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Pacific Storm and Surf Forecast
Updated: Sunday, November 23, 2025 1:01 PM
Buoys: Northern CA - Southern CA - Hawaii - Gulf of Alaska - Pacific Northwest
Buoy Forecast:
Northern CA - Southern CA - Hawaii - Gulf of Alaska - Pacific Northwest
Pacific Links:  Atmospheric Models - Buoy Data - Current Weather - Wave Models
Forecast Archives: Enter Here
A chronology of recent Mavericks Underground forecasts. Once you enter, just click on the HTML file forecast you want to review (e.g. 073199.html equals July 31, 1999). To view the maps that correspond to that forecast date, select the html file labeled 073199 maps.html
3.1 - California & 3.5 - Hawaii
Using the 'Winter' Scale
(See Swell Category Table link at bottom of page)

Probability for presence of largest swells in near-shore waters of NCal, SCal or Hawaii.    
Issued for Week of Monday 11/24 thru Sun 11/30
Swell Potential Rating Categories
5 = Good probability for 3 or more days of Significant swell
4 = Good probability for 1-2 days of Significant swell
3 = Good probability for 3 or more days of Intermediate/Advanced swell
2 = Good probability for  1-2 days of
Intermediate/Advanced swell
1 = Good probability for 3 or more days of Impulse or Windswell
0 = Low probability for 1-2 days of Impulse or Windswell   

Modest Swell Hitting HI & CA
2 Dateline Gales Forecast Beyond

BUOY ROUNDUP
Sunday, November 23, 2025 :

  • Buoy 239 (Lani)/Buoy 238 (Barbers Pt): Seas were 3.4 ft @ 15.4 secs with swell 1.7 ft @ 15.0 secs from 291 degrees. Water temp 79.2 (Barbers Pt), 79.2 (Pearl Harbor 233), 79.9 (Lani 239).
  • Buoy 187 (Pauwela): Seas were 7.5 ft @ 15.4 secs with swell 4.6 ft @ 15.3 secs from 321 degrees. Water temp 77.7 degs.
  • Buoy 106 (Waimea)/Buoy 202 (Hanalei): Seas were 8.1 ft @ 15.4 secs with swell 6.5 ft @ 14.9 secs from 316 degrees. Water temp 78.8 degs
  • Buoy 46025 (Santa Monica Basin): Seas were 4.1 ft @ 13.7 secs with swell 2.3 ft @ 13.6 secs from 250 degrees. Wind northwest 8 kts. Water temperature 62.4 degs, 62.2 (Harvest 071), 63.5 (Topanga 103), 63.0 (Long Beach 215), 64.8 (Oceanside Offshore 045), 64.2 (Del Mar 153), 64.4 (Torrey Pines Outer 100). At Harvest Buoy (071) primary swell was 6.0 ft @ 16.0 secs from 302 degrees. At E. Santa Barbara (46053) swell was 3.4 ft @ 13.4 secs from 276 degrees. At Santa Monica (028) swell was 1.6 ft @ 13.5 secs from 248 degrees. At Green Beach (271) swell was 1.9 ft @ 13.5 secs from 216 degrees. At Oceanside (045) swell was 1.8 ft @ 13.5 secs from 320 degrees. Southward at Pt Loma (191) swell was 2.7 ft @ 13.4 secs from 252 degrees. Water temperature 65.1 degrees.
  • Buoy 029 (Pt Reyes)/Buoy 157 (Pt Sur): (using 46026/142 - 029 is Down) Seas were 8.9 ft @ 14.7 secs with swell 6.2 ft @ 14.3 secs from 299 degrees. Wind NA (Bodega Bay 46013), NE 4-6 kts San Francisco (46026), NA (Half Moon Bay 1801593) and NE 10 (Monterey Bay (46092). Water temp NA (Bodega Bay 46013), NA (Pt Reyes 029), 57.6 (San Francisco 46026), 57.6 (SF Bar 142), NA (Half Moon Bay 1801589), 58.5 (Monterey Bay 46092), 58.1 (156 Monterey Outer Canyon).

See Hi-Res Buoy Dashboards (bottom of the page)

Swell Classification Guidelines

Significant: Winter - Swell 8 ft @ 14 secs or greater (11+ ft faces) for 8+ hours (greater than double overhead).
Summer
- Head high or better.
Advanced: Winter - Swell and period combination capable of generating faces 1.5 times overhead to double overhead (7-10 ft)
Summer - Chest to head high.
Intermediate/Utility Class: Winter - Swell and period combination generating faces at head high to 1.5 times overhead (4-7 ft).
Summer
- Waist to chest high.
Impulse/Windswell: Winter - Swell and period combination generating faces up to head high (1-4 ft) or anything with a period less than 11 secs.
Summer
- up to waist high swell. Also called 'Background' swell.

Surf Heights for Hawaii should be consider 'Hawaiian Scale' if period exceeds 14 secs.

PACIFIC OVERVIEW
Current Conditions
On Sunday (11/23) in North and Central CA surf was 3 ft overhead and lined up with decent form and clean but mushed with a little warble in the mix. Protected breaks had sets at head high to 1 ft overhead and lined up and aggressively closed out and clean. At Santa Cruz surf was 2 ft overhead on the sets and lined up with good form and clean but a little bit soft. In Ventura County waves were shoulder to head high and lined up with good form and clean. Central Orange County had sets at waist to chest high and weakly lined up with poor form and warbled if not chopped from brisk south wind. South Orange County's best summertime breaks had waves at waist to chest high on the sets and lined up with decent form but pretty warbled from southerly wind. North San Diego had sets at waist high plus and lined up with good form and real clean but soft. Oahu's North Shore had sets at 1-2 ft overhead with top spots to double overhead and lined up with good form and clean but with a slight bit of northeast warble running through it. The South Shore had sets at thigh high plus on occasion and reasonably lined up and soft with moderate offshore winds. The East Shore was getting east windswell at waist to chest high and lined up and chopped from moderate east trades.

See QuikCASTs for the 5 day surf overview or read below for the detailed view.

Meteorological Overview
On Sunday (11/23) California and Hawaii were seeing swell that originated from a broad gale that developed off the Kurils Tues (11/18) reaching east to the dateline then tracking to the Northwestern Gulf Thurs (11/20) producing 28-35 ft seas aimed east over a diffuse but broad area. Another gale was forming over the North Dateline Sun (11/23) falling southeast through Tues (11/25) with up to 32 ft seas aimed southeast targeting Hawaii well. And a weak system is to track east from off North Japan Wed-Thurs (11/27) producing 26 ft seas then building Fri (11/28) on the dateline pushing east-northeast into the West Gulf on Sun (11/30) with 35 ft seas aimed well east targeting the Islands initially and possibly the US West Coast beyond.

See all the details below...

 

SHORT- TERM FORECAST
Current marine weather and wave analysis plus forecast conditions for the next 72 hours

North Pacific

Overview
Jetstream
On Sunday (11/23) the jetstream was tracking due east on the 34N latitude line off Japan reaching to a point north of the Hawaiian Island with winds 120-140 kts and the jet weakly consolidated, then easing east-northeast still consolidated and moving inland over Washington but with winds only 90 kts. No troughs were indicated offering no support for gale formation. Over the next 72 hours starting Tuesday (11/25) wind energy in the jet is to build pushing off Japan at 150 kts with the first signs of a trough developing on the dateline and then winds on Wed (11/26) to 160 kts with a semi legit trough developing north of Hawaii. Beyond 72 hours starting Thurs (11/27) a full trough is to dig out on the dateline being fed by 170 kt winds supporting gale formation and tracking east into Sat (11/29) with the trough just north of Hawaii. After that winds fade some in the jet and the trough is to lift northeast and start fading. A big ridge is to be over the Eastern Gulf during that window with the jet pushing up to the Alaskan coast supporting only high pressure there then falling south creating a big backdoor trough pushing south with 170 kts winds over the interior US West on Sun (11/3) making for weather over Utah. Back to the west on Sun (11/3) the jet is to weaken with winds 130 kts and almost split running east on the 35N latitude line from Japan to a point north of Hawaii with no troughs indicated.

Surface Analysis
On Sunday (11/23) swell was hitting California and Hawaii from a front and a gale that tracked east from the Kuril Islands to the Northwestern Gulf (see Kuril-Dateline Fetch below).

Over the next 72 hours a new gael is to be forming over the North Dateline region falling southeast targeting Hawaii well (see details directly below).

On Sat AM (11/22) low pressure was building just southwest of the North Dateline Region winding up while producing northwest winds 30-35 kts and seas building. In the evening a gale developed while racing northeast with 40-45 kt northwest winds over the North Dateline region with seas 24 ft at 49N 170.25E aimed east. On Sun AM (11/23) 45-50 kt northwest winds were just south of the Central Aleutians with the core of the low over the North Dateline Region with seas 33 ft at 49.25N 171.25E in the HI and CA swell window. Fetch to hold stationary in the evening at 40 kts aimed well southeast with seas 30 ft at 48.5N 172.25E aimed southeast. The gale is to hold Mon AM (11/24) on the dateline with northwest winds 35-40 kts and seas 27 ft at 45.75N 175.5E aimed southeast. In the evening fetch is to fall southeast over the dateline at 35 kts with seas 27 ft over a decent sized area at 48.5N 176.75E targeting Hawaii well. On Tues AM (11/25) northwest fetch is to be fading from 30-35 kts over the dateline and far West Gulf with seas fading from 25-26 ft at 43.75N 177W aimed southeast and east. Fetch and seas fading in the evening from 21 ft at 43.5N 169.25W aimed southeast. Possible swell for HI and sideband swell for CA to result. Something to monitor.

Oahu: Possible swell arrival later on Wed (11/26)

 

Kuril-Dateline Fetch
On Tues AM (11/18) a fetch of 35-40 kt northwest winds developed off the Kurils with seas 29 ft at 46.75N 157.5E aimed southeast and a front southeast of it producing 45 kts southwest winds and 24 ft seas at 41N 170E. In the evening west winds held at 30-35 kts streaming east off the North Kuril Islands with seas 27 ft at 46N 165.5E with the front producing 45 kts southwest winds and seas 29-30 ft at 41N 174E aimed east. On Wed AM (11/19) northwest winds were35+ kts well off the Kurils approaching the dateline with seas 26 ft at 45N 165E with the front over the dateline generating southwest winds 45-50 kts and seas 35 ft at 44.25N 175W aimed east. In the evening the low and front pushed east and merged somewhat with northwest winds 35-40 kts over the dateline and seas 29-30 ft at 44.5N 176E and the front with 40 kt southwest winds and seas 34 ft at 41.5N 169.75W aimed east. On Thurs AM (11/20) the fetch was fading from 30-40 kts over the Northwest Gulf with seas 28 ft at 48N 177 aimed east and the front fading from 35 kts ahead of the low in the Gulf with seas 28 ft at 43N 159W aimed east. In the evening fetch was fading from 30-35 kts over the Northwestern Gulf with seas fading from 23-26 ft over a broad area at 47N 168W aimed east. Fetch and seas dissipating after that.

Oahu:Swell fading Sun (11/23) from 4.6 ft @ 14-15 secs early (6.0-6.5 ft). Dribbles on Mon (11/24) fading from 3.4 ft @ 12-13 secs (4.0 ft). Swell Direction: 320 degrees.

North CA: Swell fading on Sun AM (11/23) from 6.4 ft @ 15-16 secs early (9.5 ft). On Mon (11/24) reinforcing swell from the core of the low arrives building to 4.9 ft @ 15 secs early (7.0 ft). Swell fading Tues (11/25) from 3.2 ft @ 13-14 secs (4.5 ft) but being overrun by locally generated windswell. Swell Direction: 298-300 degrees

 

North Pacific Animations: Jetstream - Surface Pressure/Wind - Sea Height - Surf Height

 

Tropical Update
N
o tropical activity of interest is being monitored.

California Nearshore Forecast
(North CA is defined as the area north of the Golden Gate - Central CA from Pt Conception to the Golden Gate, and Southern CA everywhere south of Pt Conception).

  • Mon AM (11/24) northwest winds to be 10-15 kts for North CA early and and northwest 15 kts for Central CA. In the afternoon northwest winds to be 15 kts for North CA and 15 kts for Central CA. No precip forecast.
  • Tues AM (11/25) in the morning northwest winds to be 10 kts for North and Central CA but 15 kts off the coast. In the afternoon northwest winds to be 10 kts for North and Central CA but 15 kts off the coast of Central CA. No precip forecast.
  • Wed AM (11/26) low pressure is to be developing off North CA with northwest winds 10 kts for North CA and 10 kts for Central CA. In the afternoon the low moves builds off the CA-OR border with northwest winds 5 kts for North CA and 10 kts for Central CA. No precip forecast.
  • Thurs AM (11/27) the low holds off Cape Mendocino with south winds 10-15 kts for Cape Mendocino and northwest 10 kts for the rest of North CA and 10 kts for Central CA. In the afternoon the low start moving into North CA with south winds 20 kts for Cape Mendocino and south 5-10 kts for the reset of North CA and northwest 10 kts for Central CA. Showers for Cape Mendocino late morning through early evening.
  • Fri AM (11/28) the low falls over Pt Reyes with southeast winds 10 kts for North CA and northwest 10 kts for Central CA east. In the afternoon the low fades over Morro Bay with northwest winds 20 kts for Cape Mendocino and 10 kts for the rest of North CA and north-northwest winds 10 kts for Central CA. Rain for North CA early building south over Central CA late morning the dissipating mid-afternoon.
  • Sat AM (11/29) high pressure take control with northwest winds 15-20 kts for North CA and 15-20 kts for Central CA early. in the afternoon northwest winds fade to 10 kts for North CA and 15-20 kts only south of Monterey Bay. Cold rain developing for North CA in the evening reaching south to Santa Cruz. Snow for the Sierra in the evening.
  • Sun AM (11/30) northwest winds to be 10 kts nearshore for North and Central CA but 20 kts off the coast. Rain for all of North and Central CA early fading late morning. Light snow for the Sierra early.

Sierra Snow Forecast: (focused on Olympic Valley): Freeze level holding at 10,500 ft Mon (11/24)-Wed (11/26). Freeze level falling down to 6,500 ft Fri (11/28) dropping to 5,000 ft on Sat (11/29) rising some to 6,400 ft on Sun (11/30) then rising to 12,000 ft on Mon (12/1) but likely falling beyond. No meaningful snow accumulation for Olympic Valley or Mammoth.

- - -

Tioga Pass/Pacific Crest Trail intersection forecast: Temps - Freeze Level
More locations here (scroll down to 'Resort Snow Forecasts>Central CA or North CA Caltrans & Backcountry')

Snow Models: http://www.stormsurf.com/mdls/menu_snow.html (Scroll down for Resort specific forecasts).

 

South Pacific

Overview
Surface Analysis
On Sunday (11/23) no swell producing weather systems of interest were occurring.

Over the next 72 hours no swell producing fetch of interest is forecast.

 

South Pacific Animations: Jetstream - Surface Pressure/Wind - Sea Height - Surf Height

 

QuikCAST's

 

LONG-TERM FORECAST
Marine weather and forecast conditions 3-10 days into the future

North Pacific

Beyond 72 hours starting Wed PM (11/26) a gale is to develop off Japan tracking east producing northwest winds at 35-40 kts and seas 27 ft at 36N 154E aimed southeast. On Thurs AM (11/27) the gale is forecast tracking east while approaching the dateline producing northwest to west winds at 30-35 kts and seas 27 ft at 33.5N 158.5E aimed southeast. In the evening the gale is to get better organized on the dateline producing north winds at 50 kts and northwest winds 35-40 kts with seas seas building from 28 ft over a small area at 37.5N 173.5E aimed southeast. On Fri AM (11/28) northwest winds to be 45-50 kts just east of the dateline with seas building from 34 ft at 35.5N 180W aimed southeast at Hawaii. In the evening northwest winds to be 40-45 kts with seas 35 ft at 34.75N 174W aimed southeast at the Islands. On Sat AM (11/29) northwest winds to be 45 kts solid in the Gulf with seas 34 ft at 36.25N 169.75W aimed southeast and east. In the evening west winds to be 40 kts with the gale lifting northeast and seas 36 ft at 40.5N 163W aimed east. The gael to fade fast after that while lifting northeast in the Gulf. Something to monitor.

 

South Pacific

Beyond 72 hours no swell producing weather systems of interest are forecast.

 

 

MJO/ENSO Forecast

 

La Nina Is In the Ocean - But Not the Atmosphere -- Is the Change Coming?
Cool Water Dominating NINO3.4
In April 2025 weakly warm water surged east filling the Equatorial West Pacific and built into the East Equatorial Pacific. A low pressure bias moved over the West Pacific reaching 150E ushering in a split ENSO pattern, with El Nino like conditions in the west and La Nina like conditions in the east. The atmosphere is still under momentum of a weak La Nina while the Ocean was trying to transition to ENSO neutral. But in late July 2025 a cool pool emerged over the East Equatorial Pacific with a negative PDO suggesting La Nina is returning. But the SOI has held neutral since June suggesting the atmosphere is not yet coupled with the ocean.

MJO/ENSO Discussion
The Madden Julian Oscillation (MJO) is a periodic weather cycle that tracks east along the equator circumnavigating the globe. It is characterized in it's Inactive Phase by enhanced trade winds and dry weather over the part of the equator it is in control of, and in it's Active Phase by slackening if not an outright reversing trade winds while enhancing precipitation. The oscillation occurs in roughly 20-30 day cycles (Inactive for 20-30 days, then Active for 20-30 days) over any single location on the planet, though most noticeable in the Pacific. During the Active Phase in the Pacific the MJO tends to support the formation of stronger and longer lasting gales resulting in enhanced potential for the formation of swell producing storms. Prolonged and consecutive Active MJO Phases in the Pacific help support the formation of El Nino. During the Inactive Phase the jet stream tends to split resulting in high pressure and less potential for swell producing storm development. Wind anomalies in the Kelvin Wave Generation Area (KWGA) are key for understanding what Phase the MJO is in over the Pacific. The KWGA is located on the equator from 135E-170W and 5 degs north and south (or on the equator from New Guinea east to the dateline). West wind anomalies in the KWGA suggest the Active Phase of the MJO in the Pacific, and east anomalies suggests the Inactive Phase. In turn the Active Phase strengthens and the Inactive Phase weakens the jetstream, which in turn enhances or dampens storm production respectively in the Pacific.And the El Nino/La Nino cycle (collectively know as ENSO - El Nino Southern Oscillation) is a less frequent (about once every 7 years) but more impactful cycle that affects world wide weather. Specifically, strong El Nino events promote storm production in the Pacific while La Nina events suppress storm production. These therefore have a significant impact on the production of swell and surf. The paragraphs below analyze the state of the MJO and ENSO in the Pacific and provide forecasts for upcoming activity (or inactivity depending on the state and interaction of these two oscillations).

Overview: In 2019 warm equatorial waters were fading, and by August a tongue of cool water was tracking west on the equator from Ecuador over the Galapagos reaching to a point nearly south of Hawaii. A bit of a recovery tried to occur during Fall of 2019, with weak warm water building in the Nino 1.2 region, but cool water held in a pool off Peru. By April 2020 a cool pool was starting to build, forming a well defined cool tongue that evolved into La Nina, with it fully developing through July 2020. That pattern continued until late Fall 2022 when trades started fading and by early 2023 multiple Kelvin Waves were in flight with significant warming developing over the East Equatorial Pacific. La Nina was dead on 3/18/2023 with El Nino apparently developing. But it was not coupled with the atmosphere as of 7/20/2023 and never really did get well coupled. There is growing suspicion the Hunga Tonga volcano eruption (1/15/2022) muted El Ninos impact. Regardless, starting in Jan 2024 the first signs of La Nina emerged as would be expected, but never developed more than Modoki status.

LONG-RANGE PACIFIC STORM AND SWELL GENERATION POTENTIAL FORECAST
Fall-Winter 2025/26 = 3.5 (California & Hawaii)
Rating based on a 1-10 scale: 1 being the lowest (small and infrequent surf conditions), 5 being normal/average, and 10 being extraordinary (frequent events of large, long period swells)

Rationale: A Modoki La Nina developed in the Fall/Winter of 2024-25. It faded in Summer of 2025 then started turning toward La Nina again in Aug 2025. Considering it takes 3+ months for La Nina symptoms to appear in the atmosphere after the ocean (Nino 3.4) turns solidly to a La Nina configuration, and the ocean was just starting to make clear moves towards becoming solidly La Nina in late Aug, it seems La Nina could try to build into the jetstream/atmosphere in late Fall (Dec 2025). But the models suggest a return to ENSO neutral in Jan 2025. The other consideration is the PDO also appears to be still be in the cool phase if not cold, and it seem unlikely to change in the next 6 months. The net result is a trend towards La Nina as Fall progresses. And though the models suggest ENSO neutral to weak La Nina into Winter 2025/26, the PDO will overwhelm whatever push there is towards and ENSO neutral pattern beyond, resulting in some form of La Nina for the foreseeable future. This will result in less storm activity in the Northern Hemisphere for Fall-Winter 2025-26 with less storm days and smaller fetch area resulting in smaller and less frequent winter swells. One factor that could mitigate all of this is the fact the leading edge of the low pressure bias has already moved from 125E to 150E and west anomalies are forecast to build over the equatorial West Pacific over the coming months (Fall). If this happens, which is definitely up for debate, this could add fuel to the jetstream as it moves over the West Pacific making it strong and helping to improve support for storm development over the dateline as Winter processes. Most of the Pacific could be under La Nina, but the jetstream could be trending towards El Nino. As of right now, that is more of a minority outcome rather than a certainty.
KWGA/Equatorial Surface Wind Analysis
(KWGA - Kelvin Wave Generation Area - The area 5 degrees north and south of the equator from 135E to 170W - The main area for generating Kelvin Waves)
Analysis (TAO Buoys): As of (11/22) 5 day average winds were strong east over the far East equatorial Pacific and strong east over the Central Pacific and strong east over the dateline but light east over the KWGA. Anomalies were neutral over the East Pacific and light east over the Central Pacific and modest east over the dateline but light east over the KWGA. (Note: These are 5 day average winds, versus realtime, so they lag what is happening today (by about 2.5 days).
2 Week Forecast (GFS Model): (11/23) Today moderate west anomalies were filling the KWGA east to 170E. Moderate to strong east anomalies were east of the dateline. The forecast indicates west anomalies holding at 170E then moving east on 12/1 pushing to a point south of California and holding filling the KWGa if not most of the equatorial Pacific through the end of the model run on 12/9. The forecast starting 11/21 and beyond is better than previous expected a week ago. .

Kelvin Wave Generation Area wind monitoring model: West and East

MJO/WWB/Wind Projections:  
OLR Models: (11/22) Currently a moderate Active MJO (wet air) was filling the KWGA. The statistic model depicts the Active MJO (wet air) holding position at modest status on days 5-10 of the model run moving to the dateline on day 15 of the model run. The Dynamic model indicates the same thing. This is a first push of the Active Phase of the MJO in a very long time.
Phase Diagrams - 2 week forecast (CA and GEFS): (11/23) - The models depict the Active Phase was modest over the West Pacific. The statistic model has it tracking east moving to either the East Pacific moderate status or Africa 15 days out at very weak status. The dynamic model indicates the Active Phase easing over the West Pacific at strong status 4 day then fading to moderate status over the Central Pacific 15 days out.
40 day Upper Level Model (assumed to be a statistical model and 1 week ahead of what is occurring at the surface): (9/1) This model is stuck or corrupt.
4 Week CFS Model (850 mb wind): (11/22)
Today west anomalies but no MJO contours were filling the West KWGA to 170E with moderate east anomalies east of there. The forecast has west anomalies holding position and strength through 11/29 with a single active contour setting up just west of the dateline then moving east to 170W with west anomalies moving east to 170W on 12/9 then pushing east to a point south of California 12/10 and holding through the end of the model run on 12/20.
3 Month CFS Model (850 mb wind): (11/23) - using the 5th ensemble member - the mean of the 4 individual members which are all from the 00Z run - 1 run per day):
Today contours associated with the Active Phase of the MJO were fading while pushing east and over the dateline reaching east to a point south of California with weak west anomalies reaching east to 170E. The Active MJO is to continue tracking east stalled over the dateline through 1/2/25 with modest west anomalies filling the entire KWGA 11/30 through that period. The Inactive Phase is to develop over the KWGA 12/9 through 2/3/25 but with weak west anomalies holding filling the KWGA. Another Active MJO is forecast developing 1/20 through the end of the model run on 2/20 with moderate west anomalies setting up filling the KWGA. This is starting to look like a more normal pattern. The low pass filter indicates the leading edge of the low pressure bias was over the West Pacific reaching east to 150E and is forecast holding there through the end of the model run. The trailing/west edge of the high pressure bias was at 165E today with 1 contour and is to start easing east on 12/16 moving to 165W at the end of the model run.

CFSv2 3 month forecast for 850 mb winds, MJO, Rossby etc - Alternate link

Subsurface Waters Temps
Today (11/23) in the far West Pacific the 29 degree isotherm was steady at 173E due to slackening of trades there and fading of the Inactive Phase of the MJO previously there. The 28 deg isotherm line was backtracking from 176W to 178W. The 24 degree isotherm was easing west moving from 122W to 124W. Warm anomalies were +3 degs in the far West Pacific with cooler water reaching the surface over most of the equatorial Pacific. And cold anomalies were building over a thin area at depth at -4 at 140W with warm water at the thermocline (150 m) holding steady west of 160W. In all cool waters are back but not growing due to fading of east anomalies and a recent Inactive Phase of the MJO. The hi-res GODAS animation posted 11/19 indicates weak cool anomalies were filling the upper ocean above the thermocline (75 meters or higher) east of 165E. Cool anomalies were in control over the deeper ocean at the thermocline (150 meters) east of 140W to Ecuador (a cold water Kelvin Wave). Warm anomalies were filling the West Pacific. The GODAS animation is 1 week behind the TAO data but also is more detailed and accurately depicted since its satellite based.
Sea Level Anomalies: (11/19) Sea heights over the equatorial Pacific were negative (-0.5 cms) from Ecuador to 170W (previously 150W). -10 cms anomalies were embedded in that area on the equator from Ecuador to 145W. The entire East Equatorial Pacific was in a cool pattern again, but it seems we're past the worst of it as it warms, and even at that it was not too bad. Heights were weakly above normal from 170E and points west of there. The cool pool is rebuilding over equator in the East Pacific.
Upper Ocean Heat Anomaly Histogram
(11/19) indicates cool anomalies were filling the equatorial Pacific from Ecuador to 148W and losing coverage. Warm anomalies were west of 170W (previously 150W). On 7/15 we went from ENSO neutral to some flavor of weak La Nina.

Surface Water Temps
The more warm water in the equatorial East Pacific means more storm production in the North Pacific during winter months (roughly speaking). Cold water in that area has a dampening effect. Regardless of what the atmospheric models and surface winds suggest, actual water temperatures are a ground-truth indicator of what is occurring in the ocean. All data is from blended infrared and microwave sensors.
Satellite Imagery
Hi-res Nino1.2 & 3.4 Qualitative Analysis: (11/22) The latest images depict a clear cool pool filling the equatorial Pacific from Ecuador to 165E with embedded cooler pockets evenly spread across that area. This looks like a weak La Nina is in control. Alternate SST Anomaly (Global Mean): Warmer anomalies were limited west of the dateline with cooler waters east of there to Ecuador.
Hi-res 7 day Trend (11/22): Temps were warming from Chile, Peru and Ecuador over the Galapagos out to 120W and neutral west of there.
Nino1.2 Daily CDAS Index Temps: (11/23) (The official OISST temps are 'corrected' to the most recent 30 year base period where this data is less aggressively corrected). Today's temps were steady at -0.932 and previously was steady at -1.1 11/2-11/6. Previously temps were -0.7 10/24-11/1 and previously steady at -1.00 (10/13-10/20) then had been generally steady around -0.750 since since 8/24 after peaking at +0.370 on 8/11 and +0.420 on 8/16. Prior to that temps were rising, up from -0.330 on 8/1 after falling from +0.23 degs 7/16, falling to -0.080 9 days earlier (7/12) after inching up at +0.209 7/8 after being down as low as -0.2 (6/25), falling from +0.31 on 6/15, down at -0.087 6/12, +0.38 on 6/8, and previously up to +0.426 degs (5/29).
Nino 3.4 Daily CDAS Index Temps:
(11/23) Today's temps were steady at -1.164 down from -0.973 (11/5) after falling to -1.087 (10/30) and had been hovering in this range since 9/15 . Temps fell down to -0.870 on 9/1 and had been falling since 8/9, steady at -0.447 starting 7/30 being down at -0.625 (7/27) after being steady at -0.065 7/9 and holding there since 7/4 after being steady at -0.136 since 6/23 previously up in a peak at -0.173 (6/4) and had been falling 5/8-5/16 from 0.00 but otherwise have been slowly and steadily rising from -0.5 degs since 4/7.
Weekly OISST
Anomalies were steady at -0.7 (week of 11/12 & 11/5) Previously temps were -0.6 (weeks of 10/15, 10/22 & 10/29), -0.3 (10/8), -0.5 (9/24 & 10/1), -0.4 (9/17), -0.5 (9/10), -0.3 (9/3), -0.4 (8/20 & 8/27), -0.3 (7/30, 8/6 & 8/13), -0.2 (7/16 & 7/23), +0.1 (7/9), 0.0 (7/2), +0.1 (6/25), +0.2 (6/18), 0.0 (6/4 & 6/11), -0.1 (5/28), -0.2 (5/21), -0.1 degs (5/14), +0.1 (5/17), -0.1 (4/30), 0.0 (4/23), -0.2 (4/16), -0.1 (4/2 & 4/9), +0.2 (3/26), -0.1 (3/19), 0.3 (3/12), 0.0 (3/5), -0.2 (2/26), -0.3 (2/12 & 2/19), -0.6 (2/5), -0.8 (1/29), -0.9 (1/22), -0.6 (1/15), -0.7 (1/1 and 1/8).
Monthly Data
is -0.53 Oct, -0.47 Sept, -0.36 Aug, -0.14 July -0.06 June, -0.13 May, -0.14 April, +0.01 March, -0.43 Feb, -0.73 Jan.
3 Month ONI (relative centered) 3 month period is -0.78 (ASO). -0.63 (JAS), -0.47 (JJA), -0.43 (MJJ), -0.49 AMJ, -0.52 (MAM), -0.67 (FMA), -0.89 (JFM), -1.12 (DJF), -1.07 (NDJ), -0.92 (OND).

Click for Full Sized Image Click for Full Sized Image

CFSV2 Forecast for Nino3.4 Sea Surface Temp (SST) Anomalies & Current SST Anomalies

SST Anomaly Projections
CFSv2 Data (Nino3.4 Region)
Previous - Temps rose unexpectedly to +0.025 in March then faded only to -0.1 in April (far less that the -0.40 forecast) then steady at 0.00 in May-June. Temps started falling in mid-July down to -0.3 in Aug, -0.45 Sept and -0.40 in Oct.
Forecast (11/21) - Sea Surface Temp Anomalies for Nov did NOT fall nearly as hard as previously forecast (was -0.95 but is -0.7). Temps are forecast falling slightly to -0.75 now through mid-Dec then rising to technically neutral early Jan, -0.30 degs mid-Jan then neutral (0.0) in early Feb 2026 and building after that. The PDF Corrected forecast effectively suggests the same with temps fading some to -0.75 degs in Nov and technically neutral -0.50 degs in early Jan then rising on the same path. It looks like we're heading into something that looks like a Modoki La Nina in the Fall of '25 at worst, but turning neutral before reaching Winter proper.
IRI Consensus Plume: The Nov 19, 2025 Plume (all models) depicts temps are at -0.649. Previous projections were -0.633 and -0.623. Temps to rise to -0.533 in DJF and 0.084 in AMJ. The Dynamic model suggest temps rising to -0.529 DJF and +0.543 at the end of the model run. The Statistic model suggests temps rising to -0.538 up to -0.082 at the end of the model run. In other words, We are just barely at weak La Nina today but back to neutral in January and forecast rising slowly from there indicating ENSO Neutral this Fall and Winter.
See chart here - link.

Atmospheric Coupling (Indicating the presence of El Nino in the atmosphere driven by the ocean):
Southern Oscillation Index (SOI) (negative is good, positive bad - all but the Daily Index was a lagging indicator):
Today (11/23) the Daily Index was positive at +38.17 and has been generally rising and mostly positive the past month.
The 30 day average was rising some at +17.97 and has been rising steadily from +8.12 a month ago.
The 90 day average was rising at +9.60 and on the high side of ENSO neutral rising steadily from +4.12 a month ago.

Pacific Decadal Oscillation (Negative is bad, Positive is good)
Past Recent History:
The PDO theoretically turned from a warm (positive) trend in Spring of '98 and has cool (negative) mostly since then other than turning weakly positive March 2014-June 2017. It went hard negative in 10/2021-10/2023 driven by a 3 year La Nina conditions (down to -3.13). It started rising (but still negative) 11/2023-2/2024 driven by a strong El Nino, but not enough to even get it to break positive ground (best reading at -1.33 on 2/24). It then started falling in March 2024 down to -3.54 Sept (the lowest since April 1859) and -3.81 (Oct) the lowest ever reported. But in Nov the index final rose some to -3.24 and -2.08 in Dec 2024 and -1.32 in Jan 2025.
Current Situation: The index was steady at -2.40 Oct, -2.38 Sept (and inline with average readings since Nov 2021), -3.18 Aug after falling hard in July at -4.0 (the lowest ever), -2.51 June, -1.71 May, -1.18 April, -1.12 March and -1.45 Feb 2025. Looking at the long term record, it seems likely we are stable and still in the Cool Phase of the PDO (La Nina 'like') since 5/1998 with no sign of moving to the positive/warm phase (El Nino 'like') of any meaningful duration yet. We need at least 3 months of -1.2 or higher values before one could guess that maybe the cool phase is weakening.

See imagery in the ENSO Powertool 


Powerlines Jeff Clark Inside Mavericks

Local Interest
Stormsurf Video Surf Forecast for this week. See it Here
For automatic notification of forecast updates, subscribe to the Stormsurf001 YouTube channel - just click the 'Subscribe' button below the video.

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ESPN Sports Center 'Ride of a Lifetime' - The backstory of Alo Slebir's possible 100+ ft wave at Mevericks - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=luQSYf5sKjQ

NBC News - Climate Change and Surfing: https://www.nbcnews.com/mach/science/climate-change-good-surfing-other-sports-not-so-much-ncna1017131

Mavericks & Stormsurf on HBO Sports with Bryant Gumbel https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=luQSYf5sKjQ

Pieces Featuring Stormsurf:
http://www.bloomberg.com/video/how-to-predict-the-best-surfing-waves-EsNiR~0xR5yXGOlOq2MqfA.html
http://www.cbsnews.com/videos/surfs-up-for-mavericks-invitational-in-calif/

Time Zone Converter By popular demand we've built and easy to use time convert that transposes GMT time to whatever time zone you are located. It's ion left hand column on every page on the site near the link to the swell calculator.

Surf Height-Swell Height Correlation Table

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