Swell Classification Guidelines
Significant: Winter - Swell 8 ft @ 14 secs or greater (11+ ft faces) for 8+ hours (greater than double overhead).
Summer - Head high or better.
Advanced: Winter - Swell and period combination capable of generating faces 1.5 times overhead to double overhead (7-10 ft)
Summer - Chest to head high.
Intermediate/Utility Class: Winter - Swell and period combination generating faces at head high to 1.5 times overhead (4-7 ft).
Summer - Waist to chest high.
Impulse/Windswell: Winter - Swell and period combination generating faces up to head high (1-4 ft) or anything with a period less than 11 secs.
Summer - up to waist high swell. Also called 'Background' swell.
Next Forecast Update: Scheduled sometime over the Labor Day weekend. Gone Surfing
On Thursday (9/1) North and Central California was seeing Swell #7S fully hitting with waves 7-8 ft and sets 10-11 ft but overpowering most breaks due to the long period and a bit raw. 15-20 wave sets on occasion early. Local winds were south up north and calm early turning west in Santa Cruz by about 1:30 PM. There was north windswell in the mix but it was buried in under the south swell. Southern California was head high plus from Swell #7S up north and pretty bumpy in the afternoon. Down south Swell #7S was 3 ft overhead with occasional sets to 9-10 ft and pretty bumped up in the afternoon and even down south early into San Diego. Hawaii's North Shore was effectively flat. The South Shore was still getting Swell #7S with waves head high to 2 ft overhead or even more and clean with light trades and very lined up. Quite nice overall. Things returning to normal. The East Shore was small with thigh high easterly tradewind generated windswell with moderately chopped conditions.
See QuikCASTs for the 5 day surf overview or read below for the detailed view
The Northeast Pacific high pressure system was back in control producing north winds to 30 kts off Cape Mendocino and expected to hold into early Saturday resulting in local north windswell down into Central CA. Trades were up slightly over Hawaii at 15 kts but expected to fade by mid-Friday with no real windswell expected. A tropical system remains forecast to push into mid-Japan on Friday nearly stationary in the far West Pacific and is expected to now track north and up into Central Japan by Saturday (9/3). The model continue teasing about a broad low pressure system developing in the Gulf early next week with 30 kt northwest winds. Some rideable swell might result. But the focus for the mainland continues on a very strong storm that developed southeast of New Zealand Tues-Wed (8/24) with 50 ft seas holding nearly 36 hours tracking east-northeastward. A very solid long period swell for it is now hitting California, the last stop on it's sweep from Tahiti up through Hawaii and into Central America and the US. Beyond a modest gale is forecast developing east of New Zealand on Sat (9/3) with 32-34 ft seas aimed pretty well to the north with swell likely for Hawaii and dribbles for the mainland and a little more for Central America. ln all not too bad.
SHORT- TERM FORECAST
Current marine weather and wave analysis plus forecast conditions for the next 72 hours
At the surface on Thursday (9/1) high pressure at 1028 mbs filling the Northeast Pacific with a second high at 1032 mbs in the Northwest Pacific and weak low pressure in between just south of the Eastern Aleutians. The Northeast Pacific high was generating north winds at 25-30 kts over Cape Mendocino CA extending 25 kts winds down off San Francisco with light trades at 15 kts extending into Hawaii. North windswell was the result in Central CA and bare minimal east windswell into East Shores of the Hawaiian Islands. Otherwise no swell producing fetch was indicated. Over the next 72 hours the high is to east east into the Pacific Northwest continuing a steady fetch of north winds to 30 kts isolated more off Cape Mendocino through early Saturday. Moderate north windswell with period in the 9 sec range expected for Central CA down into Southern CA. An eddy flow is forecast nearshore for all of Central and South CA. But with the high moving onshore, trades to fade into Hawaii by mid-Friday with east short period windswell fading out. Weak low pressure is to try and develop in the extreme Northern Gulf on Friday with west winds to 30 kts, but not getting any real traction and seas only 12 ft. No swell to result.
North Pacific Animations: Jetstream - Surface Pressure/Wind - Sea Height - Surf Height
Tropical Storm 15W Talas developed out of low pressure in the West Pacific late Wednesday (8/24) and as of Thursday AM it was tracking north positioned 900 nmiles south of Tokyo Japan. By Sunday it was effectively stationary still 750 nmiles south of Tokyo with winds 50 kts. A slow increase in northward speed developed Monday (8/29) but Talas was still holding strength with 50 kt sustained winds on early Tuesday (8/30). Talas continued on a slow but steady northward track into Thursday AM (9/1) with winds still 55 kts, but building some. It is to push into Japans Southern coast due south of Tokyo Friday afternoon with winds to 60 kts. A quick fade is forecast thereafter. No swell producing fetch is forecast relative to our forecast area.
Beyond the model suggest some ill formed tropical system might develop well east of Southern Japan a week out, but of not real interest, even if it does form.
California Nearshore Forecast
On Thursday (9/1) high pressure at 1030 mbs was in control 850 nmiles west of Cape Mendocino ridging into Oregon resulting in 30 kt north winds over the North CA coast but pulled away from all of Central CA, with an eddy flow (south wind) there. Up to 30 kt north winds are forecast up north off North CA holding into early Saturday AM but pulling away from the coast more with a south wind eddy flow continuing from Pt Arena southward. Fetch to fade to 20 kts late on Saturday with calm winds over the whole coast by Sunday as low pressure builds in the Gulf of Alaska. The high is to dissipate by Monday (9/5) with light winds in control. Maybe some north winds to 15 kts to develop over Pt Conception Tuesday then reaching up to Central CA on Wednesday nearshore and chopping things up a bit. But they are to quickly move up again to Cape Mendo by Thursday and build to 20 kts with an eddy flow taking control of Central and South CA directly.
On Thursday (9/1) a ridge continued pushing south over the Central Pacific running over the northern edge of the Ross Ice Shelf. A bit of a trough was ahead of it approaching Chile with a second strong trough developing under New Zealand with 120 kts winds feeding up into it and offering some support for gale development there. Otherwise no real support for gale development was indicated. Over the next 72 hours more of the same is forecast with the ridge continuing to build south into Antarctic Ice over the Southeast Pacific and offering no support for gale development. But the trough under New Zealand is to hold if not develop more into Saturday (9/3) and then being fed by another burst of 130 kt south winds on Sunday offering more support for gale development pushing into the Central Pacific. Beyond 72 hours the trough is to dissolve but not dissipate setting up a broad area of favorable upper level winds in the Central Pacific moving east into next Thursday (9/8) with possible reinforcing winds moving into the area. This is quite a reach for the models, but something to monitor. Maybe more hope for surface level gale development in that area long-term.
At the surface on Thursday AM (9/1) high pressure at 1028 mbs was in control of the Southeast Pacific pushing all fetch in the area to the south towards Antarctica. But there seemed to be some 35-40 kt west winds trying to push east under New Zealand with generally low pressure in the area. No swell potential immediately, but it was looking better. Over the next 72 hours starting Friday (9/2) the models suggest that a gale is to build just southeast of New Zealand with a broad area of 35-40 kt southwest winds Fri-Sat (9/3) tracking northeast resulting in 32-34 ft seas near 45S 175W (shadowed by Tahiti relative to the US West Coast) with a second area south of it with 30 ft seas at 55S 177W with both pushing north in the evening with the southmost one becoming dominant with 34 ft seas at 53S 172W. Residual seas of 30 ft lingering into Sunday AM at 50S 166W. Small swell possible for Hawaii and less for the US West Coast.
Strong Storm #7S
A strong storm started developing tracking under New Zealand on Tuesday AM (8/23). Southwest winds were modeled at 55 kts with a core to 65 kts (hurricane force) aimed right up the 210 degree path to California (shadowed by Tahiti) and 30 degrees east of the 197 degree path to Hawaii. Seas were on the increase fast from 32 ft just of the northern edge of the Ross Ice Shelf. WindSat passed over the fetch and reported confirmed winds at 55+ kts. The Jason-1 satellite confirmed seas at 39.9 ft with a peak reading at 41.3 ft where the model suggested 32 ft seas. This is typical in that storms wind up faster than then GFS model typically expects and seas respond accordingly. But the Wavewatch 3 wave model, since it is fed by the GFS model, also takes longer to depict generation of high seas. A large area of 50 kt southwest winds was to be in-place in the evening with a solid core to 55 kts all aimed directly up the 208 degree path to California (and shadowed by Tahiti) and blowing 45 degrees east of the 191 degree great circle path to Hawaii. Seas were building fast to 45 ft at 57S 180W and pushing just north of flat east. WindSAT confirmed winds at 55+ kts with the Jason satellite reporting seas of 39.9 ft with a peak reading to 41.3 ft where the model reported 42 ft seas. The Jason-1 satellite maxes out at about 40 ft. Regardless, it confirmed what the model was suggesting.
By Wednesday AM (8/24) a large area of 50-55 kt southwest winds continued tracking east-northeast aimed right up the 203 degree great circle path to CA and blowing 40 degrees east of the 184 degree path to Hawaii. Seas were modeled building to a magnificent 51 ft at 55S 170W (205/207 degs NCal/SCal) and shadowed by Tahiti and 187 degs relative to HI but alot of fetch passing east of the great circle tracks heading there. WindSAT confirmed winds at 55+ kts with Jason01 reporting seas at 38.8 with a peak to 41.3 where the model was suggesting 39-40 ft seas. The model was right on track. A quick fade was forecast in the evening with a broad area of 45 kt southwest winds forecast blowing 35 degrees east of the 198 degree path to CA and effectively useless to Hawaii. Seas to be peaking at a large 52 ft at 53S 157W pushing up the 200/203 degrees path to NCal/SCal and passing out of the eastern edge of the Tahitian swell shadow. Limited sideband energy pushing up the 179 degree path to Hawaii. But WindSat confirmed winds still at 50-55 kts with Jason-1 reporting seas at 38.8 with a peak to 41.0 ft where the model suggested 40-41 ft seas. Again right on track.
This system was effectively gone by Thursday AM (8/25) but seas from previous fetch were still modeled at 47 ft at 50S 148W pushing up the 196/199 degree path to NCal/SCal and effectively unshadowed by Tahiti. Residual seas fading from 41 ft Thursday PM at 47S 139W pushing up the 191/194 degree paths to NCal/SCal.
The good news about this system is the models have done an incredibly good job of modeling this storm suggesting large if not huge seas resulting. And those winds and seas have been effectively confirmed by satellites. A total of near 36 hrs of seas in the 50 ft range have occurred, very unusual for the Southern Hemi. From a pure storm perspective, this is the strongest storm we've seen in a few years. The bad news is that the bulk of the energy is shadowed by Tahiti relative to California. And of more concern is the fetch itself was traveling far more to the east than the north, meaning only sideband energy is to reach up into Hawaii with no direct fetch pushing up in that direction. Regarding California, at least the fetch itself was pushing almost right up the great circle paths there, but the whole of the fetch was traveling almost perpendicular to the Golden State rather than following a single great circle path to the northeast. This will limit swell size, consistency, and number of waves per set. Most all direct energy is traveling up a singular great circle path towards Peru and Northern Chile. Regardless, because of the sheer size and strength of the storm, a solid very long period swell seems likely affecting the whole of the Eastern Pacific Basin. Expect initial periods in the 22-23 sec range with rideable size. This will set alot of water moving near any coast, resulting in strong currents and rips. Initial size may not be exceptional, but the power will be obvious once you enter the water. Lesser experienced surfers take note.
This swell hit Tahiti on Saturday (8/27) and as expected, size was large. But again, it was not so much the size but the period which was the problem. Estimated at 20 secs, the swell was still rather raw and not well refined. This is good in that is suggests though Tahiti was not directly on the great circle paths of this swell either, they received piles of energy. That raw character will be refined over the 3600 nmile journey north to CA. This swell also hit Hawaii as expected on Tuesday (8/30) with faces in the near double overhead range and thick.
South California: Swell to still be solid Friday AM (9/2) with pure swell 3.9 ft @ 18 secs (6.7 ft with sets to 8.5 ft) then fading some late. Solid swell of 3.5 ft @ 16 secs (5.5 ft with sets to 7.0 ft) expected through the day Sat (9/3). 14-15 sec residuals on Sunday. Swell Direction: 202 degrees with the range being 194-210 degrees
North California: Swell to be solid Friday AM (9/2) with pure swell 3.8 ft @ 18 secs (6.5 ft with sets to 8.5 ft) then fading some late as period drop towards 17 secs. Solid swell of 3.5 ft @ 16 secs (5.5 ft with sets to 7.0 ft) expected through the day Sat (9/3). 14-15 sec residuals on Sunday. Swell Direction: 199 degrees with the range being 191-208 degrees
South Pacific Animations: Jetstream - Surface Pressure/Wind - Sea Height - Surf Height
Marine weather and forecast conditions 3-10 days into the future
Beyond 72 hrs high pressure is to start dissipating in the southern Gulf late on Saturday (9/3) as low pressure starts building from the west. By Sunday (9/4) a fetch of 30 kt west winds is forecast building over a modest area Monday (9/5) resulting in 18 ft seas late at 43N 162W offering a hint of small semi-swell targeting primarily the US West Coast, but from a long ways away. By Monday this low is to coalesce into a 982 mb closed low in the Northern Gulf generating another fetch of 30 kt northwest winds reaching down to a point 1100 nmiles north-northwest of Hawaii. Seas forecast at 20-22 ft (down from previous estimates) over a small area Tuesday (9/6) at 46N 162W aimed at the Pacific Northwest down to California and with some energy at Hawaii. Possible small swell to result for the above areas if one is to believe the models.
As of Thursday (9/1) the Southern Oscillation Index (SOI) had backed off again. The daily SOI was 1.78. The 30 day average was down to 2.35 with the 90 day average up to 4.45. We've been thinking these readings are lagging indicators from the Active Phase of the MJO that traversed the Central Pacific the week of 8/13-8/20 but things should have started moving well into positive territory by now with the Inactive Phase supposedly taking control. Maybe we're getting a break.
Current wind analysis indicates very light easterly anomalies blowing over the Central equatorial Pacific just making it over the dateline, then fading to neutral from there into Indonesia. Near normal winds were over the far Eastern Pacific with no anomalies indicated. This suggests that a near neutral pattern was in effect. The models indicate that weak easterly anomalies are to hold over the West Pacific with neutral winds over the East Pacific through at least 9/9 and likely longer. This suggests that neither the Inactive nor the Active Phase of the MJO was occurring in the Pacific. And the models suggest that 2 weeks out perhaps the Active Phase of the MJO was to build over Indonesia pushing into the West Pacific, expected to slowly push east to the dateline 2 weeks out (9/15). This might help storm development in the North Pacific. Something to monitor.
Sea Surface Temp anomaly data (9/18) remains essentially unchanged and continues to indicate that cooler waters (-1 C degs) had a grip on the equator covering from a point south of Hawaii to the dateline and holding steady if not increasing their coverage slightly. The larger issue was cooler than normal waters present in feeder bands originating off the US West Coast and Chile sweeping fully to the intersection of the dateline and the equator, serving to continue the existing La Nina pattern. This is typically what is referred to as a horseshoe pattern. At least the cooler waters off the US West Coast were not expanding coverage anymore nor getting cooler as they had in late July into August. But warmer than normal waters are not building anymore over the Galapagos Islands extending west to a point south of Hawaii, and if anything are shrinking. Tongues of warmer water are positioned in the both the Northwest and Southwest Hemispheres but are trying to make inroads to the east, a bit more effective in the north and in the south, now reaching into Northern CA. But overall the big picture still looks very much like La Nina.
Below the surface on the equator things have again made another dramatic reversal starting on 8/23. Colder than normal water that had been locked all winter (2010-2011) southeast of Hawaii under the equator evaporated in late February 2011, then returned starting in early July. An impenetrable wall of colder than normal water (-3 degs C) developed in mid-July locked at 140W separating warm anomalies in the east and west, blocking any eastward progress of warmer subsurface water. On 7/21 it vaporized, with a clear subsurface path present allowing warmer subsurface water to flow eastward. But then as quickly as it redeveloped, it died with the cold pool re-emerging starting on 7/30 and built far stronger by 8/8 with waters -5 deg C below normal and holding strength and position on the equator and south of Hawaii through 8/18 and blocking the warm water flow eastward. It was down at 100 meters and was rising while gaining areal coverage. Then on 8/20 it looked a bit weaker, down to -4 degs below normal and by 8/23 vaporized with just residual -2 degree anomalies left behind. By 8/28 those anomalies were holding at -2 C and drifting east while fading, down to -1 deg on 8/30. No change thru 9/1. Regardless it is still blocking the normal warm flow to the east. This suggests the recent Active Phase MJO pulse in mid-August might have dislodged the cool pool, at least temporarily. It will likely rebuild with the return of the Inactive Phase in the West Pacific.
Ocean currents for the equatorial Pacific on 8/11 we flowing anomalously west in the far West Pacific with a small pocket of strong easterly flow at 120W. Previously we found anomalies developed flowing from west to east starting in February and were continuing through June 2011 (a little weaker towards mid-June than earlier in the month). Westerly anomalies continued in July to (thru 7/22) Easterly anomalies were isolated to a small area on the equator at 120W. We oft look at such symptoms as an El Nino indicator, but that does not seem likely given all the other data. But that coupled with a falling SOI at least it depicts a tendency towards normal conditions. Will monitor. Historically it is very unlikely if not impossible to have an El Nino form directly behind a La Nina. More typical is several years of a slow buildup before an actual El Nino event occurs. This suggest the warm waters currently pooling up off Ecuador will likely dissipate as summer progresses but at the same time, the cooler than normal horseshoe pattern over the North and South Pacific will dissipate too.
Remnants of what was a moderate plus strength La Nina Pattern (where the Inactive Phase takes control) are still evident and momentum from this La Nina event are expected to hold well into the Fall of 2011 (and likely to early 2012) in the upper atmosphere regardless of how quickly La Nina's demise occurs in the ocean. In short, it's going to be tough for surfers on west facing shores in the Eastern Pacific and Eastern Atlantic, though east facing shores of the West Pacific and Atlantic might do well from the Inactive Phase's dominance, especially in summer months. That is not to say there will be no storms, in fact, there could be short periods of intense activity when the Active Phase gets an opportunity to come to fruition, but that will be the exception rather than the rule, with the Inactive Phase trying to keep a cap on storm activity. Best bet's at this time are for an enhanced tropical season in the Atlantic (2011).
See imagery in the ENSO Powertool and more details in the El Nino update.
Beyond 72 hours no immediate swell producing fetch is forecast.
Details to follow...
External Reference Material: El Nino Southern Oscillation (ENSO), Madden Julian Oscillation (MJO), Pacific Decadal Oscillation (PDO), Southern Oscillation Index (SOI), Kelvin Wave
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Chasing the Swell has been nominated for a Webby Award. See details of this great piece of video journalism below. Some say this is the "Oscars" of online awards.One of the awards is voter based. If you have a moment, please cast your ballot by going to: http://webby.aol.com, register, then click on the "Get Voting" tab and then to the "Online Film and Video" > "Sports" category and vote for "Chasing the Swell".
Timmy Reyes - Curt Myers from Powerlines Productions found this little gem with Timmy Reyes providing a brief statement about which sites he uses for swell chasing. Thought we'd pass it on. Enjoy: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P30ZCQOsYwY
Buell Wetsuits - When surfing in Santa Cruz, we've been seeing a new wetsuit in the line-up worn by many top flight surfers. They're getting good traction and are well respected. Take a look: http://www.buellwetsuits.com/
Stormsurf Mobile App (1/9/11) We are proud to announce the official public release of our smartphone mobile app. It provides access to our most popular and commonly used products, optimized for use on the road, on the beach or anywhere you don't have a desktop or laptop. With a smart phone and signal, you will have access to our data. And we're not talking just a few teaser products - We're talking full feature wave models, weather models, real-time buoy data, manually built forecasts and hundreds of spot wave and wind forecasts enabling you to construct a surf forecast for any location on the planet, all from your cell phone and all for free. No subscription required and no hidden fees. And better yet, there's a few new things sprinkled in that are not yet available even on our full-featured web site. From your smart phones browser just navigate to: www.stormsurf.com/mobile
Mavericks Surf Shop Grand Opening - Sunday, December 19 2:00 - 6:00 p.m. rain or shine! Check out the new home of Jeff Clark's Mavericks Surf Shop, now located at 25 Johnson Pier in Pillar Point Harbor. The shop features much of Clark's surfing memorabilia, classic boards and photos, as well as an entirely new line of Jeff Clark original Mavericks clothing, accessories and surfboards. The shop has been open in the new location since December 8, and the Grand Opening party is set for this coming Sunday, just in time for Christmas. The party starts at 2 p.m., with live music, food and drinks. Jeff Clark and many Mavericks surfers will be there to meet the public. Local restaurants Ketch Joanne's and Princeton Seafood will serve up delicious food, while San Francisco Wine Trading Company is providing the beverages. The shop will be open all weekend, from 9 a.m. to 8 p.m. on Saturday and Sunday.
Stormsurf Maintenance Upgrades: Buoy 46059 and 46012 were replaced a month or so ago. Totally new buoys were installed. Here on Stormsurf we had to reset the algorithms used to calculate 'pure swell' for them. That was accomplished on 11/13. Pure swell numbers are now correct. Links: 46012, 46059
Also since we moved to the new weather model server last month we discovered that our Longrange Precipitation Models ceased to display frozen precipitation (as they once did). Some of our scripts did not get installed on the new server. That has been fixed (11/13) and now snow is again viewable worldwide. Here the new North America sample.
Chasing The Swell: Sachi Cunningham from the LA Times spent the entirety of last winter chasing surfers and swells around the North Pacific with her high def video cam. Her timing couldn't have been any better with the project exactly coinciding with the strongest El Nino in 12 years resulting in the best big wave season in a decade. And being an accomplished surfer herself helped her to bring a poignant and accurate account of the what it's like to ride big waves and the new (and some not so new) personalities that are revitalizing the sport. This is must-see material for any surfer or weather enthusiast. Check it out here: http://www.latimes.com/news/nationworld/nation/chasingtheswell/
New Weather Models With the activation of our new server we have now released a new block of weather models including North America jetstream, wind and precipitation, local coastal wind forecasts in 1 hr increments and snow and mountain wind forecasts in both 1 and 3 hours increments. The new animations can be found here (look for those items tagged with the New! icon): http://www.stormsurf.com/mdls/menu_wx.html
New Weather Model Server Stormsurf has installed another weather model production server. This has enabled us to spread the load across more servers allowing us to post both wave and weather model updates much quicker. Also we are testing new content (like North America jetstream, winds and precipitation, local wind forecasts in 1 hr increments and snow and mountain wind forecasts in both 1 and 3 hours increments). The model menus will be updated shortly with these new links.
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Surf Height-Swell Height Correlation Table