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Pacific Storm and Surf Forecast
Updated: October 30, 2007 8:58 PM
Buoys: Northern CA - Southern CA - Hawaii - Gulf of Alaska - Pacific Northwest
Buoy Forecast:
Northern CA - Southern CA - Hawaii - Gulf of Alaska - Pacific Northwest
Pacific Links:  Atmospheric Models - Buoy Data - Current Weather - Wave Models
Forecast Archives: Enter Here
A chronology of recent Mavericks Underground forecasts. Once you enter, just click on the HTML file forecast you want to review (e.g. 073199.html equals July 31, 1999). To view the maps that correspond to that forecast date, select the html file labeled 073199 maps.html
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Swell Potential Rating = 3.0 - California & 3.0 - Hawaii
Using the 'Winter' Scale
(See Swell Category Table link at bottom of page)
Probability for presence of largest swells in near-shore waters of NCal, SCal or Hawaii.    
Issued for Week of Monday 10/29 thru Sun 11/4
Swell Potential Rating Categories
5 = Good probability for 3 or more days of Significant swell
4 = Good probability for 1-2 days of Significant swell
3 = Good probability for 3 or more days of Utility swell
2 = Good probability for  1-2 days of Utility swell
1 = Good probability for 3 or more days of Impulse or Windswell
0 = Low probability for 1-2 days of Impulse or Windswell   

South Hemi Swell #5S On the Way
Intermediate Class Swell Scheduled From the Dateline


On Tuesday (10/30) Northern CA surf was waist to chest high and clean. South facing breaks in Santa Cruz were waist high with some bigger peaks. Central California surf (Morro Bay) was up to waist high. Surf in Southern CA from Santa Barbara to just north of LA was flat. The LA Area southward to Orange County was waist high. South Orange County down into San Diego best breaks were up to waist high at the better breaks. The North Shore of Oahu was chest to head high. The South Shore was chest high with some larger sets. The East Shore was a head high to one foot overhead.

North/Central California was getting the start of some small to moderate swell originating from the dateline. Southern California was not getting any swell of interest. Hawaii's North Shore was getting the tail-end of one dateline swell with another right on it's heels. East windswell generated by trades and winds that pushed off California days earlier was fading on the East Shore. And southern hemi swell from New Zealand was fading along the South Shore. In the North Pacific small swell from a dateline gale was fading in Hawaii and just starting to show at exposed breaks in California. A fast moving gale was pushing into the Gulf of Alaska right behind setting up another moderate dose of swell for both Hawaii and California. But in all the pattern has really fallen apart. Latest runs of the models suggest possible improvement almost a week out, but that's pure guesswork this far in advance. The southern hemi has been reasonably active relative to Hawaii with a second moderate swell pushing north, also providing lesser opportunity for California. But of most interest is a reasonably large and strong storm currently winding up due south of Hawaii with fetch aimed well towards California and the Islands. Possible summertime significant class swell to result. See details below...


Current marine weather and wave analysis.cgius forecast conditions for the next 72 hours

North Pacific

Tuesdays jetstream charts (10/30) for the North Pacific indicated a reasonably cohesive flow pushing off Japan at 130 kts and slowly meandering it's way northeast to the Gulf of Alaska while weakening. No trough or ridges of interest were indicated providing not support for surface level low pressure development. Over the next 72 hours something almost resembling a trough is to try and set up over the dateline Thursday (11/1) but is to quickly get pinched off by two very energetic ridges setting up over the width of the North Pacific with winds building to 190 kts. Maybe limited hope for surface level low pressure north of Hawaii for 24 hours, but that's all. Beyond 72 hours things to improve somewhat with a weak trough setting up off the Kuril Islands with winds to 150 kts starting Monday (11/5) and holding. Some support for surface level low pressure development if things evolve as forecast. a

At the surface today moderate high pressure at 1024 mbs was over the dateline with a second one at 1028 mbs ridging into British Columbia, making for generally calm conditions there. Swell from a previous gale was fading in Hawaii and just starting to hit California (see Dateline Gale below). Another gale low was in the far north Gulf of Alaska generating 25 ft seas, remnants of a tropical system earlier in the week (see Another Dateline Gale below). But most of it's energy was aimed at the Pacific Northwest or points north of there. Over the next 72 hours a fast moving pattern to continue with not particularly good results. Another little low is to set up Wednesday (10/31) in the Western Gulf tracking fast to the northeast with next to no fetch aimed south towards either Hawaii or California, and inland 24 hours later. another little low is to set up just 700 nmiles north of Hawaii late Friday (11/2) generating 30-35 kts north winds for 18 hours before dissolving, producing 21 ft seas in the evening possibly good for a dose of 12 sec period windswell late Sunday (11/4) fading early Monday. But that's all.

Trades to continue flowing over Hawaii at near 20 kts generating short period windswell through Thursday along Eastern Shores.


Dateline Gale
On Tuesday (10/23) a 988 mb low pressure system was trying to develop over the northern Kuril's but hadn't pushed out into exposed waters of the Northwest Pacific. That low tracked east through the Bering Sea generating a broad fetch of 30-35 kts winds in the Northwestern Pacific free and clear of obstruction from the Aleutians and aimed well at Hawaii down the 314 degree great circle path by Wednesday AM (10/24). Seas built to 21 ft starting near 45N 165E. The low tracked east though the Bering Sea while the fetch tracked east also free-and-clear in the North Pacific Thursday (10/25) pushing over the dateline Friday (10/26). Reinforcing winds pushed south over the Aleutians and into the main swell generation area reaching 35 kts Friday AM, though mostly holding in the 30 kt range. Seas built to 23 ft at 47N 175W at that time swinging more towards the US West Coast and less towards the Islands. By Saturday the fetch and low faded out in the far Northwestern Gulf with seas fading from 19 ft at 47N 162W. In all this is was not anything resembling an impressive system and was really quite mediocre. But it held together for 4 days and was in relatively close proximity to the Hawaiian Islands. The net result is some form of 13-14 sec period swell reaching Hawaii starting late Sunday (10/28) with swell 5 ft @ 13 secs (6-7 ft faces) holding Monday into Tuesday (4.6 ft @ 12 secs - 5.5 ft faces). before fading out Wednesday. Energy is also forecast pushing into Central California on late Tuesday (10/30) with swell 3.7 ft @ 14 secs (5 ft faces) continuing Wednesday at 4.5 ft @ 12 secs ( 5 ft faces) then fading out.

Another Dateline Gale
A solid low at 980 mbs tried to organize off Japan fueled by tropical moisture with winds modeled at 40 kts aimed somewhat towards Hawaii, looking almost halfway decent. The Japan low raced northeast almost to the dateline Sunday evening with winds 40-45 kts but aimed mostly northeast and then to the Gulf of Alaska Monday morning (10/29) and holding. The problem here was it was moving so fast it did not get decent traction on the oceans surface. By Monday night it's was pushing over Alaska with no fetch aimed at our forecast area. At this point it's pretty doubtful any real swell will result. Hawaii to get a little pulse of swell at 4.5 ft @ 14 secs late Thursday (11/1) making 6 ft faces from 320 degrees. Small swell to push into Central California starting late Thursday (11/1) at 3 ft @ 14-15 secs (4.5 ft faces) up to 4 ft @ 12 secs Friday morning (10/2) making 5 ft faces. Swell Direction 295-300 degrees.


No systems of interest were being tracked.


North Pacific Animations: Jetstream - Surface Pressure/Wind - Sea Height - Surf Height


California Offshore Forecast
On Tuesday (10/30) moderate high pressure at 1028 mbs was in control of waters well off the California coast but starting to push closer. Wednesday into Thursday the high is to start influencing the local pattern generating a light northwesterly flow maybe to 10 kts. These winds to become more concentrated in the Cape Mendocino area early Friday reaching 25-30 kts and starting to generate the usual summer time local windswell, but winds to be away from the coast south of Pt Arena. Winds to start pushing away from the coast late Friday with a calming pattern taking hold into the weekend well into next week.


South Pacific

Tuesdays jetstream charts (10/30) for the South Pacific indicated a very solid trough set up well south of Tahiti with 130 kt winds blowing due north providing good support for surface level storm development. But a strong ridge was right behind pushing into Antarctica and eliminating any hope. Over the next 72 hours the trough to be long gone but the ridge is to fade just as quick too, with a generally weak flow remaining over the width of the South Pacific but tracking reasonably well north of the Ross Ice Shelf, maybe offering a smidgen of hope long term. Beyond 72 hours a weak trough is to try and set up under New Zealand, but a much stronger ridge to build east of there by starting Monday (11/5) likely shutting thing down for good.

At the oceans surface all eyes were on a strong storm southeast of New Zealand (see Central Pacific Storm below). No other swell producing systems of interest were occurring. Over the next 72 hours the Central Pacific Storm to slowly fade away to nothing, with no other systems forecast.


Southwest Pacific Gale
A new gale was building under New Zealand Wednesday (10/24). By evening pressure was 964 mbs tracking east from under New Zealand moving into the Southwest Pacific. Winds were confirmed at 45-50 kts at 53S 168E moving into the Hawaiian swell window. 29 ft seas were modeled at 54S 152E aimed mostly east. On Thursday AM (10/25) the low was clear in the Hawaiian swell window with 45 kts winds confirmed aimed northeast at 52S 177E aimed 30 degrees east of the 200 degree great circle path to Hawaii. 32 ft seas were modeled at 52S 172E. In the evening the gale held at 50S 180W with 40-45 kt winds still aimed 30 degrees east of the 195 degree great circle path to Hawaii. A small area of 37 ft seas were modeled at 50S 180W. Friday AM (10/26) pressure was 956 mbs but winds were fading from 35 kts at 49S 170W with seas fading from 32 ft at 47S 170W. Some form of 30-35 kt winds persisted in this area not moving too much to the east, but not imparting much longer period energy to the ocean. 25 ft seas continued near 55S 170W spurting up to 28 ft Sunday AM (10/28), then fading out. This developed pretty close to the modeled projections maybe just a shade weaker. In all some form of solid utility class summertime swell seems likely pushing into the Hawaiian Islands with period near 18 secs starting late Wednesday (10/31) reaching 3 ft @ 17 secs (5 ft faces) late Thursday (11/1) and 3 ft @ 16 secs Friday (4.5-5.0 ft faces) from 200 degrees. Residuals into Saturday. Utility class swell for California possible starting roughly Saturday (11/3) peaking Sunday (11/4) at 2 ft @ 16 secs (3 ft faces). Swell Direction: 215 degrees.


Central Pacific Storm #5S
On Monday AM (10/29) a new low pressure system was building fast with pressure 960 mbs and in close proximity to a 1036 mbs high over New Zealand, generating a moderate fetch of confirmed winds at 60 kts winds at 50S 162W aimed 25 degrees east of the 182 degree path to Hawaii and right up the 203 degree path to California unshadowed by Tahiti. Seas were on the increase with winds acting on an already agitated ocean surface. By evening pressure dropped to 948 mbs with 60-65 kt winds confirmed over a solid area at 43S 155W aimed 25 degrees east of the 178 degree path to Hawaii and right up the 202 degree path to California. Actually there was 720 nmiles of straight line fetch grater than 40 kts with most 50-60 kts. Seas built to 37 ft at 49S 158W. The Jason-1 satellite passed over the edge of this system and reported seas of 35 ft, right on-track with the ave models.

This system was fading fast Tuesday AM (10/30) with residual 35-40 kt south winds up to 42S 147W. Seas were modeled at 39 ft at 45S 150W. The Jason-1 satellite passed over the leading edge of this system and reported seas of 38 ft, right on-track with the models. Still 40 kts winds to hold into the evening aimed due north at 50S 145W aimed right up the 190 degree path to California, then dissipating late. Seas from previous fetch fading from 36 ft at 42S 145W but mostly just the decaying energy from previous days fetch.

This was a very short lived system, but was concentrated with high winds acting essentially on a consistent part of the oceans surface. Sea heights were not over the top, but were solid given the short life of this storm and were confirmed twice by the Jason-1 satellite. Current data suggests significant class swell is likely for both California and Hawaii and much more for Tahiti.

Hawaii: Expect swell arrival starting late Sunday (11/4) with period 20 secs and size coming up. Swell to start peaking Monday morning at 4.3 ft @ 17 secs (7 ft faces with top spots to 9 ft). Swell holding solid through the day. Swell holding at 4.3 ft @ 14-15 secs Tuesday early (6 ft faces with best spots to 8 ft) simmering down through the day. Swell Direction: 180-185 degrees

Southern CA: Swell arrival expected starting Tuesday (11/6) sunrise with swell 2.6 ft @ 19 secs (5 ft faces) building to 3.6 ft @ 18 secs at sunset (6.5 ft faces with best break to 8 ft). Swell Direction 200 degrees

Northern CA: Swell arrival expected starting Tuesday (11/6) sunrise with swell 2.3 ft @ 20 secs (4.5 ft faces) building to 3.3 ft @ 18 secs at sunset (6 ft faces with best break to 8 ft). Swell Direction 195-200 degrees


South Pacific Animations: Jetstream - Surface Pressure/Wind - Sea Height - Surf Height




Marine weather and forecast conditions 3-10 days into the future

North Pacific

Beyond 72 hours the models suggest another gale is to try and develop over the Kamchatka Peninsula over the weekend (11/3) but is to get quickly shunted north into the Bering Sea, dying there. A second dose of energy to follow right behind and further to the south, possibly wrapping up into a decent large area gale Mon-Wed (11/7) with some form of consistent northwesterly winds at 30-35 kts and seas building steadily towards 28 ft over the Northwest Pacific aimed at Hawaii and the Western US. Possible moderate period utility class swell to result if this develops as forecast, which is a bit of a reach this far out.


South Pacific

Beyond 72 hours the South Pacific to remain in a quiet pattern. No swell producing systems of interest are modeled.

Details to follow...


External Reference Material: El Nino Southern Oscillation (ENSO), Madden Julian Oscillation (MJO) , Pacific Decadal Oscillation (PDO) , Southern Oscillation Index (SOI) , Kelvin Wave

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Local Interest

Sharkwater: There's a new feature film called Sharkwater that is hitting theaters November 2nd. Sharkwater is an award winning documentary (22 international film awards including the UN and Cannes) that broke box office records in Canada, opening to bigger numbers than any documentary in history save Fahrenheit 911 and Supersize Me. It is a conservation film that demonstrates that the biggest influence on the air we breathe, and global warming is life in the oceans except life in the oceans is being wiped out. Shark populations have dropped 90% in the last 30 years alone, and the oceans continue to be destroyed because nobody knows that it's happening Learn more here:

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Bluewater Gold Rush: The first and only chronicle of the California sea urchin dive fishery. Diving, surfing, comedy, and tragedy on and under the waves of California. "A quintessential tale of California ... dramas of adventure and loss on and under the sea" We read it and it's a great story about the bloom of the urchin diving boom in the 70's and the few lucky souls who were right there when it took off. An easy read that's hard to put down. The trials and success of a 'real' California dream right down to it's core. Check it out here:

Submit your story to 'Surfings Greatest Misadventures: Vol. 2': DEADLINE: January 15th, 2008 Casagrande Press is seeking stories, articles, and essays on the general subject of surfing misadventure for publication in Surfings Greatest Misadventures: Volume 2. We are looking for nonfiction, first-person surf stories of bad judgment calls, pranks, comical/ironic episodes, disaster, attacking predators, misfortune, injury, loss of wit or limb, panic, critical conditions, contest meltdowns, everyday fears, surf trips gone wrong or the out-of-water episodes that surround surfing. We are looking for well-written stories that tell a good tale, reflect a culture, and develop the depth of the characters involved. We also like stories that have a tight narrative tension and a payoff at the end. Open to writers and surfers of any level. There is no fee to submit a story. We will consider previously published stories. To see more info on the first book visit Submit online at

Waveriders Gallery: Check out this collection of high quality artwork all related to waves and the ocean. Surf Paintings, Photography, Posters, Books, Boards and exhibits all produced by a variety of top artists provide a beautiful selection of pieces to chose from. Take and look and see some of the stunning work available from these artists.

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