2.844 after being up to +2.906 (7/6) rising from +2.451 after peaking at +2.7926 on 6/13 and have been up in the +2.0 to +3.0 degs range since 4/1 having previously peaked at +2.891 (4/13). Previously temps reached +2.302 degrees on 4/6, +1.732 degs (3/22), up from +0.462 since 2/28. Temps had reached as high as +1.076 on 2/19 and were previously steady at +0.848 since 2/7. Previously they started steadily rising 11/13 when they were around -1.5 degs C.
Nino 3.4 Daily CDAS Index Temps:
(7/9) (These temps are biased high by about 0.2 degs). Today temps are rising slightly at +0.882 after being steady at +0.794 4-5 days and that after being steady at +0.895 (3 days near 6/25) after being in the +0.712 range the previous 9 days after previously rising to +0.975 on 6/9. We are now 31 days into a trend of being above the El Nino threshold (for the 2nd time). Temps reached the El Nino threshold for the first time on 5/17 at +0.507 then quickly fell over the next 10 days down to +0.378 (5/26). Previous peaks of +0.318 on 4/30 besting the previous peak at +0.199 on 4/21. Temps have been steadily increasing hitting 0.0 on 4/12 and were then more or less steady the previous 4 weeks. Temps previously rose to -0.402 on 2/23. Temps rose above the La Nina threshold (-0.5 degs) on 2/22 and had been rising slowly since 2/12 when they were about -1.0 degs C. They had been in the -1.0 deg range since at least Nov 2022.

Click for Full Sized Image Click for Full Sized Image

CFSV2 Forecast for Nino3.4 Sea Surface Temp (SST) Anomalies & Current SST Anomalies

SST Anomaly Projections
CFSv2 Data (Nino3.4 Region)
Previous - Temps rose in early Nov 2020 after bottoming out at -1.25 degs, up to -0.01 degs in mid-June 2021 then fading to -1.05 degs in mid-Nov then rebuilding to -0.7 in mid Feb 2022 then fading to -1.1 degs in May before starting an upward climb peaking in mid-June at -0.65 degs and mid July at -0.55 degs. A steady decline set in after that falling to -1.00 degs in Aug and Sept rising to -0.8 degs mid Oct then falling to -1.0 in Nov but then slowly rising to -0.75 degs in Jan 2023 and up to -0.5 degs (above the La Nina threshold) on 2/12. Temps were +0.45 degs today.
Forecast (7/9) - Temps are above in the El Nino range at +0.9 degs and are to hold into mid July then start rising again, to +1.75 degs in Nov and solidly in El Nino territory. The PDF Corrected forecast suggests temps are forecast falling from +0.95 degs in June to +0.75 degs in mid-July then slowly rising to +1.45 degs in Nov-Dec. According to this version of the model we are building into El Nino through the Summer. But max temps are down from previous runs.
IRI Consensus Plume: The June 16, 2023 Plume (all models) depicts temps are +1.120 degs today and it's the 4th month above the La Nina threshold. Temps to rise steadily from here forward to +1.298 in July and up to +1.466 degrees in Oct then fading from there. The dynamic model suggest temps peaking at +1.761 in Oct. The CFS model is on the upper range of all models but 3 of 17 are higher still.
See chart here - link.

Atmospheric Coupling (Indicating the presence of El Nino in the atmosphere driven by the ocean):
Southern Oscillation Index (SOI) (negative is good, positive bad - all but the Daily Index was a lagging indicator):
Today (7/9) the Daily Index was positive at +4.31 and has been positive the last 17 days. It had been negative 11 days prior. It was positive 5 days previous to that then negative for 27 days previous ending 6/6 with a peak down to -29.32 on 5/31, -64.63 on 5/24 and -31.31 on 5/12. Previously readings were toggling between +10 and -10 for 13 days, but negative the 15 days previous to that, positive the 6 days prior to that after being mostly negative 25 days before that. It fell to -19.40 on 4/2. -17.44 on 2/22, the beginning of a change from which no return seemed likely. It was up to +21.85 on 2/10 and +55.74 on 12/22 and were in the +20 range the previous 22 days.
The 30 day average was steady at +2.35 after crossing the neutral point on 7/3. It previously fell to -19.64 on 6/5 had been falling to -4.13 on 4/4 (lagging indicator driven by the Active Phase of the MJO) after falling to -0.52 on 3/22 previously falling to +4.18 on 11/27 and peaking at +21.57 (10/16) after supposedly peaking at +19.66 on 9/28. It was down to +6.89 on 7/29. It peaked at +20.34 (5/12) the highest in a year and beating last years high of +19.51 (1/14).
The 90 day average was falling at -6.09 and turned negative the first time in years on 5/12. A recent max low was -7.57 on 6/6. It previously peaked at +14.63 on 2/20, +15.61 on 10/25 and +12.92 on 8/11 and that after peaking at +18.40 (7/2) beating it's previous peak of +16.86 (5/31), the highest in a year. It previously peaked at +9.80 (9/21) after falling to it's lowest point in a year at +1.06 (6/9). The 90 day average peaked at +15.75 (2/23/21 - clearly indicative of La Nina then). This index is a lagging indicator but suggests that the Active Phase occurring now is starting to drive the index down, hopefully with no upward trend in sight for at least a year.

Pacific Decadal Oscillation
The PDO theoretically turned from a 16 year negative run (Jan 98-Feb 2014) in early 2014 and was positive till Dec 2019, but has been negative ever since, driven by recent La Nina conditions. In May-July 2021 it was the most negative its been in the -1.80 to -2.04 range since Sept 2012 (-2.99) and then fell to -3.16 in Oct 2021 (the lowest since July 1933) then settled at -2.72 in Nov and Dec 2021. Looking at the long term record, it seems likely we are still in the Cool Phase of the PDO (La Nina 'like') with no signs of moving to the positive/warm phase (El Nino 'like').

See imagery in the ENSO Powertool 

Powerlines Jeff Clark Inside Mavericks

Local Interest
Stormsurf Video Surf Forecast for this week. See it Here
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NBC News - Climate Change and Surfing:

Mavericks & Stormsurf on HBO Sports with Bryant Gumbel

Pieces Featuring Stormsurf:

Time Zone Converter By popular demand we've built and easy to use time convert that transposes GMT time to whatever time zone you are located. It's ion left hand column on every page on the site near the link to the swell calculator.

Surf Height-Swell Height Correlation Table


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