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Pacific Storm and Surf Forecast
Updated: June 12, 2007 9:15 PM
Buoys: Northern CA - Southern CA - Hawaii - Gulf of Alaska - Pacific Northwest
Buoy Forecast:
Northern CA - Southern CA - Hawaii - Gulf of Alaska - Pacific Northwest
Pacific Links:  Atmospheric Models - Buoy Data - Current Weather - Wave Models
Forecast Archives: Enter Here
A chronology of recent Mavericks Underground forecasts. Once you enter, just click on the HTML file forecast you want to review (e.g. 073199.html equals July 31, 1999). To view the maps that correspond to that forecast date, select the html file labeled 073199 maps.html
Click Here to Visit Killer Dana!
Swell Potential Rating = 1.0 - California & 3.0 - Hawaii
Using the 'Summer' Scale
(See Swell Category Table link at bottom of page)
Probability for presence of largest swells in near-shore waters of NCal, SCal or Hawaii.    
Issued for Week of Monday 6/11 thru Sun 6/17
Swell Potential Rating Categories
5 = Good probability for 3 or more days of Significant swell
4 = Good probability for 1-2 days of Significant swell
3 = Good probability for 3 or more days of Utility swell
2 = Good probability for  1-2 days of Utility swell
1 = Good probability for 3 or more days of Impulse or Windswell
0 = Low probability for 1-2 days of Impulse or Windswell   

S. Hemi Swell Moves Towards Hawaii
Windswell To Dominate West Coast


On Tuesday (6/12) Northern CA surf was head high to 2 ft overhead with rare sets 2 ft bigger still and a jumbled mess. South facing breaks in Santa Cruz were waist to chest high and occasionally more. Central California surf (Morro Bay) was head high with sets 1 ft more. Southern CA from Santa Barbara to just north of LA was thigh to waist high at the best breaks. The LA Area southward to Orange County was waist to chest high at the best breaks. Southward from Orange County into San Diego best breaks were waist to chest high. The North Shore of Oahu was flat. The South Shore was waist high. The East Shore report was not available.

North/Central California continued getting a sizeable mix of local windswell.cgius windswell from off Oregon. Southern California was getting some wrap-around windswell from off Cape Mendocino and Oregon. Hawaii was getting the fading last little bits of southern hemi swell on the South Shore but the North Shore was flat. Another moderate pulse of southern hemi swell is pushing north towards Hawaii originating from a tiny fetch mid-last week off eastern New Zealand, setting up something fun for the week ahead. Minimal easterly windswell expected too. But nothing is scheduled for the North Shore. For the mainland a second weak low pressure system is in the Eastern Gulf of Alaska and barely in the North CA swell window. This to be providing limited reinforcements combined with more local windswell providing something rideable for California. A little bit's of the southern hemi swell scheduled for Hawaii mid-week is to be pushing towards the mainland too, but smaller. Longterm the South Pacific remains dominated by high pressure with no change forecast. After the little pulse expected for Hawaii and California, a flat spell is to really set in and continue for quite some time. See details below...


Current marine weather and wave analysis.cgius forecast conditions for the next 72 hours

North Pacific

Tuesdays jetstream charts (6/12) for the North Pacific indicated a very weak flow limping east from off Kamchatka into Washington with peak winds near 120 kts off the Pacific Northwest coast providing the thinnest of margins to support low pressure development. Over the next 72 hours that one little area to hold if not a.cgiify with winds to 140 kts early Wednesday (6/13), then pushing onshore and fading away. Virtually nothing forecast west of there. Beyond 72 hours the bulk of the jet to move north of the Aleutians and decay even more with only a thin little stream dipping somewhat south through the Gulf of Alaska. No real support for surface level low pressure development forecast.

At the surface today weak low pressure at 1000 mbs was off Washington state driving a tiny area of 30 kts northwest winds towards the PAcific Northwest and Northern CA. Seas up to 18 ft forecast late. Limited support for windswell development. Otherwise high pressure at 1024 mbs was 900 nmiles west of Pt Conception CA generating a 25 kt northerly flow over the Cape Mendocino coast producing limited short period windswell. This high was also generating moderate easterly trades pushing towards the Hawaiian Islands at 20 kts perhaps setting up limited short period windswell along eastern shores. Over the next 72 hrs the low off the Pacific Northwest to push inland Wednesday allowing high pressure to take control, setting up a solid fetch of 25-30 kt north winds over Cape Mendocino continuing through Thursday (6/14) and providing good potential for windswell north of Pt Conception. Fetch from that high to also wrap towards the Hawaiian Islands Thursday into Friday providing decent potential for short period windswell along northeast shores.

Tropical depression 3E was 400 nmiles south of Cabo San Lucas tracking generally west with sustained winds at 25 kts. A slow decay with continued westerly heading forecast. No swell producing potential forecast.


North Pacific Animations: Jetstream - Surface Pressure/Wind - Sea Height - Surf Height


California Offshore Forecast
On Tuesday (6/12) high pressure at 1026 mbs was 900 nmiles west of Pt Conception ridging into California generating a moderate northerly flow in the 20-25 kt range centered between Cape Mendocino and Big Sur. Windswell was occurring at exposed breaks enhanced by windswell pushing out of the Gulf of Alaska thanks to low pressure there over the past weekend. Yet another low was off Oregon today with 30 kt northwest winds generating 18 ft seas and setting up more windswell pushing south and expected to impact the coast early Friday (6/15). That low to be inland Wednesday (6/13) with high pressure again taking control, generating more northerly winds off Pt Reyes at 30 kts building in areal coverage Thursday with windswell on the way up. A brief pause forecast Friday then more of the same just re-located off Cape Mendocino Saturday (6/16) continuing through Monday. More sizeable windswell (by summertime standards) expected. A rapid fade forecast after that.


South Pacific

Tuesdays jetstream charts (6/12) for the South Pacific indicating a totally .cgiit flow pushing across the width of the ocean there with the southern branch moving over the 62S latitude at 110 kts with no troughs of interest noted. No hints of any support for surface level low pressure development. Over the next 72 hours through Friday (6/15) a ridge to build in the southern branch pushing well south over the Ross Ice Shelf and totally shutting down any potential for swell producing low pressure there. Beyond 72 hours more of the same is forecast, though the ridge is to lessen and actually start lifting north well east of the California swell window, favoring only the southern tip of South America through mid-next week. Otherwise a major ridge to continue pushing south over the Ross Ice Shelf and squashing any low pressure development over the greater South Pacific.

At the surface today dual high pressure systems at 1040 mbs remained in firm control of the upper reaches of the South-Central Pacific pushing south to the 60S latitude driving the storm track flat to the south. Weak low pressure was tracking east under the highs generating only limited 30-35 kt fetch all aimed directly towards southern South America. No support for any swell pushing north towards either Hawaii or California. Over the next 72 hours things to get much worse as the west-most of the pair of controlling high pressure systems surges south Wednesday (6/13) setting up a solid fetch of 35 kt winds blowing right into the Ross Ice Shelf and totally shutting down the South Pacific storm corridor through Thursday and hindering it severely there after. Some 40 kt fetch is to develop off South America Friday but aimed right at the coast there, with no energy pushing north towards either Hawaii or California. This is not an encouraging pattern.


Hawaiian Pulse
Late Wednesday into early Thursday (6/7) a 960 mb low was pushing under New Zealand with much of it's fetch impacting the southern tip of the peninsula. An 18 hour fetch of 40-45 kt winds slid just east of there generating a short-lived area of 30 ft seas aimed well at Hawaii up the 200 degree great circle path. This was just enough to send limited swell northeast towards the Islands. A secondary fetch of 40 kts winds built in the same area early Friday (6/8) pushing a bit north and producing 29 ft seas.

Swell from these two systems expected to arrive in Hawaii starting Wednesday (6/13) with swell building to 2 ft @ 17 secs (3 ft faces) late. By Thursday AM (6/14) swell top start peaking near 3 ft @ 15 secs (4.0-4.5 ft faces) with secondary energy arriving Friday (6/15) at the same size, or 3 ft @ 15-16 secs (4.5 ft faces). Swell starting to head down Saturday (6/16) from 3 ft @ 14-15 secs (4.0-4.5 ft faces). Swell Direction: 200 degrees

Background swell from this system to possibly limp into both North and South California Saturday (6/16) peaking Sunday with swell 2.5 ft @ 15-16 secs (3.5 ft faces). 15 sec energy to continue at the same size Monday, then fading. Swell Direction: 213-218 degrees


South Pacific Animations: Jetstream - Surface Pressure/Wind - Sea Height - Surf Height




Marine weather and forecast conditions 3-10 days into the future

North Pacific

Beyond 72 hours a broad high pressure pattern to take hold of the Northeast Pacific with pressure 1036 mbs centered just east of the dateline and covering through the Gulf of Alaska ridging to the Pacific Northwest and California late Friday (6/15). North winds to again start building over Cape Mendocino Saturday through Monday (6/18) at 25-30 kts generating windswell north of Pt Conception. Trades to also continue over the Hawaiian Islands at 20 kts into Saturday (6/16) with local windswell likely, then fading as yet another weak low sets up in the Gulf of Alaska early next week. This low to possibly send another shot of 25 kt northwest winds towards the Pacific Northwest, but that's pure speculation at this point.

South Pacific

Beyond 72 hours high pressure at 1040 mbs to continue it's hold of the southern reaches of the Southeast Pacific continuing to direct all wind energy due east and out of the California and Hawaiian swell windows. But next Tuesday (6/19) the models suggest that the high pressure pattern to weaken under New Zealand with a weak primer low setting up just east of New Zealand. Though no winds of interest are forecast, a second more energetic system is to be pushing under New Zealand mid-next week with 40-45 kt winds building aimed somewhat up the great circle paths to California and Hawaii. Far from guaranteed, but this provides a glimmer of hope for the weeks ahead.

Details to follow...

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Local Interest

Jason-1 Satellite Data On-line and Improved!: Our Jason-1 satellite data was upgraded yet again Wednesday PM (6/6) and is now operating better than ever. We've added a feature that averages the data every 15 measurements on the local views and every 50 measurements on the global view (1 measurement every 3 nautical miles) and overlays the results onto the wave model chart. Both the single highest measurement on the chart and the highest 15 measurement average are posted at the bottom of each chart. This seems to work real well and compensates for the very spiky nature of the raw data coming off the satellite. So we now have an effective way to verify the accuracy (or lack of) the wave model output. See the data here:

Comprehensive guides to surfing Costa Rica, Nicaragua, Baja and Mainland Mexico: They ain't pretty. They ain't glossy. They ain't coffee table picture books. These are guides for surfers who want real, useful information. Since 1996 The Surfer's Guides have always provided more info, more detail, more tips, and have been updated more often than any other surf travel guides. Take a look here:

Surfing's Greatest Misadventures: We've been reading a great book of short stories all based around surfing adventures, but not in classical sense. These are stories of surf trips gone bad, personal growth and realizations while on surf trips, silly things that happen while surfing right on up to horrifying shark attacks, and some great nostalgic tails of surfers versus the Marines at Trestles back in the early days. A truly enjoyable, easy to read and entertaining look at the culture and pe.cgie that make up the surf community. Check it out here:

STORMSURF on the News: NBC-11 came to visit Stormsurf last week to talk about the Mavericks Surf Contest and surf forecasting. See the piece here: Click on 'Mavericks Forecaster'

Surf Video Clips at - Check out this new website dedicated soley to high quality - high action surf clips from around the world. Great action form Morocco, Hawaii, Mexico, California and many more spots all streaming right to your desktop. Piles of fun and hours on enjoyment. Check it out now at:

High Noon and Low Tide: Eric Nelson has remastered this epic Mavericks documentary covering a week of giant surf leading up to that fateful day of 12/23/94 when we lost Mark Foo. See all the footage with archived and recent interviews of all the best riders including Grant Washburn, Doc Renneker, Evan Slater, Peter Mel and more. This is a must-have piece for any serious Maverick collection. Available at local surfshops. Will be coming to an on-line store shortly.

New Book: Inside Mavericks - Portrait of a Monster Wave: Ace photographer Doug Acton, cinematographer Grant Washburn and San Francisco Chronicle writer Bruce Jenkins have teamed up to present an insiders view of Mavericks. Read all the first hand accounts from Peter Mel, Ken 'Skin Dog' Collins, Grant Washburn, Mark Renniker and the rest of the gang as they describe the game of surfing one of the largest waves in the world, fully illustrated with the hauntingly artistic images from Doug Acton, long-time Mavericks lensman. There's even a section featuring Stormsurf! Get your autographed copy here:

Stormsurf Google Gadget - Want Stormsurf content on your Google Homepage? It's si.cgie and free. If you have Google set as your default Internet E.cgiorer Homepage, just click the link below and a buoy forecast will be added to your Google homepage. Defaults to Half Moon Bay CA. If you want to select a different location, just click on the word 'edit', and a list of alternate available locations appears. Pick the one of your choice. Content updates 4 times daily. A great way to see what waves are coming your way! .xml

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Surf Height-Swell Height Correlation Table


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