Surf Forecasts and Marine Weather - No Hype - Just the Facts!
See Video Forecast HERE (8/14)
Buoys | Buoy Forecast | Bulletins | Models: Wave - Weather - Surf - Altimetry - Snow | Pacific Forecast | QuikCAST | El Nino | Tutorials | Great Circles | Video

Google

Stormsurf Mobile App

Create Your Own Surf Forecast
Swell Calculator
Swell Decay Tables
Sea Height Tables
Swell Category Table
Convert from GMT:
 
 to timezone:

---

Pacific Storm and Surf Forecast
Updated: Thursday, April 28, 2022 2:13 PM
Buoys: Northern CA - Southern CA - Hawaii - Gulf of Alaska - Pacific Northwest
Buoy Forecast:
Northern CA - Southern CA - Hawaii - Gulf of Alaska - Pacific Northwest
Pacific Links:  Atmospheric Models - Buoy Data - Current Weather - Wave Models
Forecast Archives: Enter Here
A chronology of recent Mavericks Underground forecasts. Once you enter, just click on the HTML file forecast you want to review (e.g. 073199.html equals July 31, 1999). To view the maps that correspond to that forecast date, select the html file labeled 073199 maps.html
2.2 - California & 2.2 - Hawaii
Using the 'Winter' Scale
(See Swell Category Table link at bottom of page)

Probability for presence of largest swells in near-shore waters of NCal, SCal or Hawaii.    

Issued for Week of Monday 4/25 thru Sun 5/1

Swell Potential Rating Categories
5 = Good probability for 3 or more days of Significant swell
4 = Good probability for 1-2 days of Significant swell
3 = Good probability for 3 or more days of Intermediate/Advanced swell
2 = Good probability for  1-2 days of
Intermediate/Advanced swell
1 = Good probability for 3 or more days of Impulse or Windswell
0 = Low probability for 1-2 days of Impulse or Windswell   

One More Gale for NPac
Southern Hemi Gale Tracking East

 

BUOY ROUNDUP
Thursday, April 28, 2022 :

  • Buoy 233 (Pearl Harbor)/Buoy 239 (Lanai) NA/Buoy 238 (Barbers Pt) NA: Seas were 2.5 ft @ 14.3 secs with swell 1.2 ft @ 13.3 secs from 155 degrees. Water temp 77.7 degs (Barbers Pt), NA (Lani 239), 77.0 (Pearl Harbor 233).
  • Buoy 106 (Waimea): Seas were 3.0 ft @ 9.9 secs with swell 1.5 ft @ 9.7 secs from 204 degrees. Water temp 77.5 degs.
  • Buoy 46025 (Catalina RDG): Seas were 4.3 ft @ 12.8 secs with swell 1.8 ft @ 12.9 secs from 222 degrees. Wind northwest at 4-10 kts. Water temperature 58.3 degs, 60.4 (Topanga 103), 59.0 degs (Long Beach 215), 59.0 (Del Mar 153), 58.8 (Imperial Beach 155). At Harvest Buoy (071) primary swell was 5.8 ft @ 8.7 secs from 306 degrees. At Santa Monica (028) swell was 1.5 ft @ 14.8 secs from 207 degrees. At Oceanside (045) swell was 1.8 ft @ 14.8 secs from 200 degrees. Southward at Pt Loma (191) swell was 2.2 ft @ 12.5 secs from 262 degrees. Water temp 61.9 degs.
  • Buoy 46012 (Half Moon Bay)/029 (Pt Reyes): Seas were 6.3 ft @ 10.5 secs with swell 3.4 ft @ 10.1 secs from 307 degrees. Wind at buoy 46012 was northwest at 14-18 kts. Water temp 51.4 degs (Pt Reyes 029), 48.7 (46026), 52.0 (SF Bar 142), and 54.7 (Santa Cruz 254).

See Hi-Res Buoy Dashboards (bottom of the page)

Swell Classification Guidelines

Significant: Winter - Swell 8 ft @ 14 secs or greater (11+ ft faces) for 8+ hours (greater than double overhead).
Summer
- Head high or better.
Advanced: Winter - Swell and period combination capable of generating faces 1.5 times overhead to double overhead (7-10 ft)
Summer - Chest to head high.
Intermediate/Utility Class: Winter - Swell and period combination generating faces at head high to 1.5 times overhead (4-7 ft).
Summer
- Waist to chest high.
Impulse/Windswell: Winter - Swell and period combination generating faces up to head high (1-4 ft) or anything with a period less than 11 secs.
Summer
- up to waist high swell. Also called 'Background' swell.

Surf Heights for Hawaii should be consider 'Hawaiian Scale' if period exceeds 14 secs.

PACIFIC OVERVIEW
Current Conditions
On Thursday (4/28) North and Central CA had set waves at waist high with some bigger peaks and mushed and chopped with whitecaps in effect. Protected breaks were waist to maybe chest high on the sets and soft and pretty formless with northwest lump intermixed but not chopped. At Santa Cruz surf was waist to maybe chest high on the rare sets and lined up and glassy with decent form but with some lump running through it. In Southern California/Ventura waves were waist high on the sets and weakly lined up with poor form and no wind but with a steady northwest warble running through it. Central Orange County had sets at waist high and lined up with decent form but moderate south winds were putting some lump in the mix. South Orange County's best summertime breaks had a few sets at chest high and lined up but with poor form from wind and lump. North San Diego had some sets to head high and lined up but a little closed out with some south lump in the mix but not too bad. Hawaii's North Shore was small with sets to maybe waist high at top spots and fairly clean. The South Shore had some sets at waist high and lined up and real clean but soft. The East Shore was thigh high and pretty ruffled from modest east trades.

See QuikCASTs for the 5 day surf overview or read below for the detailed view.

Meteorological Overview
On Thursday (4/28) California was getting locally produced northwest windswell mixed with fading swell from a gale that developed just east of New Zealand on Sat-Sun (4/17) with 29-30 ft seas aimed well northeast before fading on Tues (4/19) well north in the Central South Pacific. Swell from another small gale that tracked across the Central South Pacific Tues-Thurs (4/21) lifting well northeast with seas to 29 ft was to arrive later today in California. Another gale developed under New Zealand on Mon (4/25) producing up to 39 ft seas aimed east-northeast with secondary energy developing on Wed (4/27) producing 36 ft seas aimed well northeast. That swell is pushing northeast towards Hawaii and CA. Beyond no obvious swell sources are forecast in the South Pacific.

Up north a gale is forecast pushing off Kamchatka on Thurs (4/28) with 29 ft seas but quickly fading with secondary energy developing on the dateline Sun (5/1) pushing east with seas rebuilding to 38 ft then moving east through the Gulf on Mon (5/2) with seas fading from 32 ft. So a mix of both north and south swells to continue for a little bit longer.

See all the details below...

 

SHORT- TERM FORECAST
Current marine weather and wave analysis plus forecast conditions for the next 72 hours

North Pacific

Overview
Jetstream
On Thursday (4/28) the jet was fairly consolidated running off the South Kuril Islands on the 46N latitude line pushing just south of the Aleutians to the Northwestern Gulf with winds to 150 kts trying to form a trough in the Gulf but not quite making it before pushing inland over Oregon. No support for gale development was indicated. Over the next 72 hours the same pattern is to continue with winds building in the jet to 160 kts on Sat (4/30) forming a trough over the Northwestern Gulf pushing into the Pacific Northwest late on Sun (5/1) perhaps offering some hope. Beyond 72 hours more of the same is forecast with a new trough building in the Gulf on Tues (5/3) being fed by 170 kts winds offering good support for gale development into Wed (5/4) then fading while pushing up to Oregon on Thurs (5/5). But after that then jet is to be weakening off the Kuril Islands with no meaningful velocity and no support for gale development. One last gaps for Winter.

Surface Analysis
On Thursday (4/28) no swell was in the water.

Over the next 72 hours starting Thurs AM (4/28) a gale was developing just over the extreme North Kuril Islands on Thurs AM (4/28) producing 40 kts west winds and seas building from 26 ft at 49N 153.5E aimed east. In the evening west winds are to be 35-40 kts over a small area aimed east and just clear of the Kuril Islands with seas 27 ft at 48.25N 161.5E aimed east. Fetch fading from 35 kts on Fri AM (4/29) west of the dateline with seas fading from 25 ft at 46.5N 168E aimed east. The gale to dissipate from there with its remnants pushing east towards the Gulf with secondary fetch right behind (see paragraph below).

A small gale is forecast pushing off Japan and racing northeast approaching the dateline on Sat PM (4/30) with 45-50 kt west winds and seas building from 38 ft over a small area at 43.25N 167E aimed east. On Sun AM (5/1) the gale is to be just west of the dateline with 45 kt west winds and seas 37 ft at 44.75N 175E aimed east. In the evening the gale is to be fading with 40 kt west winds over a decent sized area just east of the dateline with seas 37 ft at 45.5N 177.25W aimed east. On Mon AM (5/2) the gale is to be fading in the Western Gulf with 35+ kt west winds over a decent sized area and seas 32 ft at 46N 169W aimed east. In the evening the gale is to be fading in the Central Gulf with 30-35 kts west winds and seas fading from 28 ft at 46.75N 162W aimed east. On Tues AM (5/3) the gale is to be fading with 30 kt west winds and seas fading from 25 ft at 47.75N 157W aimed east. The gale is to dissipate from there. Something to monitor.

 

North Pacific Animations: Jetstream - Surface Pressure/Wind - Sea Height - Surf Height

 

Tropical Update
No tropical systems of interest are being monitored.

California Nearshore Forecast

  • Fri (4/29) northwest winds are forecast at 20 kts early for North CA and 20-25 kts for Central CA and holding in the afternoon.
  • Sat (4/30) northwest winds are forecast at 15 kts for North CA though 10 kts for Cape Mendocino and 15 kts down to Monterey Bay and 20-25 kts south of there over Central CA early. In the afternoon northwest winds are forecast at 20 kts for all of North CA and 20-25 kts for Central CA. Rain for Cape Mendocino through the day.
  • Sun (5/1) northwest winds are forecast at 20-25 kts for all of North and Central CA holding all day.
  • Mon (5/2) northwest winds are forecast at 10-15 kts for North CA early and 15-20 kts for Central CA building in the afternoon for North CA at 25-30 kts and 20-25 kts for Central CA. Light rain for Cape Mendocino early.
  • Tues (5/3) northwest winds are forecast at 25-30 kts for North CA early and 10-15 kts for Central CA nearshore early, In the afternoon northwest winds is forecast at 15-20 kts for North CA but 25-30 kts for Cape Mendocino and 10-15 kts for Central CA.
  • Wed (5/4) northwest winds are forecast at 10 kts for North and Central CA early fading to 5-10 kts in the afternoon.
  • Thurs (5/5) southwest winds are forecast at 5 kts for North CA early and west 5 kts for Central CA early. In the afternoon south winds are forecast at 10 kts for North and Central CA. Rain developing for North CA mid morning reaching south to Monterey Bay late afternoon.

Total snow accumulation for the next 10 days respectively for Squaw Valley, Sugar Bowl, Kirkwood and Mammoth at 0, 0, 0, and 0 inches.

Freezing level about 6,500 ft today building to 10,500 ft on Fri (4/29) generally holding there before building to 12.500 ft on Sun (5/1) and holding. Freezing level falling to 6,000 ft on 5/6.

Water Assessment: It's assumed no more precipitation will fall this rain season. A total of 86 inches of snow has fallen at Olympic Valley between 4/11 and 4/22. Impressive. Effectively all of California's frozen precip has fallen between 3 events - on Oct 18-26 (42 inches), Dec 9-Jan 5 (215 inches), and then this April Event (86 inches). Total accumulation is 394 inches at 8,000 ft. Normal total seasonal accumulation is 400 inches (Olympic Valley). Rainfall is at about 87% in that same corridor (San Francisco-Sacramento and Tahoe). But north and south of there it's in about the 70% range (total season accumulation). All this speaks to the power of the jetstream moving onshore and it's laser like focus on the SF-SAC-Tahoe area. Without those 3 events, California would be in very deep trouble.

----

Tioga Pass/Pacific Crest Trail intersection forecast: Temps - Freeze Level (more here - scroll down to 'Resort Snow Forecasts>Central CA or North CA Caltrans & Backcountry')

Snow Models: http://www.stormsurf.com/mdls/menu_snow.html (Scroll down for resort specific forecasts). Updated!

 

South Pacific

Overview
Surface Analysis
Swell from a gale that pushed north from New Zealand was fading out in California (see New Zealand Gale Aimed Well North below). And a small gale in the Southeast Pacific has produced small swell radiating north towards CA (see Small Southeast Pacific Gale below).

Over the next 72 hours swell is likely evolving from a two part gale that is developing from under New Zealand (see Somewhat Stronger New Zealand Gale below).

 

New Zealand Gale Aimed Well North
On Sat AM (4/16) a gale started developing southeast of New Zealand with 45-50 kt southwest winds and seas building from 28 ft at 53S 180W aimed northeast. In the evening 40 kt south winds were pushing northeast with seas 31 ft at 52S 172W aimed northeast. On Sun AM (4/17) south winds were 40 kts aimed well north over a decent sized area with seas 29 ft at 48N 164W aimed northeast. In the evening 40 kt south winds were lifting northeast with seas 30 ft at 45S 160W aimed north and northeast. On Mon AM (4/18) 40-45 kt south winds were continuing to lift north with seas 31 ft at 50.25S 153.25W aimed north. The gale is to be fading in the evening with 35 kt south winds and seas fading from 28 ft at 43S 152W aimed north. The gale is to dissipate from there. Something to monitor.

Southern CA: Swell fading on Thurs (4/28) from 1.6 ft @ 14-15 secs early (2.0-2.5 ft). Swell Direction: 202-211 degrees

North CA: Swell fading on Thurs (4/28) from 1.6 ft @ 14-15 secs early (2.0-2.5 ft). Swell Direction: 201-210 degrees

 

Small Southeast Pacific Gale
On Tues AM (4/19) a tiny gale started developing over the deep Central South Pacific with 40 kt south winds lifting northeast with seas 24 ft at 55S 164W aimed northeast. In the evening the gale was lifting northeast with 45-50 kt south winds and seas 29 ft at 52.25S 150.25W aimed northeast. On Wed AM (4/20) south winds were 40-45 kts from the south over the Central South Pacific with seas 29 ft at 51S 141.7W aimed north. In the evening the gale was over the Southeast Pacific with 40-45 kt south winds and 29 ft seas at 49.5S 136W aimed northeast. The gale was fading on Thurs AM (4/21) with 35 kt south winds over a tiny area and seas 27 ft at 49S 131.25W aimed northeast. The gale dissipated after that. Something to monitor.

Hawaii: This system was east of the Hawaiian swell window.

Southern CA: Expect swell arrival on Thurs (4/28) building to 1.3 ft @ 17 secs (2.0 ft) late. Swell building on Fri (4/29) to 1.5 ft @ 15-16 secs later (2.0-2.5 ft). Swell fading on Sat (4/30) from 1.7 ft @ 14-15 secs (2.0-2.5 ft). Dribbles on Sun (5/1) fading from 1.3 ft @ 13-14 secs (1.5-2.0 ft). Swell Direction: 197 degrees

North CA: Expect swell arrival on Thurs (4/28) building to 1.2 ft @ 17-18 secs (2.0 ft) late. Swell building on Fri (4/29) to 1.5 ft @ 15-16 secs later (2.0-2.5 ft). Swell fading on Sat (4/30) from 1.6 ft @ 14-15 secs (2.0-2.5 ft). Dribbles on Sun (5/1) fading from 1.5 ft @ 13-14 secs (2.0 ft). Swell Direction: 195 degrees

 

Somewhat Stronger New Zealand Gale
A reasonably solid and broad storm started building under New Zealand on Sun PM (4/24) with 40-45 kt southwest winds over a solid area aimed northeast with seas 29 ft at 53.75S 166E aimed northeast. On Mon AM (4/25) 40-45 kt southwest winds were tracking east with 32 ft seas at 55.25S 170E aimed northeast. In the evening the gale was redeveloping a bit further south with a solid fetch of 45 kts southwest winds and seas 33 ft at 52S 175.75W aimed northeast. On Tues AM (4/26) a solid fetch of south winds were blowing at 50-55 kts with seas 37 ft at 58.25S 173.5W aimed north and northeast. In the evening fetch was fading from 40-45 kts from the southwest with seas 37 ft at 55S 170.75W aimed northeast. On Wed AM fetch was fading from 30-35 kts with seas fading from 31 ft at 51S 165.25W aimed northeast. Something to monitor.

On Wed AM (4/27) secondary fetch was developing just southwest of the main fetch and south of New Zealand at 45-50 kts aimed northeast with seas building from 27 ft at 62.5S 175E aimed northeast. In the evening 45-50 kt southwest winds were lifting northeast with seas 36 ft over a small area at 58.5S 176.25W aimed northeast. On Thurs AM (4/28) fetch was 40 kts over a broad area aimed northeast over the Central South Pacific with seas 32 ft at 54.25S 165.5W aimed northeast. In the evening fetch is to be fading from 40 kts aimed northeast over a broad area with seas fading from 31 ft at 51S 154W aimed northeast. Fetch fading Fri AM (4/29) from 30-35 kts over a broad area with seas 29 ft at 50S 146W aimed northeast. The gale is to fade from there.

Hawaii: Expect swell arrival on Mon (5/2) building to 2,0 ft @ 17 secs later (3.0-3.5 ft). Swell holding on Tues (5/3) at 2.0 ft @ 15-16 secs (3.0 ft). Swell from the secondary gael arriving building to 1.3 ft @ 18 secs late (2.0-2.5 ft). On Wed (5/4) primary swell to hold at 2.1 ft @ 16 secs (3.0 ft) with secondary swell 1.3 ft @ 19 secs (2.5 ft). Swell peaking on Thurs (5/5) at 2.6 ft @ 17-18 secs early (4.5 ft). More swell to possibly continue but it has not been generated yet. Swell Direction: 191 degrees with secondary energy at 189 degrees becoming focused on 188 degrees

Southern CA: Expect swell arrival on Wed (5/4) building to 1.4 ft @ 19 secs later (2.5 ft). Swell building on Thurs (5/5) to 2.0 ft @ 17-18 secs later (3.5 ft). Swell building on Fri (5/6) to 2.3 ft @ 16-17 secs early (3.5-4.0 ft). Secondary energy building to 1.3 ft @ 19 secs later (2.0-2.5 ft). More swell to possibly continue but it has not been generated yet. Swell Direction: 210 degrees with secondary energy at 201 degrees

North CA: Expect swell arrival on Wed (5/4) building to 1.4 ft @ 19 secs later (2.5 ft). Swell building on Thurs (5/5) to 2.0 ft @ 17-18 secs later (3.5 ft). Swell building on Fri (5/6) to 2.3 ft @ 17 secs mid-day (3.5-4.0 ft). More swell to possibly continue but it has not been generated yet. Swell Direction: 212 degrees

 

South Pacific Animations: Jetstream - Surface Pressure/Wind - Sea Height - Surf Height

 

QuikCAST's

 

LONG-TERM FORECAST
Marine weather and forecast conditions 3-10 days into the future

North Pacific

Beyond 72 hours no meaningful swell producing weather systems are forecast.

 

South Pacific

 

Beyond 72 hours another broad gael is forecast developing in the deep Southwest Pacific Sun AM (5/1) with 50 kt northwest winds over a solid area and seas 43 ft at 61.5S 175.75E aimed southeast only at Antarctica. In the evening west winds to be 50 kts with seas 42 ft at 62.25S 170.75W aimed east. On Mon AM (5/2) west winds to be 40 kts over the Central South Pacific just off Antarctic Ice with seas 31 ft at 62S 157.5W aimed east. The gale is to fade out in the evening. Doubtful any meaningful swell to result given the gales southeast and east heading. Something to monitor.

 

 

MJO/ENSO Forecast

 

La Nina Weakening But Not Out - Another Kelvin Wave Developing
Summary - Cool subsurface water volume peaked under the equatorial Pacific on 10/15/21 and is now fading. A stronger than expected Active Phase of the MJO in Dec produced a Kelvin Wave that erupted over the Galapagos in March, but still solidly in La Nina territory over the Central Pacific. A much hoped for Active Phase of the MJO (and westerly anomalies) in April has resulted in another weak Kelvin Wave pushing east. It seemed the peak of La Nina was behind us. But a 3rd year of La Nina is projected by the CFS model, suggesting an uncertain future. West anomalies are forecast filling half the KWGA from here forward. The outlook is unclear but seems like ENSO neutral is trying to set up.

MJO/ENSO Discussion
The Madden Julian Oscillation (MJO) is a periodic weather cycle that tracks east along the equator circumnavigating the globe. It is characterized in it's Inactive Phase by enhanced trade winds and dry weather over the part of the equator it is in control of, and in it's Active Phase by slackening if not an outright reversing trade winds while enhancing precipitation. The oscillation occurs in roughly 20-30 day cycles (Inactive for 20-30 days, then Active for 20-30 days) over any single location on the planet, though most noticeable in the Pacific. During the Active Phase in the Pacific the MJO tends to support the formation of stronger and longer lasting gales resulting in enhanced potential for the formation of swell producing storms. Prolonged and consecutive Active MJO Phases in the Pacific help support the formation of El Nino. During the Inactive Phase the jet stream tends to split resulting in high pressure and less potential for swell producing storm development. Wind anomalies in the Kelvin Wave Generation Area (KWGA) are key for understanding what Phase the MJO is in over the Pacific. The KWGA is located on the equator from 135E-170W and 5 degs north and south (or on the equator from New Guinea east to the dateline). West wind anomalies in the KWGA suggest the Active Phase of the MJO in the Pacific, and east anomalies suggests the Inactive Phase. In turn the Active Phase strengthens and the Inactive Phase weakens the jetstream, which in turn enhances or dampens storm production respectively in the Pacific.
And the El Nino/La Nino cycle (collectively know as ENSO - El Nino Southern Oscillation) is a less frequent (about once every 7 years) but more impactful cycle that affects world wide weather. Specifically, strong El Nino events promote storm production in the Pacific while La Nina events suppress storm production. These therefore have a significant impact on the production of swell and surf. The paragraphs below analyze the state of the MJO and ENSO in the Pacific and provide forecasts for upcoming activity (or inactivity depending on the state and interaction of these two oscillations).

Overview: In 2019 warm equatorial waters were fading, and by August a tongue of cool water was tracking west on the equator from Ecuador over the Galapagos reaching to a point nearly south of Hawaii. A bit of a recovery tried to occur during Fall of 2019, with weak warm water building in the Nino 1.2 region, but cool water held in a pool off Peru. By April 2020 a cool pool was starting to build, forming a well defined cool tongue that evolved into La Nina, with it fully developing through July 2020. A slow dissolving of La Nina started in March 2021 with 2 Kelvin Waves sweeping east and arriving over the Galapagos in June. Weak warming set up over the equator with no cool waters present. NOAA declared La Nina dead. But cold water returned in July 2021 and a second pulse of La Nina developed and is continuing today, though possibly weaker with its foundation appearing to be in decline.

LONG-RANGE PACIFIC STORM AND SWELL GENERATION POTENTIAL FORECAST
Fall /Winter 2021-2022 = 1.5 (California & Hawaii)
Rating based on a 1-10 scale: 1 being the lowest (small and infrequent surf conditions), 5 being normal/average, and 10 being extraordinary (frequent events of large, long period swells)

Rationale: It was assumed that the moderate La Nina from the Winter of 2020/2021 was on the wane and that a return to neutral ENSO state would set up over the Pacific Basin through the summer of 2021. But La Nina made a strong return by the end of Sept much like what the CFS model suggested would happen. A full double dip La Nina pattern took hold as we moved into November with this second La Nina dip being nearly as strong as the previous one. But a quick fade is forecast as we move into late December with the CFS predicting a return to a neutral wind anomaly pattern at that time and the low pressure bias making headway in to the KWGA in early Jan. Still it will take some time for the atmosphere to fully respond, resulting in a less than normal swell production forecast especially for Fall into early Winter. But by later in Feb 2022 perhaps a return to a more normal pattern might take hold. But it will be too little too late. As a result a significantly reduced number of storm days and storm intensity is expected Oct-Feb 2022, resulting in a below normal level of swells, with swell being below normal duration and period. But by March 2022, the number of storm days, intensity and duration of those storms should start improving as La Nina fades out. The status of the PDO is not known, though it appears to be returning to at least a neutral state, rather than the warm phase as previously projected thereby having no significant positive or negative effect on the long term outlook.

KWGA/Equatorial Surface Wind Analysis (KWGA - Kelvin Wave Generation Area - The area 5 degrees north and south of the equator from 170W to 135E)
Analysis (TAO Buoys): As of (4/27) 5 day average winds were strong from the east over the Eastern equatorial Pacific and strong east over the Central Pacific and strong east over the KWGA. Anomalies were modest east over the East equatorial Pacific and modest east over the Central Pacific and moderate east over the KWGA. (Note: These are 5 day average winds, versus realtime, so they lag what is happening today (by about 2.5 days).
1 Week Forecast (GFS Model): On (4/28) east anomalies were moderate filling the KWGA but fading. The 7 day forecast calls for east anomalies fading fast on 4/29 and moving east. West anomalies are to build to 150E (half way through the KWGA) at moderate strength and holding through the end of the model run on (5/5). East anomalies are to redevelop strong at 150W and well east of the KWGA on 5/3 and holding.

Kelvin Wave Generation Area wind monitoring model: West and East

MJO/WWB/Wind Projections:  
OLR Models: (4/25) A neutral MJO signal was indicated today over the KWGA. The statistical model indicates a neutral MJO signal for the next 2 weeks. The dynamic model projects the same thing. The 2 models are in sync.
Phase Diagrams 2 week forecast (ECMF and GEFS):
(4/26) The statistical model depicts the Active Phase was very weak over the East Indian Ocean and is forecast to noodle around there for the next 2 weeks. The dynamic model suggests the same thing.
40 day Upper Level Model (assumed to be a statistical mode and 1 week ahead of what is occurring at the surface): (4/25) A weak Inactive MJO signal (dry air) was over the East Pacific today. The forecast depicts the Inactive Phase (dry air) moving east while slowly fading moving into Central America on 4/30 while a weak Active Phase (wet air) is to follow over the KWGA on 4/30 moving east to Central America on 5/15. A weak Inactive Phase is to track east from 5/15-5/30 with a very weak pattern beyond through 6/4.
4 Week CFS Model (850 mb wind): (4/27) A neutral MJO Phase was depicted over the KWGA today with moderate to strong east anomalies filling the KWGA but poised to fade. East anomalies are to fade on 4/29 with modest west anomalies moving over the KWGA 4/30-5/16 reaching to 150E then retrograding and gone at the end of the model run. No MJO signal is forecast beyond but east anomalies are to rebuild over the KWGA east of the westerly anomalies focused on the dateline 5/8 through 5/15, fading then rebuilding over the same area holding through the end of the model run on 5/25.
3 Month CFS Model (850 mb wind):
(4/28 - using the 5th ensemble member - the mean of the 4 individual members which are all from the 00Z run - 1 run per day):
Today a very weak Inactive MJO signal was moving over the KWGA with modest east anomalies filling the KWGA. The forecast depicts a weak Inactive signal fading on 5/5 with a neutral MJO forecast beyond but with west anomalies developing and filling 80% of the KWGA starting 4/29 reaching east to about 170E and holding for the foreseeable future. East anomalies are to become focused at 160W starting 5/2 occasionally poking west into the KWGA but of no real consequence. The low pass filter indicates a high pressure bias with 2 contour lines was centered at 150W with its western perimeter at 170E today and forecast slowly easing east to 175E at the end of the model run. A broad single contour low pressure bias is established centered over the Maritime Continent at 110E with it's leading edge at 150E filling half the KWGA and is forecast moving slowly but steadily east from now on reaching 170E at the end of the model run. A second contour line is to appear at 120E on 6/29. Of note, the leading edge of the low pressure bias has been stalled at 150E since 1/31, but finally started moving east on 3/25 and is still doing that today, but incredibly slow. Something to monitor. Today a solid east anomaly pattern that had been in control of KWGA since early July 2021 is done. East anomalies are to recenter themselves at 135W starting 5/4 and holding for the foreseeable future. All this suggest the demise of La Nina proper if this occurs as forecast. But lingering effects will continue over the US West Coast into at least Fall. The model had been constantly slipping later the velocity of the arrival of the low pressure bias deeper into the KWGA. So the future remains uncertain but cautiously optimistic. The full demise of La Nina all hinges on the eastward progress of the low pressure bias.

CFSv2 3 month forecast for 850 mb winds, MJO, Rossby etc - Alternate link

Subsurface Waters Temps
TAO Array: (4/28) Today in the far West Pacific the 29 degree isotherm was present at 162E. The 28 deg isotherm line was steady at 173E. The 26 degree isotherm was reaching east to 120W. The 24 deg isotherm was steady across the East Pacific. Anomaly wise, warm anomalies +3-4 deg C were in a pocket in the far West Pacific down 150m with it's leading edge easing east to 140W and starting to connect to a previous Kelvin Wave in the East Pacific. A shrinking area of -1C cool anomalies were below the warm pool at 115W and fading fast. The hi-res GODAS animation posted 4/23 indicates the same pocket of cool anomalies between 145W-80W at -3 degs C and appears to be now be shifting east and weakening while the remnants of the Kelvin Wave in the east area all but gone. And a new Kelvin Wave is starting to push east from the West Pacific from 155W to 145W. The GODAS animation appears to be 1 week behind the TAO data but also is more detailed and accurately modeled.
Sea Level Anomalies: (4/23) Sea heights were rising some over the Equatorial Pacific. A string of weakly positive anomaly pockets were north of the equator pushing from the dateline to 110W along the 5N latitude line and stronger than days previous and now contiguous. A broad area of negative anomalies at -5 cms were over the equator from Ecuador to 150W but with a previously imbedded pocket at -15 cms now gone. Otherwise positive anomalies were mostly locked from the dateline and points west of there reaching east to 160W today. Per the Upper Ocean Heat Anomaly Histogram the previous Kelvin Wave was gone but with a pocket of cool anomalies fading from -1.0 degs between Ecuador and 148W. And a new Kelvin Wave is trying to push east from 154W. So it looks like the most recent cool bout was just the upwelling phase of the Kelvin Wave cycle and a new downwelling Kelvin Wave is developing while pushing east.

Surface Water Temps
The more warm water in the equatorial East Pacific means more storm production in the North Pacific during winter months (roughly speaking). Cold water in that area has a dampening effect. Regardless of what the atmospheric models and surface winds suggest, actual water temperatures are a ground-truth indicator of what is occurring in the ocean. All data is from blended infrared and microwave sensors.
Satellite Imagery
Hi-res Nino1.2 & 3.4 Qualitative Analysis: (4/27) The latest images depict a broad generic pool of cool water on the equator extending west to the dateline extending well south of the equator with pockets of warm water on the equator from Ecuador to 135W. A broad pocket of strong cold water was along the coast of Peru reaching to the Galapagos on the equator indicative of strong upwelling there. A weak area of warm water was present north of the equator (1 deg N) across the entire North Pacific. Overall this indicates the late stages of La Nina.
Hi-res 7 day Trend (4/27): A few pockets of weak cooling were present at 90W 105W and 120W. Warming was developing on the equator along and off Ecuador to 90W.
Hi-res Overview: (4/27) Persistent cool waters cover a large area from Ecuador to 160E on the equator and from South America down at 20S. Warmer than normal waters were aligned from 1N and above over the entire North Pacific. La Nina remains in control over the East Equatorial Pacific.
Nino1.2 Daily CDAS Index Temps: (4/28) Today's temps were rising some at -1.923 after falling to -2.057 on 4/23 and had been near there since 4/19. Prior to that they were fading after peaking at +0.760 on 3/18. Temps had been moving upwards since 2/20, and beat a previous high of -0.650 degs on 1/9 and that after being down at -1.871 on 1/3 and -1.954 on 12/18, the lowest this year so far. Previously temps dropped on 11/24 at -1.700, the lowest in months after previously toggling steady at about -0.6 degs from mid Aug to Oct 6, then falling from there. Last year temps bottomed out at -2.138 on 8/13/20. The longterm trend has been steadily downward.
Nino 3.4 Daily CDAS Index Temps:
(4/28) Today's temps were fading some at -0.923 after rising to -0.704 on 3/27 and had been on a gentle rising trend since falling to -1.012 on 3/8. Previously temp were rising slightly to -0.505 on 2/2 and that after reaching a peak low of -1.096 on 1/3 beating the previous low of -1.080 on 11/2, the lowest in a year. Prior to that temps had been in a freefall starting from the -0.175 range in early Sept. Before that temps peaked up at 7/1 +0.332, the highest in a year. Temps previously had been steady near -0.222 since early March. Temps bottomed out at -1.654 on 11/3/2020.

Click for Full Sized Image Click for Full Sized Image

CFSV2 Forecast for Nino3.4 Sea Surface Temp (SST) Anomalies & Current SST Anomalies

SST Anomaly Projections
CFSv2 Uncorrected Data
Previous - Temps rose in early Nov 2020 after bottoming out at -1.25 degs, up to -0.01 degs in mid-June 2021 then fading to -1.05 degs in mid-Nov then rebuilding to -0.7 in mid Feb 2022 then fading some after that.
Forecast (4/28) - T
emps are to continue falling to -1.30 degs in early May and then are to slowly rise to about -1.00 degs in July more or less holding there into Nov, then rising more directly beyond. This model suggests we are at going to fall into a third year of La Nina. The PDF Corrected forecast suggests temps falling to -1.45 degs in May then rising to about -0.75 degs in July then slowly falling to -0.95 degs in Nov, then rising beyond. Still, neither of these forecasts are consistent with the IRI forecast (see IRI Consensus forecast below).
IRI Consensus Plume: The April 18, 2022 Plume depicts temps are -0.705 degs today and have bottomed out. They are to warm to -0.601 degs in May (previously -0.315 degrees last month), then rising to -0.449 in July (previously -0.287 degs) and hovering there through November then rising to -0.351 degs (previously 0.0 degs) after that. This model now suggest a continuation of weak La Nina conditions through the Fall.
See chart here - link.

Atmospheric Coupling (Indicating the presence of El Nino in the atmosphere driven by the ocean):
Southern Oscillation Index (SOI) (negative is good, positive bad - this is a lagging indicator):
Today (4/28) the daily index was positive at +30.35 after peaking at +31.80 on 4/6, +27.33 on 1/31/22 and +46.71 on 12/26. The trend of late has been solidly positive. Previous other notable peaks were +30.98 on 11/26, +36.90 on 9/28, +27.75 on 9/13 and +37.86 on 7/15.
The 30 day average was rising some at +19.51 and the highest in a year beating the last high of +13.46 on 3/27, after falling to +0.83 on 1/27 then peaking at +13.07 on 12/31 after previously falling to +6.06 on 11/6 after peaking at +11.58 on 10/22. Before that it fell to -3.36 on 6/22, the lowest in a year. It peaked at +19.51 on 1/14.
The 90 day average was rising some at +13.69 today beating the previous peak of +9.36 on 3/22 and +10.90 on 12/26, falling to +7.10 on 11/1. It previously peaking on 9/21 at +9.80 after falling to it's lowest point in a year on 6/9 at +1.06. The 90 day average peaked at +15.75 on 2/23/21 (clearly indicative of La Nina then). This index is a lagging indicator but suggest La Nina is returning.

Pacific Decadal Oscillation
The PDO theoretically turned from a 16 year negative run (Jan 98-Feb 2014) in early 2014 and was positive till Dec 2019, but has been negative ever since, driven by recent La Nina conditions. In May-July 2021 it was the most negative its been in the -1.80 to -2.04 range since Sept 2012 (-2.99) and then fell to -3.16 in Oct 2021 (the lowest since July 1933) then settled at -2.72 in Nov and Dec 2021. Looking at the long term record, it seems likely we are still in the Cool Phase of the PDO (La Nina 'like') with no signs of moving to the positive/warm phase (El Nino 'like').

See imagery in the ENSO Powertool 


Powerlines Jeff Clark Inside Mavericks

Local Interest
Stormsurf Video Surf Forecast for this week. See it Here
For automatic notification of forecast updates, subscribe to the Stormsurf001 YouTube channel - just click the 'Subscribe' button below the video.

- - -

NBC News - Climate Change and Surfing: https://www.nbcnews.com/mach/science/climate-change-good-surfing-other-sports-not-so-much-ncna1017131

Mavericks & Stormsurf on HBO Sports with Bryant Gumbel https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=luQSYf5sKjQ

Pieces Featuring Stormsurf:
http://www.bloomberg.com/video/how-to-predict-the-best-surfing-waves-EsNiR~0xR5yXGOlOq2MqfA.html
http://www.cbsnews.com/videos/surfs-up-for-mavericks-invitational-in-calif/

Time Zone Converter By popular demand we've built and easy to use time convert that transposes GMT time to whatever time zone you are located. It's ion left hand column on every page on the site near the link to the swell calculator.

Surf Height-Swell Height Correlation Table

226

.
Contact | About | Disclaimer | Privacy
Advertise/Content | Links
Visit Mark Sponsler on Facebook Visit Stormsurf on Instagram Visit Stormsurf on YouTube
Copyright © 2022 STORMSURF - All Rights Reserved
This page cannot be duplicated, reused or framed in another window without express written permission.
But links are always welcome.
Buoys | Buoy Forecast | Bulletins | Models: Wave - Weather - Surf - Altimetry - Snow | Pacific Forecast | QuikCAST | El Nino | Tutorials | Great Circles | Calculator