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Pacific Storm and Surf Forecast
Updated: Friday, June 30, 2023 11:42 AM
Buoys: Northern CA - Southern CA - Hawaii - Gulf of Alaska - Pacific Northwest
Buoy Forecast:
Northern CA - Southern CA - Hawaii - Gulf of Alaska - Pacific Northwest
Pacific Links:  Atmospheric Models - Buoy Data - Current Weather - Wave Models
Forecast Archives: Enter Here
A chronology of recent Mavericks Underground forecasts. Once you enter, just click on the HTML file forecast you want to review (e.g. 073199.html equals July 31, 1999). To view the maps that correspond to that forecast date, select the html file labeled 073199 maps.html
2.8 - California & 2.3 - Hawaii
Using the 'Summer' Scale
(See Swell Category Table link at bottom of page)

Probability for presence of largest swells in near-shore waters of NCal, SCal or Hawaii.    
Issued for Week of Monday 6/26 thru Sun 7/2
Swell Potential Rating Categories
5 = Good probability for 3 or more days of Significant swell
4 = Good probability for 1-2 days of Significant swell
3 = Good probability for 3 or more days of Intermediate/Advanced swell
2 = Good probability for  1-2 days of
Intermediate/Advanced swell
1 = Good probability for 3 or more days of Impulse or Windswell
0 = Low probability for 1-2 days of Impulse or Windswell   

South Angled Swell Pushing North To California
Weak New Zealand Gale Forecast

BUOY ROUNDUP
Friday, June 30, 2023 :

  • Buoy 238 (Barbers Pt)/Buoy 239 (Lani): Seas were 2.4 ft @ 12.5 secs with swell 1.4 ft @ 12.3 secs from 186 degrees. Water temp 78.6 degs (Barbers Pt), 78.8 (Pearl Harbor 233), 80.2 (Lani 239).
  • Buoy 106 (Waimea): This buoy is down. Using Buoy 202 (Hanalei): Seas were 4.6 ft @ 6.2 secs with swell 3.5 ft @ 6.4 secs from 53 degrees. Water temp 78.6 degs
  • Buoy 46025 (Catalina RDG): Seas were 2.8 ft @ 12.8 secs with swell 1.1 ft @ 12.9 secs from 181 degrees. Wind south at 4-6 kts. Water temperature 63.5 degs, 66.6 (Topanga 103), 62.1 degs (Long Beach 215), 65.7 (Oceanside Offshore 045), 67.3 (Del Mar 153), 65.3 (Torrey Pines Outer 100). At Harvest Buoy (071) primary swell was 3.4 ft @ 8.5 secs from 309 degrees. At E. Santa Barbara (46053) swell was 1.7 ft @ 9.4 secs from 267 degrees. At Santa Monica (028) swell was 1.0 ft @ 12.5 secs from 205 degrees. At Oceanside (045) swell was 1.0 ft @ 13.2 secs from 194 degrees. Southward at Pt Loma (191) swell was 1.4 ft @ 12.3 secs from 223 degrees. Water temperature was 65.5 degrees.
  • Buoy 46012 (Half Moon Bay) Out of Service /029 (Pt Reyes): Seas were 7.7 ft @ 8.3 secs with swell 5.6 ft @ 7.9 secs from 316 degrees and southern hemi swell 1.5 ft @ 12.9 sec from 196 degrees. Wind northwest at 10-12 kts (46026). Water temp 50.7 (Bodega Bay 46013), 52.2 degs (Pt Reyes 029), 52.2 (San Francisco 46026), 57.0 (SF Bar 142), 58.8 (Pt Santa Cruz 254) and 57.0 (Monterey Bay 46042).

See Hi-Res Buoy Dashboards (bottom of the page)

Swell Classification Guidelines

Significant: Winter - Swell 8 ft @ 14 secs or greater (11+ ft faces) for 8+ hours (greater than double overhead).
Summer
- Head high or better.
Advanced: Winter - Swell and period combination capable of generating faces 1.5 times overhead to double overhead (7-10 ft)
Summer - Chest to head high.
Intermediate/Utility Class: Winter - Swell and period combination generating faces at head high to 1.5 times overhead (4-7 ft).
Summer
- Waist to chest high.
Impulse/Windswell: Winter - Swell and period combination generating faces up to head high (1-4 ft) or anything with a period less than 11 secs.
Summer
- up to waist high swell. Also called 'Background' swell.

Surf Heights for Hawaii should be consider 'Hawaiian Scale' if period exceeds 14 secs.

PACIFIC OVERVIEW
Current Conditions
On Friday (6/30) North and Central CA waves were waist to maybe chest high and warbled and wonky with light winds but not clean and foggy. Protected breaks were waist high or so and clean but soft and weak with a low cloud deck. At Santa Cruz surf was flat and clean and foggy. In Southern California/Ventura waves thigh to near waist high and lined up and clean with decent form but very weak. Central Orange County had sets at waist to near chest high and soft nearly breaking on the beach and real clean early. South Orange County's best summertime breaks had sets at waist high plus and lined up and clean with decent form but inconsistent and weak. North San Diego had sets at thigh to maybe waist high and somewhat lined up with decent form and soft and clean. Oahu's North Shore was flat and clean wit sideshore lump. The South Shore was flat and clean. The East Shore was getting east windswell at thigh high and chopped from moderate east-northeast trades.

See QuikCASTs for the 5 day surf overview or read below for the detailed view.

Meteorological Overview
On Friday (6/30) California and HAwaii were getting no swell of interest. Swell is radiating north towards California from the first of two gales that developed in the far Southeast Pacific Sun-Mon (6/26) producing a tiny area of 31 ft seas aimed north. Another developed right behind on Mon-Wed (6/27) further south with 33 ft seas aimed north before moving east of the CA swell window. And a gale is finally forecast just east of New Zealand Tues-Thurs (7/6) producing 27 ft seas aimed northeast with luck,. Perhaps a bit of a pattern change to develop for the Pacific.

See all the details below...

 

SHORT- TERM FORECAST
Current marine weather and wave analysis plus forecast conditions for the next 72 hours

North Pacific

Overview
Surface Analysis
On Friday (6/30) no swell of interest was in the water or being generated relative to Hawaii or California.

Over the next 72 hours no swell producing weather systems of interest are forecast.

 

North Pacific Animations: Jetstream - Surface Pressure/Wind - Sea Height - Surf Height

 

Tropical Update
Hurricane Adrian on Fri AM (6/30) was 420 nmiles south of Cabo San Lucas tracking east with 85 kt winds. Over the next 24 hours Adrian is to continue tracking east while fading with winds down to 55 kts (tropical storm strength) and fading from there. No swell to result for anywhere.

Otherwise no tropical systems of interest are being monitored at this time.

California Nearshore Forecast

  • Sat AM (7/1) northwest winds to be 25+ kts for North CA down to Pt Arena and 10 kts from there down over Central CA early. On the afternoon northwest winds to be 25-30 kts limited to Cape Mendocino with a light eddy flow (south winds) for Pt Arena southward. Windswell fading some.
  • Sun AM (7/2) northwest winds to be 25-30 kts for Cape Mendocino with an eddy flow for Pt Arena southward. No change in the afternoon. Windswell holding.
  • Mon AM (7/3) northwest winds to be 25 kts for Cape Mendocino with an eddy flow south of Pt Arena. No change in the afternoon but with northwest winds 5-10 kts for Central CA. Windswell holding.
  • Tues AM (7/4) northwest winds to be 20-25 kts for Cape Mendocino with an eddy flow south of Pt Arena. In the afternoon northwest winds are to be fading from 15-20 kts for Cape Mendocino with an eddy flow (south winds) from Pt Arena southward. Windswell fading out.
  • Wed AM (7/5) northwest winds to be 20 kts for Cape Mendocino with an eddy flow south of Pt Reyes. In the afternoon no change is forecast. Minimal northwest windswell possible.
  • Thurs AM (7/6) northwest winds to be 20 kts limited to North CA with northwest winds 10 kts over Central CA. In the afternoon northwest winds are forecast at 15-20 kts for North CA and 10+ kts for Central CA. No real windswell forecast.
  • Fri AM (7/7) northwest winds are forecast at 15 kts for North and Central CA early. No real windswell forecast.

Total snow accumulation for the next 10 days respectively for Squaw Valley, Sugar Bowl, Kirkwood and Mammoth are projected at 0, 0, 0, and 0 inches.

Freezing level for the Pacific Crest Trail and Tioga Pass Road intersection: 14,000 + ft steady from here forward. Summer has arrived in the mountains. Solid snowmelt occurring.

- - -

Tioga Pass/Pacific Crest Trail intersection forecast: Temps - Freeze Level
More locations here (scroll down to 'Resort Snow Forecasts>Central CA or North CA Caltrans & Backcountry')

Snow Models: http://www.stormsurf.com/mdls/menu_snow.html (Scroll down for Resort specific forecasts).

 

South Pacific

Overview
Jetstream
On Friday (6/30) the jetstream was split over the South Pacific with most energy in the northern branch over the Southwest Pacific with winds to 180 kts but with the southern branch lifting north over New Zealand with winds 110 kts forming a weak trough offering limited support for low pressure development (but not gale development) with the merged branches then falling hard south into Antarctica on the dateline forming a strong ridge and continuing down there over the remainder of the South Pacific in the California swell window offering no support for gale development. Over the next 72 hours the New Zealand trough is to continue lifting northeast and being reinforced by 130 kts winds on Sat (7/1) offering improved support for gale development east of NZ and continuing into Monday (7/3). The ridge is to significantly weaken if not be nearly gone at the end of that window. Beyond 72 hours starting Tues (7/4) the trough is to hold while easing east of the New Zealand but with winds feeding it weakening some to 120 kts eventually dissipating on Thurs (7/6) over the Central South Pacific. But at that time the southern branch of the jet is to be steadily lifting northeast under New Zealand merging with the northern branch over the Central South Pacific with no indications of the split flow remaining. Perhaps a better pattern is setting up. We'll see if it holds.

Surface Analysis
On Friday (6/30) faint remnant swell was hitting California originating from a gale previously in the upper reaches of the South Central Pacific (see South Central Pacific Gale below). And swell from two gales previously in the far Southeast Pacific were tracking north towards Peru, Central America, Mexico and up into California (see First and Second Southern Pacific Gales below).

Over the next 72 hours a gale is forecast developing just south of New Zealand on Mon PM (7/3) producing 30-35 kt southwest winds with seas building from 23 ft at 50S 167E aimed north southeast. On Tues AM (7/4) the gale is to be building in coverage with 30-35 kts southwest winds aimed northeast and seas 24 ft at 47S 174E aimed northeast trying to get sufficient traction on the oceans surface. In the evening fetch is to continue while lifting northeast with seas 25 ft at 46S 180W aimed northeast. On Wed AM (7/5) 30-35 kts southwest winds continue nearly stationary with seas 26 ft at 43S 171W aimed northeast. In the evening southwest winds to be 35 kts with seas 27 ft at 47.25S 169.5W aimed northeast. Fetch is to be fading on Thurs AM (7/6) from 30-35 kts from the west with seas 26 ft at 44.5S 162.25W aimed northeast. Fetch and seas fading from there while tracking mostly due east. Something to monitor.

 

South Central Pacific Gale
A gale started developing over the upper reaches of the Central Pacific on Sat AM (6/17) producing a steady fetch of southeasterly winds at 35-40 kts with seas building some. In the evening southeast winds built to 40-45 kts with seas 27 ft at 44.75S 152.5W aimed north. On Sun AM (6/18) south to southeast winds were 35-40 kts with seas 31 ft at 42.75S 150.75W aimed north over a small area. In the evening south winds from the original fetch collapsed but a secondary fetch was developing with south winds 40+ kts over a tiny area and seas from the original fetch fading from 23 ft at 38N 148W aimed north. On Mon AM (6/19) fetch was rebuilding at 40-45 kts from the south with seas 25 ft at 50.75S 137W aimed north. In the evening south winds were 40-45 kts with seas 31 ft at 48.75S 139.75W aimed north. South fetch was fading Tues AM (6/20) from 35 kts and seas fading from 28 ft at 48S 143.5W aimed north. In the evening fetch is to be fading from 30-35 kts from the south with seas 25 ft at 40.5S 139W aimed north. Possible small swell for Hawaii and California.

Southern CA: Dribbles on Fri (6/30) from 1.6 ft @ 13 secs (2.0 ft). Swell Direction: 201 moving to 196 degrees

North CA: Dribbles on Fri (6/30) from 1.8 ft @ 13 secs (2.0-2.5 ft). Residuals on Sat (7/1) fading from 1.3 ft @ 12-13 secs (1.5 ft). Swell Direction: 201 moving to 196 degrees

 

First Southeast Pacific Gale
A tiny gale developed in the far Southeast Pacific on Sat PM (6/24) producing south winds at 45-50 kts with seas building from 27 ft at 55.5S 137W aimed northeast. On Sun AM (6/25) south winds were 45 kts over a tiny area aimed north and lifting northeast with seas 31 ft at 51.5S 131.75W aimed north. In the evening fetch was lifting north and fading from 35-40 kts over a tiny area with seas 30 ft at 46.25S 127.75W aimed north. On Mon AM (7/26) south fetch was rebuilding to 40 kts on the east edge of the Southern CA swell window with 27 ft seas fading at 44.25S 119.75W aimed north. In the evening 40 kt southwest fetch is to ease east of the CA swell window with seas 33 ft at 51.5S 115.5W and out of the CA swell window. Swell is radiating north.

Southern CA: Expect swell arrival on Sun (7/2) building to 1.0 ft @ 18-19 secs late (1.5-2.0 ft). On Mon (7/3) swell is to be building to 1.8 ft @ 16-17 secs later (3.0 ft). Swell continues on Tues (7/4) at 2.0 ft @ 15 secs (3.0 ft). Swell slowly fading on Wed (7/5) at 2.0 ft @ 13-14 secs (2.5 ft). Swell Direction: 185 degrees

North CA: Expect swell arrival on Mon (7/3) building to 1.7 ft @ 16-17 secs late (2.5-3.0 ft). Swell continues on Tues (7/4) at 2.1 ft @ 15-16 secs (3.0 ft). Swell slowly fading on Wed (7/5) ft at 2.1 ft @ 14 secs early (2.5-3.0 ft). Swell fading on Thurs (7/6) from 1.8 ft @ 13 secs early (2.0-2.5 ft). Swell Direction: 184 degrees

 

Second Southeast Pacific Gale
On Mon AM (6/26) another small gale developed deep in the Southeast Pacific with 40 kt southwest winds and seas building from 23 ft at 60.75S 142.75W aimed northeast. In the evening south fetch built while lifting northeast at 45 kts with seas 29 ft at 60S 133W. On Tues AM (6/27) the gale was lifting northeast with 40 kt southwest winds and seas building to 33 ft at 56S 127W aimed northeast. In the evening fetch was tracking northeast while fading from 30-35 kts with seas 28 ft at 50.25S 123W aimed northeast. On Wed AM (6/28) fetch held at 35 kts from the southwest with seas 26 ft at 44S 119.5W aimed northeast on the edge of the California swell window. The gale faded out from there.

Southern CA: Expect swell arrival on Wed (7/5) building to 1.9 ft @ 17 secs later (3.0 ft). On Thurs (7/6) swell is to be building to 2.3 ft @ 15-16 secs mid-day (3.5 ft). Swell continues on Fri (7/7) at 2.5 ft @ 14 secs early (3.0-3.5 ft). Swell slowly fading on Sat (7/8) from 2.2 ft @ 13 secs (2.5 ft) early. Swell Direction: 183 degrees

North CA: Expect swell arrival on Wed (7/5) building to 1.6 ft @ 17-18 secs later (2.5-3.0 ft). On Thurs (7/6) swell is to be building to 2.2 ft @ 15-16 secs later (3.5 ft). Swell continues on Fri (7/7) at 2.4 ft @ 14 secs (3.0-3.5 ft). Swell slowly fading on Sat (7/8) from 2.3 ft @ 13-14 secs early (3.0 ft) early. Dribbles on Sun (7/9) fading from 1.7 ft @ 12-13 secs early (2.0 ft). Swell Direction: 182 degrees

 

South Pacific Animations: Jetstream - Surface Pressure/Wind - Sea Height - Surf Height

 

QuikCAST's

 

LONG-TERM FORECAST
Marine weather and forecast conditions 3-10 days into the future

North Pacific

Beyond 72 hours no swell producing weather systems of interest are forecast.

 

South Pacific

Beyond 72 hours no swell producing weather systems of interest are forecast.

 

MJO/ENSO Forecast

 

El Nino Building at the Oceans Surface and Trying to Couple with the Atmosphere
Kelvin Wave #4 Poised to Erupt - Kelvin Wave #5 Developing in the West - Active MJO #6 Done Likely Producing Another Kelvin Wave
NINO3.4 In El Nino Territory and Rising While Expanding Fast

1 Kelvin Wave traversed the Pacific in Dec '22 with a 2nd in Jan-Feb and a 3rd and 4th in March-April and a 5th developing now. And Westerly Winds are fully established filling the KWGA. Sea Surface Temperatures continue warming. The last link in the chain is to see the SOI falling deep into negative territory which it appears it is doing. The atmosphere is starting to become coupled with the ocean. The outlook is optimistic.

MJO/ENSO Discussion
The Madden Julian Oscillation (MJO) is a periodic weather cycle that tracks east along the equator circumnavigating the globe. It is characterized in it's Inactive Phase by enhanced trade winds and dry weather over the part of the equator it is in control of, and in it's Active Phase by slackening if not an outright reversing trade winds while enhancing precipitation. The oscillation occurs in roughly 20-30 day cycles (Inactive for 20-30 days, then Active for 20-30 days) over any single location on the planet, though most noticeable in the Pacific. During the Active Phase in the Pacific the MJO tends to support the formation of stronger and longer lasting gales resulting in enhanced potential for the formation of swell producing storms. Prolonged and consecutive Active MJO Phases in the Pacific help support the formation of El Nino. During the Inactive Phase the jet stream tends to split resulting in high pressure and less potential for swell producing storm development. Wind anomalies in the Kelvin Wave Generation Area (KWGA) are key for understanding what Phase the MJO is in over the Pacific. The KWGA is located on the equator from 135E-170W and 5 degs north and south (or on the equator from New Guinea east to the dateline). West wind anomalies in the KWGA suggest the Active Phase of the MJO in the Pacific, and east anomalies suggests the Inactive Phase. In turn the Active Phase strengthens and the Inactive Phase weakens the jetstream, which in turn enhances or dampens storm production respectively in the Pacific.And the El Nino/La Nino cycle (collectively know as ENSO - El Nino Southern Oscillation) is a less frequent (about once every 7 years) but more impactful cycle that affects world wide weather. Specifically, strong El Nino events promote storm production in the Pacific while La Nina events suppress storm production. These therefore have a significant impact on the production of swell and surf. The paragraphs below analyze the state of the MJO and ENSO in the Pacific and provide forecasts for upcoming activity (or inactivity depending on the state and interaction of these two oscillations).

Overview: In 2019 warm equatorial waters were fading, and by August a tongue of cool water was tracking west on the equator from Ecuador over the Galapagos reaching to a point nearly south of Hawaii. A bit of a recovery tried to occur during Fall of 2019, with weak warm water building in the Nino 1.2 region, but cool water held in a pool off Peru. By April 2020 a cool pool was starting to build, forming a well defined cool tongue that evolved into La Nina, with it fully developing through July 2020. That basically continued until late Fall 2022 when trades started fading and by early 2023 multiple Kelvin Waves were in flight with significant warming developing over the East Equatorial Pacific. La Nina was dead on 3/18/2023 with El Nino apparently developing.

LONG-RANGE PACIFIC STORM AND SWELL GENERATION POTENTIAL FORECAST
Summer 2023 = 3.7 (California & Hawaii)
Rating based on a 1-10 scale: 1 being the lowest (small and infrequent surf conditions), 5 being normal/average, and 10 being extraordinary (frequent events of large, long period swells)

Rationale: A 3 year La Nina started fading in Jan 2023 and was gone by April. 3 Active MJO's produced 3 Kelvin Waves with the 3rd in that series poised to start erupting off Ecuador now (May 2023). The CFS model is predicting steady west anomalies from here forward and the leading edge of the low pressure bias on the dateline and forecast to nearly fill the Pacific during June. We are in a state of transition from ENSO neutral to El Nino during the summer of 2023. As a result we will be moving from a period of reduced number of storm days and storm intensity during the early part of Summer towards a period of enhanced storm production starting Late July and beyond, getting fairly intense come Fall. This should result in a slightly below normal level of swells, with swells being below normal duration and period over early Summer. But by late July 2023, the number of storm days, intensity and duration of those storms should start improving as El Nino starts getting a solid footprint on the atmosphere. The net result is we're currently thinking a near normal number of swells with normal size and duration is to result, but all focused sometime after late July 2023. The swell pattern will be normal to somewhat below normal before July and above normal after July 23. And By Sept, the El Nino footprint should be solid. Of course this is all highly speculative at this early and based mostly on the CFS model and it's projection of a building ENSO footprint getting solid by Sept.

KWGA/Equatorial Surface Wind Analysis (KWGA - Kelvin Wave Generation Area - The area 5 degrees north and south of the equator from 170W to 135E)
Analysis (TAO Buoys): As of (6/29) 5 day average winds were strong from the east over the East equatorial Pacific and strong east over the Central Pacific and light west over the KWGA. Anomalies were neutral over the East equatorial Pacific and modest east over the Central Pacific and modest west over the KWGA. (Note: These are 5 day average winds, versus realtime, so they lag what is happening today (by about 2.5 days).
2 Week Forecast (GFS Model): (6/30) Modest east anomalies were filling the majority of the KWGA extending over the dateline and points east of there. Modest east anomalies are to hold through 7/9, then start fading as light west anomalies start to build in the West KWGA and then filling the KWGA by 7/13 and holding through the end of the model run on 7/16.
Kelvin Wave Generation Area wind monitoring model: West and East

MJO/WWB/Wind Projections:  
OLR Models: (6/29) A neutral MJO was over the KWGA today. The statistical model indicates a neutral MJO pattern in control on days 5 through 15 of the model run. The dynamic model indicates the same thing initially but with a modest Inactive MJO signal on days 5 and 10 of the model run fading to neutral on day 15.
Phase Diagrams - 2 week forecast (CA and GEFS): (6/30) The statistical model depicts the Active signal was weak over the Central Indian Ocean and is to ease east to the East Maritime Continent 15 days out and very weak. The dynamic model indicates it moving around in the Central Indian Ocean and weak making no significant eastward progress.
40 day Upper Level Model (assumed to be a statistical mode and 1 week ahead of what is occurring at the surface): (6/30) A modest Inactive (dry) pattern was over the East Pacific with a modest Active (wet) pattern over the West Pacific today. The forecast has the Inactive Phase (dry air) pushing slowly east while fading and moving in to Ecuador on 7/5 while the Active Phase (wet air) slowly moves east over the KWGA through 7/15 then continuing east while fading over the East Pacific and gone by 8/4. A moderate Inactive signal (dry air) is to start building over the KWGA on 7/20 easing east and filling the KWGA at the end of the model run on 8/9.
4 Week CFS Model (850 mb wind): (6/29)
Today weak east anomalies were indicated over the far west KWGA but with west anomalies holding from 150E over the dateline with no MJO signal indicated. The forecast indicates no MJO signal forecast moving forward but with east anomalies fading on 7/5 and and west anomalies building in coverage and strength at moderate strength over the core of the KWGA 7/5-7/18, then fading to modest strength and holding filling the KWGA through the end of the model run on 7/27.
3 Month CFS Model (850 mb wind):
(6/30) - using the 5th ensemble member - the mean of the 4 individual members which are all from the 00Z run - 1 run per day):
Today the Inactive Phase of the MJO was holding over the KWGA but with weak west anomalies in control. The Inactive Phase is to slowly traverse the KWGA finally gone on 7/16 but with west anomalies weakly in control and starting to build 7/2 to modest status 7/12-7/18. The Active Phase is to start building 7/18 and filling the KWGA and holding through 9/9. West anomalies are to build during this window and strong 7/28-9/2. the Inactive Phase is to follow 9/1 through the end of the model run on 9/27 but with modest west anomalies still in control. Basically west anomalies are forecast 7/8 and beyond. El Nino is developing. The shift to El Nino started on 2/15. The low pass filter indicates a high pressure bias with 1 contour line centered at 115W with its western perimeter at 125W today and well east of the KWGA and moving east to 120W in Aug and tracking slowly east from there and all but gone by late Sept. A broad low pressure bias is established over the West KWGA centered at 170E with 3 contour lines and it's leading edge well east of the dateline at 145W today (it started pushing east on 2/15). A more gradual push east is occurring and is to continue into 7/18 with it's leading edge then stalling at 135W filling most of the Pacific with the third contour line holding till 8/1. The primarily contours leading edge is to be locked at 135W at the end of the model run with it's center at 170E. This is all a big deal and is being repeated in some form consistently from one run of the model to the next since Oct 2022. It appears a strong El Nino is developing.

CFSv2 3 month forecast for 850 mb winds, MJO, Rossby etc - Alternate link

Subsurface Waters Temps
TAO Array: (6/30) Today in the far West Pacific the leading edge of the 30 deg isotherm was present and steady at 177E (from 172E) with the 29 degree isotherm backtracking from 157W to 162W. The 28 deg isotherm line was steady at 122W. The 26 degree isotherm extended the whole way across the Pacific and was stable at 65 m down in the far East. Anomaly wise, warm anomalies at +2 deg C started at 168W pushing east with +3-7 degs anomalies over the East Pacific starting at 140W. +6 degree anomalies were from 116W into Ecuador. Amazing. The hi-res GODAS animation posted 6/22 indicates a huge very warm stream of +2-3 degs anomalies extending from the far West Pacific and building while tracking east and then upwards from there over the far East Pacific with +4-5 degs anomalies from Kelvin Wave #3-4 erupting there into Ecuador. A new Kelvin Wave was building on the dateline between 175E to 150W at +3-4 degs (Kelvin Wave #5) while another pocket of warming waters were in the West Pacific at 120E at +2 degs (Kelvin Wave #6). No cool anomalies were indicated. El Nino is developing. The GODAS animation is 1 week behind the TAO data but also is more detailed and accurately depicted since its satellite based.
Sea Level Anomalies: (6/22) Sea heights were positive across the equatorial Pacific at +0-5 cms solid connected to a +10 cms pocket from 130W east into Ecuador. Positive anomalies extending north into Central America and south to Chile. This means no cool water was at depth. Per the Upper Ocean Heat Anomaly Histogram warm water continues building in intensity and coverage at +1.00-2.00 degs over the East Pacific from 170E and east of there. Some decline in temps were occurring west of the dateline. Otherwise there's been no change since mid March, a steady flow of warm water pushing east.

Surface Water Temps
The more warm water in the equatorial East Pacific means more storm production in the North Pacific during winter months (roughly speaking). Cold water in that area has a dampening effect. Regardless of what the atmospheric models and surface winds suggest, actual water temperatures are a ground-truth indicator of what is occurring in the ocean. All data is from blended infrared and microwave sensors.
Satellite Imagery
Hi-res Nino1.2 & 3.4 Qualitative Analysis: (6/29) The latest images depict a strong warm signal along the coasts of Peru and Ecuador with lesser but still serious heat extending up Mexico reaching the tip of Baja with a stable tongue extending west over the Galapagos continuing along the equator reaching west beyond the dateline and a warmer core to 135W. This is a clear El Nino signal. And warmer than normal temps were present well off the coasts of Chile and Peru. The classic El Nino triangle was developing. The last remnants of La Nina are gone on the equator but remnants are still evident along the California and Baja coast with cold temps and a Springtime upwelling pattern in control there and likely be reinforced over the next week.
Hi-res 7 day Trend (6/29): A neutral pattern over the entire equatorial Pacific. A few small areas of light warming were between Ecuador and 100W. It's not surprising there's no clear signal of warming along Ecuador because temps are already so warm they can't get much warmer. A neutral trend was along the coasts of Chile and Peru. The pattern of adding energy to the warm surface pool is stable. A warming trend had been well entrenched over the East Pacific since Nov 1 with no cooling waters over the equatorial East Pacific since 12/15 except for the time frame from 4/23 to today.
Hi-res Overview: (6/29) Warmer than normal waters are filling the East Pacific off Chile, Peru, Ecuador and north up to Mexico with strong warming in a few pockets along the immediate cost of Peru and Ecuador. And the classic El Nino tongue of more intense warming is building considerably over the equator west to the dateline and beyond. No cool waters were on the equator anymore. Everything is now looking like El Nino. The east equatorial Pacific is steadily warming.
Nino1.2 Daily CDAS Index Temps: (6/30) (These temps are biased high by about 0.2 degs compared to official sources). Today's temps are rising from +2.451 to +2.8 today after building/peaking at +2.7926 on 6/13 and have been up in the +2.0 to +3.0 degs range since 4/1 having previously peaked at +2.891 (4/13). Previously temps reached +2.302 degrees on 4/6, +1.732 degs (3/22), up from +0.462 since 2/28. Temps had reached as high as +1.076 on 2/19 and were previously steady at +0.848 since 2/7. Previously they started steadily rising 11/13 when they were around -1.5 degs C.
Nino 3.4 Daily CDAS Index Temps:
(6/30) (These temps are biased high by about 0.2 degs). Today temps are fading some at +0.777 after being steady at +0.895 (3 days near 6/25) after being in the +0.712 range the previous 9 days after previously rising to +0.975 on 6/9. We are now 29 days into a trend of being above the El Nino threshold (for the 2nd time). Temps reached the El Nino threshold for the first time on 5/17 at +0.507 then quickly fell over the next 10 days down to +0.378 (5/26). Previous peaks of +0.318 on 4/30 besting the previous peak at +0.199 on 4/21. Temps have been steadily increasing hitting 0.0 on 4/12 and were then more or less steady the previous 4 weeks. Temps previously rose to -0.402 on 2/23. Temps rose above the La Nina threshold (-0.5 degs) on 2/22 and had been rising slowly since 2/12 when they were about -1.0 degs C. They had been in the -1.0 deg range since at least Nov 2022.

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CFSV2 Forecast for Nino3.4 Sea Surface Temp (SST) Anomalies & Current SST Anomalies

SST Anomaly Projections
CFSv2 Data (Nino3.4 Region)
Previous - Temps rose in early Nov 2020 after bottoming out at -1.25 degs, up to -0.01 degs in mid-June 2021 then fading to -1.05 degs in mid-Nov then rebuilding to -0.7 in mid Feb 2022 then fading to -1.1 degs in May before starting an upward climb peaking in mid-June at -0.65 degs and mid July at -0.55 degs. A steady decline set in after that falling to -1.00 degs in Aug and Sept rising to -0.8 degs mid Oct then falling to -1.0 in Nov but then slowly rising to -0.75 degs in Jan 2023 and up to -0.5 degs (above the La Nina threshold) on 2/12. Temps were +0.45 degs today.
Forecast (6/30) - Temps are above In the El Nino range at +0.9 degs and are to hold into mid July then rising to +1.75 degs in Oct-Nov and solidly into El Nino territory. The PDF Corrected forecast suggests temps are forecast falling from +0.95 degs in June to +0.75 degs in mid-July then slowly rising to +1.30 degs in Nov/Dec. According to this version of the model we are building into El Nino through the Summer. But max temps are down from previous runs.
IRI Consensus Plume: The June 16, 2023 Plume (all models) depicts temps are +1.120 degs today and it's the 4th month above the La Nina threshold. Temps to rise steadily from here forward to +1.298 in July and up to +1.466 degrees in Oct then fading from there. The dynamic model suggest temps peaking at +1.761 in Oct. The CFS model is on the upper range of all models but 3 of 17 are higher still.
See chart here - link.

Atmospheric Coupling (Indicating the presence of El Nino in the atmosphere driven by the ocean):
Southern Oscillation Index (SOI) (negative is good, positive bad - all but the Daily Index was a lagging indicator):
Today (6/30) the Daily Index was positive at +17.22 and has been positive the last 8 days, but had been negative 11 days prior. It was positive 5 days previous to that then negative for 27 days previous ending 6/6 with a peak down to -29.32 on 5/31, -64.63 on 5/24 and -31.31 on 5/12. Previously readings were toggling between +10 and -10 for 13 days, but negative the 15 days previous to that, positive the 6 days prior to that after being mostly negative 25 days before that. It fell to -19.40 on 4/2. -17.44 on 2/22, the beginning of a change from which no return seemed likely. It was up to +21.85 on 2/10 and +55.74 on 12/22 and were in the +20 range the previous 22 days.
The 30 day average was rising at -3.19. It previously fell to -19.64 on 6/5 had been falling to -4.13 on 4/4 (lagging indicator driven by the Active Phase of the MJO) after falling to -0.52 on 3/22 previously falling to +4.18 on 11/27 and peaking at +21.57 (10/16) after supposedly peaking at +19.66 on 9/28. It was down to +6.89 on 7/29. It peaked at +20.34 (5/12) the highest in a year and beating last years high of +19.51 (1/14).
The 90 day average was rising at -6.57 and turned negative the first time in years on 5/12. A recent max low was -7.57 on 6/6. It previously peaked at +14.63 on 2/20, +15.61 on 10/25 and +12.92 on 8/11 and that after peaking at +18.40 (7/2) beating it's previous peak of +16.86 (5/31), the highest in a year. It previously peaked at +9.80 (9/21) after falling to it's lowest point in a year at +1.06 (6/9). The 90 day average peaked at +15.75 (2/23/21 - clearly indicative of La Nina then). This index is a lagging indicator but suggests that the Active Phase occurring now is starting to drive the index down, hopefully with no upward trend in sight for at least a year.

Pacific Decadal Oscillation
The PDO theoretically turned from a 16 year negative run (Jan 98-Feb 2014) in early 2014 and was positive till Dec 2019, but has been negative ever since, driven by recent La Nina conditions. In May-July 2021 it was the most negative its been in the -1.80 to -2.04 range since Sept 2012 (-2.99) and then fell to -3.16 in Oct 2021 (the lowest since July 1933) then settled at -2.72 in Nov and Dec 2021. Looking at the long term record, it seems likely we are still in the Cool Phase of the PDO (La Nina 'like') with no signs of moving to the positive/warm phase (El Nino 'like').

See imagery in the ENSO Powertool 


Powerlines Jeff Clark Inside Mavericks

Local Interest
Stormsurf Video Surf Forecast for this week. See it Here
For automatic notification of forecast updates, subscribe to the Stormsurf001 YouTube channel - just click the 'Subscribe' button below the video.

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NBC News - Climate Change and Surfing: https://www.nbcnews.com/mach/science/climate-change-good-surfing-other-sports-not-so-much-ncna1017131

Mavericks & Stormsurf on HBO Sports with Bryant Gumbel https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=luQSYf5sKjQ

Pieces Featuring Stormsurf:
http://www.bloomberg.com/video/how-to-predict-the-best-surfing-waves-EsNiR~0xR5yXGOlOq2MqfA.html
http://www.cbsnews.com/videos/surfs-up-for-mavericks-invitational-in-calif/

Time Zone Converter By popular demand we've built and easy to use time convert that transposes GMT time to whatever time zone you are located. It's ion left hand column on every page on the site near the link to the swell calculator.

Surf Height-Swell Height Correlation Table

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